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Well all, just a little update here from the land of two broken down mustangs. First, as for the 65 FB, at a minimum I have a bad head gasket. I checked the 65 service manual and Ford says that the threads on the number 1 and number 6 head bolts on the rights side of the engine (I6)are to be treated with a water resistant sealer. I have air/fluid/water coming up the number 6 headbolt and pooling in the intake.

I figure the engine rebuilder did not put sealant on the threads, allowing water to work its way up the bolt. In so doing, it heated, turned to steam, and blew out the head gasket, which allowed water to get in the cylinders and down into the crankcase. One other symptom was that when I removed the radiator cap I saw no water, only gobs and gobs of foam! It looked like a head of beer down in the radiator.

Also, the service manual said to put gasket sealer on both sides of the head gasket for a 170 straight 6, but do not use any gasket sealer on the 200 straight 6. I figure the rebuild shop used gasket sealer. Anyway, I just hope that the head is not damaged from all of this. I figure the next step is to pull the head, check it for warpage and cracks. Then, I'll change the head gasket and reinstall the head, putting sealant on all the bolts on the right side of the engine, just for grins and chuckles. I'll use blue rtv on the threads, then torque em down in 3 stages. I hope felpro makes a head gasket.

I will also change the valve cover gasket to a cork gasket instead of the rubber. I guess I should pull the pan and clean out the gunk also, changing the gasket at the same time. Is there anything else I should do to take care of the water-in-the-oil problem, in terms of cleaning up the mess already in the engine? Should I add some STP or some product to the next batch of oil? Should I run

On the good news front, since retorqueing the trans pan bolts, I no longer have the bad trans. fluid leak. Nice and dry under the car. I figure the seals were kind of dry and I needed to run the car for abit to make them pliable again, plus tightening the pan bolts.

As for the 70, this frosts my wheaties! I talked to someone at the Mustang Plus car show earlier this summer who was extolling the virtues of the Ron Morris clutch kit. It think he worked with Ron Morris. Anyway, I checked his webpage and sure enough, he sold a kit for a 65-70 cable clutch linkage. Oh goody. I plunked down my $249 plus shipping and a short time later the kit arrived.

It is a well made kit, nicely packaged, the parts of obvious quality. The downside is that this kit WILL NOT WORK ON A 70. NO way, shape for form. First, the 70 clutch pedal has not hole in it for mounting the bracket. OK, I drilled on. The major problem is that the 70 pedal support/pedal carrier will not allow mounting of the pedal carrier/support bracket supplied by Ron Morris. There is not a flat surface large enough to take one side of the bracket, and the other side of the bracket does not line up with the clutch pedal bracket, even if you could mount it. IN addition, the lower dash steering column recess interferes with the bracket. Finally, if you try to relocate the bracket where it might conceivably work, it is directly across the routing of the air conditioning ducting.

This kit is advertised as a bolt-up no drilling kit. HA. I pulled my dash pad, instrument clusters, partially dropped the steering column, disconnected the speedo cable, moved the wiring harness out of the way, removed the a/c ducting, just to get access to the pedal support. It don't work folks.

I sent an email to Ron Morris (who takes quite a while to reply, still waiting for a reply to my last one). I will call Ron MOrris performance and try to send the product back for a refund. I think he should change his advertising cause this won't work past 1968.

I am going back to the D.B. Performance Engineering cable, even though it was his that broke. At least I know that it will work for a while. When time permits, I'll install a hydraulic clutch linkage kit and eliminate the problem for good. In the meantime, the green car has been down for 6 weeks, the 65 FB will be down for at least a couple of weeks. I'm driving a rental! Tomorrow I go look at a mercedes 240D which I can pick up for around $2,500. I've got to be able to get to work and to chase around for parts. Afterall, these broken down mustangs are located about 11 miles from my house. Got to get there to work on them. sometimes I feel like there is no one left who knows who to build parts or make correct installations, or even sell the rights parts for the right car. Never had this problem in Detroit. Maybe it's just Sacramento.

I'll post later on how Ron Morris reacts to my phone call. At this point I am out 2 days of car rental, $250 for his kit, plus 10 hours of my time, plus whatever it is going to take for me to get the car back together. ouch!

later dudes. Perhaps I'm soaking up all the bad karma so all of your cars will run well and get repaired in mere minutes, done right the first time. ahhaa.
 

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You don't want to use Blue RTV on the bolts. Instead use something like "Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant". Sold at most any autoparts store. Just coat the bolt very lightly half the length of the threads.
 
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