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What do you think would be best for my wheel wells? She is a 65 straight six and the wells are dirty but not rusty.
I plans to POWER WASH The H... out of them.
So what next for this area? I have six 4oz cans on the desk by me.
 

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I used Raptor bed liner on front wheel wells, rear wheel wells front fenders and trunk area. Seems super durable and very easy to apply with an inexpensive coating gun.

Edit, this was over epoxy primer within the re-coat window coming from bare metal

746861
 

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I'd vote for POR-15. It seems very tough. I've used it on my undercarriage, wheel wells, and inside on floor pans. Just make sure you prep the surfaces well, according to instructions. I have read of some people having it peel away in sheets because it didn't adhere well. Hasn't happened to me.
 

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I’ve read Many bad stories about POR 15 peeling off in sheets
 

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My take is POR-15 is for top coating rust which cannot be removed. No rust? Then why POR-15?

I mentioned above, I would recommend three coats of a good epoxy primer followed by undercoating. If you don't have spray equipment, you can order epoxy in spray cans from Eastwood.
 

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I did the entire underside of my car with POR-15 with great results, but that was only because I had a fair amount of surface rust that I wanted to make sure would never come back. Worth noting that you have to top coat POR-15 with paint because it is very UV sensitive and will get chalky. Even on the underside of the car, UV reflected off of the concrete will get to it eventually.

By comparison, my daughter's project car has basically no surface rust, so I'm just painting it. At least for now. I have experience spraying Raptor liner and I love it. I'll probably end up going that route, especially since it's a driver.

I'm not a fan of traditional rubberized undercoat. Just not tough enough and in some situations, it can trap moisture.
 

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I used Raptor bed liner on front wheel wells, rear wheel wells front fenders and trunk area. Seems super durable and very easy to apply with an inexpensive coating gun.

Edit, this was over epoxy primer within the re-coat window coming from bare metal

View attachment 746861
I did the same on my wheel wells. Raptor liner is great for this but you need to strip to bare metal and epoxy to do it right. If just pressure washing use undercoating.
 

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I would coat the bare metal with a 2K epoxy primer (meaning the stuff you mix with an activator/hardener). If you do not have spray equipment you can also brush it on which a lot of guys do anyways in places a spray gun can't reach. You could then top coat it with a rubberized under coating, or not. If it ever chips, just clean it thoroughly and touch it up as needed.
 

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I'm with Blake on the use of rubberized undercoating for the most part. The only places I will use it are in the wheel wells protect the steel there from rock impact chipping paint off and rusting and to make it quieter. For stuff like lizard skin I would put it inside the car.

Seen way too many northern cars ruined by various undercoating companies like Ziebart where they put a fresh layer on everything every year and all it does is trap the moisture and accelerate the rusting. You can rot the frame out on a new truck in a couple years with that junk on there. If you want a coating use something like fluid film which is Lanolin based.The side effect is your car smells like lamb chops if you get it on the exhaust.:)

To add for the engine compartment and underbody I am kind of thinking about either hotrod black or maybe a slight dark grey color.
 

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I sprayed with Rust Bullet ( unlike POR 15 it is UV stable) and then during its respray window, top coated with Raptor.
One note on the power washing: be careful about getting carried away. I have seen several vehicles that saw regular power washings and they had ball joint and shock failures due to grease being washed away. Watched a show on John Deere service center and one of the techs said they see more failures from mowers being power washed too often than from neglect.
 

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I sprayed with Rust Bullet ( unlike POR 15 it is UV stable) and then during its respray window, top coated with Raptor.
One note on the power washing: be careful about getting carried away. I have seen several vehicles that saw regular power washings and they had ball joint and shock failures due to grease being washed away. Watched a show on John Deere service center and one of the techs said they see more failures from mowers being power washed too often than from neglect.
Yeah never buy equipment that is perfectly clean. It means it was pressure washed and you now have no idea what parts are leaking and need work and like you said that water gets into everything and can ruin joints, hydraulic cylinders electrical connectors and components etc.

Another paint that is popular for under body is chassis saver from Magnet paints.
 

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Anything wrong with epoxy primer and then some good rustoleum? I really don’t like undercoat or truck bed liner. Atleast I’m scared of it.
Nothing wrong with it. If you are going to the trouble of epoxy priming then I would use a 2K topcoat like Eastwood Chassis black. Much more durable than a spray can IMO. I did this after sandblasting the entire undercarriage.
 

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Anything wrong with epoxy primer and then some good rustoleum? I really don’t like undercoat or truck bed liner. Atleast I’m scared of it.

No but if you are doing epoxy primer why not go ahead and use a 2 component topcoat. Even an implement acrylic enamel (with a hardener) from a tractor supply type store would be better and not much more expensive. Atwoods here carries quite a selection as does others. There are also synthetic enamels in the same price range. Check out these guys as they have decent prices and often have sales.

That said you can use a hardener with Rustoleum.
 

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Nothing wrong with it. If you are going to the trouble of epoxy priming then I would use a 2K topcoat like Eastwood Chassis black. Much more durable than a spray can IMO. I did this after sandblasting the entire undercarriage.
No but if you are doing epoxy primer why not go ahead and use a 2 component topcoat. Even an implement acrylic enamel (with a hardener) from a tractor supply type store would be better and not much more expensive. Atwoods here carries quite a selection as does others. There are also synthetic enamels in the same price range. Check out these guys as they have decent prices and often have sales.

That said you can use a hardener with Rustoleum.
alright thanks guys. The SPI epoxy I used to coat the media blasted body was not cheap at all. But your right might as well go all the way and do a two part for the top coat too.
 

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So this is what I did.
Examine the coating that is there and make sure that it hasn't lifted which lets moisture behind it and that causes rust. If it has flaked or lifted in some areas you will need to chip that off and grind it back around the edge of a flaked off area so that it is fairly smooth(no abrupt edges). Test the edges of a metal exposed area with a small blade to make sure that what is still stuck on there is really stuck.

If you have new panels that haven't been coated, I took those to bare metal and sprayed 3 good coats of epoxy followed by a urethane top coat. Once it cured I then moved on to the rubberized undercoat. I don't believe that epoxy and paint is enough protection for areas where the tires are flinging up rocks.

Treat the rusted areas with the rust treatment you like to use.

After this, I use 3M professional grade rubberized undercoat and put 3 or 4 coats on. I like this because of the rubberized additive which gives it some build up and makes it more resistant to rock impacts. This stuff is hard to get off so tape your quarter really well to mask off where you do not want it to get. Warning, it isn't cheap but it does come in a somewhat generous spray can. Afterwards at any time, you can also touch it up if needed.




I have also chosen lizzard skin to use for certain areas or zones that I think need something more than just paint. The whole rest of my engine bay and chassis was taken to metal, epoxy primed and sprayed with a urethane single stage satin black.
 

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If you use POR15 on bare metal, make sure you use the metal prep and follow directions .
 

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Anything wrong with epoxy primer and then some good rustoleum? I really don’t like undercoat or truck bed liner. Atleast I’m scared of it.
You can get the raptor liner in spray cans. My Wife used her spray gun when we did my trunk but my rear wheel wells were done with the spray can raptor liner. Here are the pics of my trunk
 

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You can get the raptor liner in spray cans. My Wife used her spray gun when we did my trunk but my rear wheel wells were done with the spray can raptor liner. Here are the pics of my trunk
no I can spray. Heck iv sprayed my whole car with an HVLP. I just have a thing against the rubberized coatings.
All coatings will fail at some point. They just will. And when rubberized coating fails it fails way worse than paint and it sucks to get off. Now it’s one things if you take your car out on weekends but for a daily I need paint.
 
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