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Hello,

I'm thinking of taking on an underdash refurb on my 65. I want to replace the wiring harness, fuse box and get the heater working. I'm sure there will be a number of other 'while your at its'. A couple I can think of that may be much easier to do with the dash apart are the wiper motors and a clutch pedal assembly with bearings instead of bushings.

I wanted to get an idea of what's involved from anyone who has done this, especially the wiring harness? Any hints and tips?

Also any other items that would be worth replacing/refurbing while the dash is apart?

Thanks for any help,
Kevin
 

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replacing the wire harness is easy. just make sure you label everything as you remove it. because it will save you alot of time when you install the new one.
good luck
 

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The wiring harness is not hard to replace with the dash and components opened up; but keep track of the manner in which the harness is routed and the placement of the clips and hold downs. If you don't already have it, a good wiring diagram manual is the best investment. I used the "PRO Products" 1966 wiring book (officially licensed by Ford) and found them complete and easy to read. It displays the connections and routings. I had nothing to go on as the old harness had previously been removed; and I had no problem installing the new one using the book. Of course, this only applies if you are installing an original harness or a reproduction copy. The wires should be proper length, color coded, and have mating connectors that practically make it fool proof to install. The driver's fresh air vent, heater internals/cables, clutch/brake pedal bushings, firewall insulation, and any suspect switch gear are all candidates for reconditioning while you're in there.
 

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It would be a good time to replace a worn out steering sector box. The steering column tube will have to be removed to gain access to the pedal support bracket. With the long steering shaft out of the way it will provode easier acess to the wiring and the pedal support removal and installation.

The dash pod should also be rebuilt while it is out. Remember to label each item.

If your car has a lot of miles replacement of the ignition switch and light switch might be in order.

Scott Drake makes a needle bearing bushing kit to replace the pot metal bushings in the pedal support. The old bushings are easy to remove, with the support out of the car, be heating them with a propane torch. They soften and can be knocked out with a punch.

If the underdash wiring has not been cut and spliced it can be easly cleaned with soapy water and lacquer thinner to new appearance, of course when it is out of the car.

Good luck.
Mark Mosteller
Garden Grove, CA
 

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You must weigh less than 100 lbs and really need a three handed monkey to do this if the int. is in the car.Go slow,use a GOOD wiring daigram and you will have no problems.Good luck.SCOTT
 

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I've done my own '65 and several cars for friends. Removing the harness is easy with one exception. The firewall plugs are set into the sheet metal with a spring clip. There are two tangs on each side of the plug. The trick is to depress the tangs (engine side of firewall) to release each plug. Ford put the lighting harness in a horrible spot over next to the left apron and behind the master cylinder and lines. Tough to get at without removing the master cylinder and even tougher to release the tangs on the left side of the plug. Anyway once you depress these tangs the plug releases from the firewall and can be peeled back from under the dash.
 

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Regarding removing the firewall mounted connectors. As mentioned, the connector next to the fender apron is the hardest to get out. I found the easiest method is to use a small diameter long shank flat blade screw driver and push in the tabs which face the fender apron first.

Then push the connector towards the fender apron once the tabs are through the hole and while exerting pressure, push the other two tabs.

Oh yes, Unplug the connectors first!

Not too hard on the '65s but then again, I never had to do one with a power booster.

Regards,

Dean T
 
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