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Discussion Starter #1
I finally got the tranny buttoned back up. As it turns out, I had actually gotten the shifter peg into the slot on the valve body correctly, but the arm the peg is on was bent! As a result, it just popped out of the slot when I moved the shifter. Evidently, when the intermediate band strut broke and a piece jammed in there leaving the tranny in drive all the time by making me unable to move the shifter, it also managed to bend the arm. Well, I gently pried on the thing with a screwdriver and got things lined back up. Pan went on fine thanks to the cork and sealer, with no leaks. Now the only problem I have is that all positions are about 1/2 notch to far forward. For example, reverse is mid-way between P and R. Normal Drive is half way between the normal notch and the notch that starts you out in second. Can anybody give me some guidance on how to adjust this, and will it hurt to drive the car in this condition in the mean time till I get it fixed? Seems like I remember there being a pinch nut or something you had to adjust (this was mentioned in the instructions for the shift kit I used a few months back... It'd be nice if I still had them (DOH)). Anyway, some of you may recall that I had posted that the car/tranny seemed to be fighting itself somewhat at 30-40 mph sustained speeds. Now this is no longer the case, but the shifts are still fairly crisp. Evidently I got lucky adjusting the intermediate band this time :) On a different note, I finally bought a Flamethrower coil. Will it hurt to run the new coil with the stock plug gap? I'd like to get the coil on, then widen the spark plug gap when I have time and the headers are cool (from .34 to .44, IIRC). I also got an export brace that I will be putting on sometime. Any advice on that would be appreciated as well. Thanks for the help and have a great weekend :)

'65 289 4V Edelbrock 1405 600CFM C-4 yada yada yada
 
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As far as the tranny goes, you should be able to adjust it without tearing anything apart. The shift rod that connects the shifter to the tranny has a slotted hole on the shifter end. A nut is used to hold a pin in place that connects to the shifter. Put the tranny in park, loosen the nut, put the shifter in park, and tighten the nut. Go through the gears, and make sure they line up. If not, make adjustments as necessary. You can drive in the meantime.

In regards to the coil, you'll be fine, just re-gap when you have a chance.


-Brian

66restomod's Home Page
[color:red]Updated: 4/13/2001</font color=red>
"In preparing for battle I have always found that plans are useless, but planning is indispensable."-Eisenhower
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I went ahead and put the Flamethrower on. I figured that if you guys said it'd hurt something I'd wait to drive it until I re-gapped the plugs. Was that the correct figure (.044)? I couldn't remember if stock was .034 or .044. Will I need to readjust my timing now that the new coil is on? What about after gapping the plugs? Intuitively I'd assume not, but I'd rather ask ;) Thanks for the help!

'65 289 4V Edelbrock 1405 600CFM C-4 yada yada yada
 
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I forget what the stock figure is off hand, but yeah, you can go about .008" - .010" bigger. As far as the timing, you could probably set it a little more aggressively with the fatter spark, but I'd tend to go with the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" routine on that.


-Brian

66restomod's Home Page
[color:red]Updated: 4/13/2001</font color=red>
"In preparing for battle I have always found that plans are useless, but planning is indispensable."-Eisenhower
 
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