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Discussion Starter #1
I got the car cranked by shorting out the starter solenoid. She fired up on the first try (she is apparently very partial to warm weather) and I drove her home. With the selector in the "correct" position (the middle drive position since it's an early C4) the tranny didn't want to shift unless I bumped the shifter up toward the top drive position. Finally I just slipped it in the top position and drove the rest of the way home with no problems. The shifts were good and crisp. I drove some at 30-40 mph and some up to 70 mph with no problems. I made a left at a stop sign and nailed the gas, kicking the car sideways. All in all, everything seemed pretty normal. I got it home, tried to put it in park (with no luck as before). My driveway is on a slight incline and the car didn't roll backwards while cranked. The second I cut the car off it began rolling backwards although still in drive. I chocked the wheels and came in for the night. If there were clutch pack problems, would the car perform almost normally in drive? I can get my usual mechanic look at it and fix whatever is wrong (assuming he doesn't have to drop the tranny) for less than $100, so I may give that a shot. When I was adjusting the front (intermediate) band, I heard a noise like something in a bind and then coming loose. I can't help but wonder if something came loose and is jammed in the shifter assembly at the valvebody. I didnt' have the problem after three test drives this weekend, but wouldn't you know it would happen the first day back to work. DOH! Anyway, what do you guys suggest? Should I try to tackle it myself, or does it sound serious enough to trust to the experts? Thanks! Shane

'65 289 4V Edelbrock 1405 600CFM C-4 yada yada yada
 

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Once the engine shuts off, the trans loses hydraulic pressure and the clutches unlock, even if still in gear, and the trans goes into "neutral"...

I agree with James that the shifter linkage needs a closer look...

Disconnect it at the trans and try to operate the shift lever on the trans manually with the car up on jack stands...

It's possible that the internal parking pawl linkage or pawl has failed or come loose...

If the car shifted normally going down the road, I'd discount clutches, bands and the rear sprag....

Describe exactly when during the band adjustment you heard the noise ......

How is your 1-2 shift? Or, are you getting one since you can't get into the middle D position...?

If it appears the problem is internal, and you don't feel comfortable with rummaging around in there, best leave it to a pro....

Pat
http://www.jps.net/binay/webdocs/strtmstng002_sml.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I can get the 1-2 shift if I put the selector in the middle drive position then push the selector slightly toward the top position when time to shift. There have been times before all of this that I had to do that, especially if I had put it in the lowest position then shifted from there. It seemed like after I did that I'd have to "nudge" the shifter to get the next shift until I moved the selector to park and back to the middle drive position, then everything would be fine (no nudging for the 1-2 shift).

With the band... I had tightened the band adjusting nut tightening it but couldn't get 10 ft/lbs (the reading was always lower...and the outer jam nut was moving with the adjusting nut) so I removed the outer jam nut. Then, while loosening the band adjusting nut I heard a slight pop, like something had been tight then relaxed. I loosened the nut, then tightened to get the 10 ft/lbs. Then I backed off 1.5 turns and held the nut in place with a wrench, then I tightened the jam nut without allowing the adjusting nut to move.

Thanks for the help! :)

'65 289 4V Edelbrock 1405 600CFM C-4 yada yada yada
 

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Sounds like it was just the band relaxing against its link tab (looks like a flat bar with a dimple on one side for the adjuster to fit into and a slot on the other to fit into a tang on the band....

Since the band works well (you're getting a good 1-2), I'd discount the noise...

Normally, when adjusting bands, you back off the adjuster locknut around 3-4 turns while holding the adjuster stud with a wrench or socket and then proceed with the adjustment procedure...

I usually give the adjuster a moderate pull with a short end wrench in lieu of the 10 lb ft spec, then back it off 1.5 turns and then tightening the locknut while holding the adjuster still...
I'm somewhat concerned that you had difficulty achieving the correct torque on your first attempt...you shouldn't need to turn the adjuster more than 2-3 turns to get the needed torque (depends on the band wear)...
How many turns do you recall turning the adjuster in to achieve the correct setting?

This too will pass....*G*

Pat
http://www.jps.net/binay/webdocs/strtmstng002_sml.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm not sure how many rounds it was turned, but I know that initially there weren't any of the adjusting nut threads showing outside the lock nut, but before I removed the lock nut there were several rounds of threads showing. Now I think there are about two rounds of threads showing. I got to thinking about the bent shifter last night, and that very well could have happened when I changed the motor mounts this weekend. I was very careful not to jack the engine up any more than I had to, but I guess it could have been raised enough (along with the tranny) to bend something. I drove the car three times after changing the motor mounts and didn't have any problems. Oh well, I'll get under there sometime this week and see what's going on. In the meantime, I guess I'll drive my "backup" vehicle ('98 F-150). Thanks for the help :)

'65 289 4V Edelbrock 1405 600CFM C-4 yada yada yada
 
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