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Earlier today I posted about the brakes being fixed, after 6 months of work, on my 65 FB. Every problem with the brakes was due to vendors selling me incorrect parts! Every vendor, including mustang plus, praise dyno brakes, in-line tube, and napa, sold me parts at one time or another that did not belong to this 65. Unbelievably, Kragen is the only place that got it right each time. WOW.

Anyway, the brakes are fine and I drove 8 miles to my friends to continue painting her 66 coupe. When I pulled up I noticed a burning smell, which I figured was brake fluid but did not understand how it got all the way over to the exhaust manifold on this straight 6. It wasn't brake fluid.

The intake manifold, from the carb back, had oil pooled in the "pocket" areas. To make it worse, the oil had tan parts in it and was somewhat frothy. I pulled the dipstick and sure enough, it was like looking at a rootbeer float - water and oil mixed up in the oil pan. Also when I looked at the top of the intake again, I saw the air was bubbling up from around at least one of the head bolts, and these headbolts are torqued to correct spec. There was also oil/water mixture flowing down the back of the block onto the bellhousing and even dripped down to the starter.

This car was purchsed with the prepresentation that the engine was rebuilt and the shop is reputable mustang resto shop. I have about 500 miles on the engine. IT has never overheated or even run hot.

The only thing I have done to the engine is to pull the valve cover to paint it, retorque the head bolts when the valve cover was off, and put a petronix in the dist. and new plugs in it. I did notice that the nubmer 4 plug was oil fouled when I changed it, but I figured that the rings were still seating from the rebuild. That is the area, however, where the oil is pooling in the intake and the head bolt at that location is whistling air up from underneath the head of the bolt.

What do you think is going on? Do I have a cracked block? blown cylinder head gasket (which is what I hope is all the problem is), a warped head? What would you do in my sitatuion? I figure to pull the head and take it to a machine shop to get magnifluxed for cracks and checked for warpage. If the head checks out ok, how do I check for a cracked block? What does a blown head gasket look like? Needless to say, I am bummed about this.

To top it off, the clutch cable on the green car is still not installed, I began the installation, but it appears that the holes in the pedal support to mount the Ron Morris upper bracket do not exist in the 70 pedal support. It looks like I am going to have to pull off the dash pad (PIA), and drill mounting holes for this bracket. Ron Morris has been abysmal with customer support. I've sent him several emails asking questions not covered by his instruction. He took a week to answer the first one and has not answered the second. Also, he explained that he has never installed his kit on a 68 or 70 clutch pedal and has only been told by others that it will work, with some fabrication! Yet, he advertises the kit as applicable to a 69/70. Also, he advertises the kit as a bolt up, with no drilling. This is very misleading as you might not drill, but you have to pull out the clutch pedal and cut off some brackets on the pedal and grind down the stubs. Drilling is easier! On the 70 pedal, there is no hole on the pedal to mount his bracket and you have to drill the hole for it. Of course he did not answer my email inquiry on where to drill the hole. For $235.00 the guy should return emails. I think I am going to flame him royal with Mustang Plus and see if I can get him dropped from their catalog. I know that as an attorney, I could successfully sue him for fraud and misrepresentation, based on his advertising. HOwever, since I have not paid anyone to make it work in my car and am doing that myself, I have no "damages" to recover. The dude should advertise his product as for 65-66 and can be modified to fit 69/70. On the plus side, the kit is well made and has quality parts to it.

So, now I have to take a day off of work to try to get the green 70 on the road, I've got to have at least one car running!

Man, they say don't kick a person when he's down, but sometimes that is the only time he can be reached! I think I am "down" and am being kicked here.
 

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Holy smokes, sorry about the bad luck, especially after the break with the brakes.

I know very little about the 6 cyl's but have read somewhere that the head bolts need sealant on the threads or oil can travel up & out under the bolt heads. This however would not explain the oil/water mixture.
 

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Hey Tom, I appreciate the comments. I never knew about the sealant. Wonder if the rebuilders knew about it? hmmm. It would be great if all I had to do is to replace the headgasket and put RTV on the head bolt threads. Or do you supposed another product is used as a sealant? Maybe I should call clifford tomorrow. They seem to be the 6-banger experts. I don't know how long I've been baning my head against the wall on these old stangs, but I notice that the wall has a big dent in it lately. haha.

take care,k
 

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Ken, I'm not a 6 cyl expert, I just happened across info about the bolts within the last week and it stuck in my mind because I've not heard it needed on the V8's. However, I can't recall if it was here or read in a book/manual.

Hopefully it is just the head gasket. I thought there was a diagnostic test you could perform while head's still on the engine to see if it is the gasket but I don't know its details. I may be wrong.

Sorry I can't give you more info. Good luck.
 

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what else can you do but pull the head and whenever i pull a head i'll automatically take it to the machine shop to be checked out. Even if i pulled the head off and saw a bad head gasket i'de take the head in unless i was really broke that week.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
good point about having the head checked. I'll do that no matter what else I do to the thing. I was kind of hoping it was just a bad valve cover gasket, but couldn't figure out out that would put water in the oil. hmmmm. Thanks for writing.
 
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