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Discussion Starter #21
Well then, it wouldn't be "original" then, would it?

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
Modified as in boxing them and shortening them just like they did on the original cars.
 

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Modified as in boxing them and shortening them just like they did on the original cars.
So you can shorten and box them, and they're considered "as delivered in 1968 specs", but you can't use a 3 bolt ball joint??? Really? Sounds like something I want to be a part of.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
So you can shorten and box them, and they're considered "as delivered in 1968 specs", but you can't use a 3 bolt ball joint??? Really? Sounds like something I want to be a part of.
That’s how they built race cars in the trans am series to get around the rules. They call them cheater arms. Later on they could have been replaced by the 3 bolt but the bolt positions are harder to change on those.
 

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Modified as in boxing them and shortening them just like they did on the original cars.
The only thing that's actually legal is strengthening them. Shortening them to alter
the camber curve or changing the BJ angle doesn't really fall into that category.
We did a few sets of those while I was at Global. Very pricey.
All the truly fast cars were all highly illegal by the rulebook.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 

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Discussion Starter #25
The only thing that's actually legal is strengthening them. Shortening them to alter
the camber curve or changing the BJ angle doesn't really fall into that category.
We did a few sets of those while I was at Global. Very pricey.
All the truly fast cars were all highly illegal by the rulebook.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
Correct. And this car will be too LOL there was one race where they were coming towards the end and the car was underweight and they knew they were going to win so when they went to refuel they dumped a bunch of lead shot into the tank. Those were definitely the good all days of racing haha
 

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Yea, I "strengthened" mine also but you know, when they cooled down the metal shrunk exactly a half inch shorter - damdest thing I ever saw but hey they still fit and after a good paint job, you could never tell. The other thing I noticed was that when they cooled down they also had 15 degrees of ball joint clearance which happens (as it turns out coincidentally) to mean I don't need a negative wedge kit to Arning drop more agressively. I only wish they had cooled with a couple of degrees of castor built in...

I did spend a lot of time truly beefing up the ball joint mount as GT likes to post a fail on a stock UCA. I made absolutely sure mine will NEVER fail in that mode.

If I was to do it again, I think I would "strengthen" it to try to get some castor built in...

Good luck with your "strengthening" - it makes a big difference in bite on an hard corner.
 

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Yeah I’m hoping someone on here has a set they can sell me. Because I’m going to modify them anyway so they don’t have to be like super clean.
I'm confused. If you're going to modify them, why do you care if the they are the 3-bolt or 4-bolt?

Ford switched to the 3-bolt type in 1970. These were used on all sorts of Ford cars, Mustang, Falcon, Fairlane, Cougar, Maverick, Granada… That's why the 3-bolt is so cheap. They were made by the millions. Since the geometry was the same as the 67-69, the 1970-up item was the Service Replacement from Ford.

An Important Note: The top of the housing at the ball joint was altered when they made the change, which is why the rubber stop was changed in 1970. If you use the 3-bolt arms on your 67-69 car, you need the matching rubber bumper. The 70-up rubber bumper should also be used if you do the Arning/Shelby "drop" on your 65-66.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Yea, I "strengthened" mine also but you know, when they cooled down the metal shrunk exactly a half inch shorter - damdest thing I ever saw but hey they still fit and after a good paint job, you could never tell. The other thing I noticed was that when they cooled down they also had 15 degrees of ball joint clearance which happens (as it turns out coincidentally) to mean I don't need a negative wedge kit to Arning drop more agressively. I only wish they had cooled with a couple of degrees of castor built in...

I did spend a lot of time truly beefing up the ball joint mount as GT likes to post a fail on a stock UCA. I made absolutely sure mine will NEVER fail in that mode.

If I was to do it again, I think I would "strengthen" it to try to get some castor built in...

Good luck with your "strengthening" - it makes a big difference in bite on an hard corner.
What a interesting coincidence 😂 haha. Appreciate the feedback.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I'm confused. If you're going to modify them, why do you care if the they are the 3-bolt or 4-bolt?

Ford switched to the 3-bolt type in 1970. These were used on all sorts of Ford cars, Mustang, Falcon, Fairlane, Cougar, Maverick, Granada… That's why the 3-bolt is so cheap. They were made by the millions. Since the geometry was the same as the 67-69, the 1970-up item was the Service Replacement from Ford.

An Important Note: The top of the housing at the ball joint was altered when they made the change, which is why the rubber stop was changed in 1970. If you use the 3-bolt arms on your 67-69 car, you need the matching rubber bumper. The 70-up rubber bumper should also be used if you do the Arning/Shelby "drop" on your 65-66.
Correct. I’m probably being overly anal and in my opinion from experience it’s easier to move the ball joint inward towards the engine bay on the 4 bolt because that third bolt really has nowhere to go on the three bolt arms.
 

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I'm confused. If you're going to modify them, why do you care if the they are the 3-bolt or 4-bolt?

Ford switched to the 3-bolt type in 1970. These were used on all sorts of Ford cars, Mustang, Falcon, Fairlane, Cougar, Maverick, Granada… That's why the 3-bolt is so cheap. They were made by the millions. Since the geometry was the same as the 67-69, the 1970-up item was the Service Replacement from Ford.

An Important Note: The top of the housing at the ball joint was altered when they made the change, which is why the rubber stop was changed in 1970. If you use the 3-bolt arms on your 67-69 car, you need the matching rubber bumper. The 70-up rubber bumper should also be used if you do the Arning/Shelby "drop" on your 65-66.
Is the 70 bumper shorter than the 65?
 

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I'm not sure what other options you'd have? Maybe finding some originals at a junkyard, eBay or Craigslist? It sucks spending $300 for the pair but that's definitely better than spending over $500 for the pair. Maybe someone on here has some used ones they'd sell you?
I may have thrown some of those away. :oops:
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Got a set of four bolts in hand finally. Appreciate everybody’s help and input
 

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I ended up changing to the 3 bolt ball joint. I was thinking of slicing off the end of the original big shaft nut and welding it onto my smaller shaft nut to finish off the stealth, but did not go that far. These are John's DYI Upper and Lower kits.

739835
739836
739837
739838
739839
 

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