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1966 coupe and 1970 sportsroof
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not an original idea but we are now offering CNC machined drop shafts with the popular 'Shelby Drop' built in.

These shafts are machined from 4140 so are super durable. They are available as an upgrade to new orders as well as a retrofit option to existing customers.

Skip drilling holes, bolt these to the factory holes and the UCA is set to the 'Shelby Drop' specifications.

Retrofit - Street or Track 'Shelby Drop' UCA shaft


+Caster Tubular Control Arms - Street or Track Tubular +Caster Upper Arms


Front Bilstein Coilover System - Street or Track Front Bilstein Coilover System
 

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Shaun,

What does it take to retrofit these to your upper control arms?

Thanks.

Rusty
 

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1966 coupe and 1970 sportsroof
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5,384 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Shaun,

What does it take to retrofit these to your upper control arms?

Thanks.

Rusty
Should be easy. Buy the drop shafts and install them to your existing control arms. (y)
 

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Thanks! The description on your site mentions “fitting”, I thought that might be more involved.

Rusty
 

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1966 coupe and 1970 sportsroof
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5,384 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks! The description on your site mentions “fitting”, I thought that might be more involved.

Rusty
Possible 'fitting' required due to small variances in the welded frame assembly. All the shafts are CNC machined to a specific length, we hand fit each shaft, if they need to be slightly shorter, we use a disc sander with 90 degree table.
 

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Shaun - for the control arm, how ‘short’ can the heims be adjusted vs the stock arm? I have a bit of a mess going on in the shock tower, the PO added some odd bracing, that isn‘t helping my suspension geometry. The added rectangular plate is pushing the upper control arm further out. Secondly, that lower brace is preventing me from doing the 1” drop.

This wasn’t noticeable with my skinny tires, but now with 235s, I’m getting some rubbing, even with the fenders rolled flat.

I know long term, the shock tower needs to be cleaned up, but was thinking that if for now, I can run the shorter upper arm, at least I could avoid the rub, and maybe get a reasonable alignment.

It’s a 1968, running new stock upper and lower control arms, Drake perches, Drake 1” springs with half coil cut, stock strut rods. Thanks in advance!

 

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Vendor
1966 coupe and 1970 sportsroof
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5,384 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Shaun - for the control arm, how ‘short’ can the heims be adjusted vs the stock arm? I have a bit of a mess going on in the shock tower, the PO added some odd bracing, that isn‘t helping my suspension geometry. The added rectangular plate is pushing the upper control arm further out. Secondly, that lower brace is preventing me from doing the 1” drop.

This wasn’t noticeable with my skinny tires, but now with 235s, I’m getting some rubbing, even with the fenders rolled flat.

I know long term, the shock tower needs to be cleaned up, but was thinking that if for now, I can run the shorter upper arm, at least I could avoid the rub, and maybe get a reasonable alignment.

It’s a 1968, running new stock upper and lower control arms, Drake perches, Drake 1” springs with half coil cut, stock strut rods. Thanks in advance!

Well you could try our tubular upper arms, lowers and camber kit. That would give you the most adjustment range. No telling how thick that steel is though and how it may limit the range of alignment options.
 

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Thanks Shaun, understood. I‘d estimate the thickness is about 1/8” to 3/16”. Would your arms be able to be shortened this amount by adjusting the heim? Thanks!
 

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1966 coupe and 1970 sportsroof
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5,384 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks Shaun, understood. I‘d estimate the thickness is about 1/8” to 3/16”. Would your arms be able to be shortened this amount by adjusting the heim? Thanks!
Yes, you can shorten the arms 1/8" to 3/16".
 

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Thanks Shaun. I may go part by part, starting with the UCAs, see what those do first. Thanks!
 
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