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1966 Mustang Fastback
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, so I'm going through my '66 front suspension and steering linkage, which has '79 Granada spindles and Shelby quick steer idler/pitman (manual steering). I rebuilt the UCAs per guidance from DazeCars to move the shaft forward 0.1" and installed Opentracker roller LCAs; I already have roller spring perches, the Arning drop, and adjustable strut rods. When I removed the UCAs I had a recent alignment but since my car had the driver's rear UCA bolt shortened (to clear my headers) the shop could only achieve the specs attached; I've since replaced the shortened UCA bolt so now all UCA bolts are the correct length. The shims were setup as follows:
Driver front: 9/16"
Driver rear: 6/16"
Pass front: 6/16"
Pass rear: 2/16"
The adjustable strut rods were used to pull in the additional caster.

I also already bought a Longacre 52-78274 Billet Caster / Camber Gauge with Quick Set Adapter and toe plate set to complete my own alignment.

My question is where should I start with UCA shims? I was thinking I'll match the alignment as closely as possible across both sides and I'd need 4/16" additional shim on both front bolts vs the back bolts to achieve approx +2.0* caster, then I could pull in 0.5* more with the adj. strut rods, however, not sure how many I should have on the rear bolts to start with to obtain camber of around -0.5*.

Thanks!
AlignmentSpecs.jpg
 

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I would replace all your shims as they were and just just add a 1/16" shim to both front and rear on both sides. That will give you more positive camber. That would be a good starting point then setup your alignment and go from there. Your before and after readings look a little off to me, looks like a lot of negative camber for the amount of shims you have but every car is different. The reason i am saying to only add a 1/16" shim is you may find your equipment may read a little different then the shop you used. Just make a baby step until you get your alignment all setup and see what you really have for angles. at this point you should be fairly good on positive Caster just need to increase the camber a little.
 

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I believe the shop maniual says that 1/16" shim change the camber 1/3* and 1/32" at one bolt will change caster about 1/2*. Regarding adjusting the caster also look at how the wheel sit in relation to the fender. The strut arm vill move the wheel forvard, UCA pulls it backwards.
 

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1966 Mustang Fastback
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys! So I have the UCA bolt threads to add an additional 1/16" shim at all 4 points but should I worry about exceeding 9/16" on the driver's front stack? Additionally, is having the significant difference in shims between the driver/pass sides common? I was hoping with the UCA shaft repositioning that adds caster that I might be able to reduce some of the front shims while maintaining current caster.
 

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On my 66 I did the Arning drop also offsetting the uca shaft for more caster and moving the spring perches out 1''. I used GT springs and installed adjustable strut rods, although I didn't have to use them to adjust caster. Going from memory I'm at -.8 deg. camber and +2.8 deg. caster with 1/16'' shim passenger rear bolt with 0 front, 5/16'' rear and 1/4'' front on drivers side. I did take it to an alignment shop to have it checked, but all those numbers were achieved using a simple digital angle gauge.
As stated all cars are different and it takes what it takes and I don't know anything about the geometry of Granada spindles, but could that be the difference? I removed a lot of shims with these changes.
 

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Thanks guys! So I have the UCA bolt threads to add an additional 1/16" shim at all 4 points but should I worry about exceeding 9/16" on the driver's front stack? Additionally, is having the significant difference in shims between the driver/pass sides common? I was hoping with the UCA shaft repositioning that adds caster that I might be able to reduce some of the front shims while maintaining current caster.
You can add the 1/16" to the 9/16" stack without issue. You really should just go ahead and setup the alignment and get your angles first. In theory with the offset upper arm increasing the Caster you should be able to add some shim to just the rear bolt to decrease your Caster while at the same time increasing your Camber. This will bring your shim stack thickness closer together.
 

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1966 Mustang Fastback
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Discussion Starter #7
Sounds good. Enough computer, more garage! Thanks for all the tips!
 
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