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V8 289 Build

2679 Views 30 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  66_72stanger
What would be the best build for a 66 289. I got my hands on a 289 and want to see what can I do with it and add to it. It has already been rebuilt, but lacks parts such as an intake manifold, carb, etc. I want to be able to use the most I can from what the rebuilt block came with, but I am not sure how to tell whether it is good or cheap garbage. My goal is to utilize the most power for the best price. I have plans on dropping this in a I6 64.5 and already know that I will have to change a lot of parts in order to even get a 289 to work aand not destroy itself. What would be the best build for the 289 for the price and performance. In this scenario, I will just say no budget just utilizing the best performance for price. I also have plans of swapping in a manual trans if that has anything to add. Please help me so I can decide how to budget and move money around to get this project off the ground. :)
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Get a list of the parts used, particularly the camshaft profile and valvetrain components and how far over standard the bore is cut and crank etc are turned. Check cam and crank end play and the torque of each bolt. Inspect the oil pump, timing components, and choose your intake and carb based on the camshaft that you ultimately use and the intended use of the car. Have fun !!
 
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A problem with the 289 with it's large bore and short stroke is building compression. With the big bore it means the combination chamber has to be or going to be on the large size. Once you start stacking up variances it's very easy to loose compression. My feeling is anything you can do to improve cylinder head flow is very important no matter what. It fills the cylinders better and even with lower compression it's a huge help. With high compression and poor flow you're just compressing a lot of nothing. That's just my $.02. Yes do what you can to build compression but I say focus of cylinder head flow, cam and ignition curve. @22GT as others said had a good post on a friend's 289 with some basic not break the bank cylinder head work and mild cam that made very good power.
 

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Doing one right now as we speak. Low mileage block .030" over, stock deck, just a polish on the original crank. Stock rods on Silv-O-Lite 3101HC hypereutectic pistons with coated skirts and Hastings ring pack. Skip White NKOB aluminum heads in 60cc, roller link-bar lifters and a custom ground roller cam.

Quench distance of .041" using a .030" compressed thickness Cometic MLS head gasket and static CR of 9.36:1. 3101HC has a valve relief volume of 3cc and a compression height of 1.605". We wanted to make this motor as detonation resistant as possible and able to run on 87 octane.

Build will be running a Performer RPM intake. Unsure right now on the carburetion... Summit M2008 definitely "in the mix". Exploring some Tri-Y's that will clear the Borgeson box and Z-bar. Recommending a DurasparkII distributor triggering a Mopar ECU, as always. Building for low-end snap... the 289 is by far not a torque monster but looking for a nice, flat curve.
 

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A problem with the 289 with it's large bore and short stroke is building compression. With the big bore it means the combination chamber has to be or going to be on the large size. Once you start stacking up variances it's very easy to loose compression. My feeling is anything you can do to improve cylinder head flow is very important no matter what. It fills the cylinders better and even with lower compression it's a huge help. With high compression and poor flow you're just compressing a lot of nothing. That's just my $.02. Yes do what you can to build compression but I say focus of cylinder head flow, cam and ignition curve. @22GT as others said had a good post on a friend's 289 with some basic not break the bank cylinder head work and mild cam that made very good power.
i disagree with you on the bolded. its very easy to build compression with a 289, and due to the better rod/stroke ratio, its easier to hold that compression over a 302.

that said, OP the very first thing you need to do is sit down and decide what you want from this engine. what rpm range will the engine spend 80% of its time in. and then you can select parts and build accordingly.
 

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1964.5 Mustang I6 170 C4 Transmisson
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i disagree with you on the bolded. its very easy to build compression with a 289, and due to the better rod/stroke ratio, its easier to hold that compression over a 302.

that said, OP the very first thing you need to do is sit down and decide what you want from this engine. what rpm range will the engine spend 80% of its time in. and then you can select parts and build accordingly.
I mean I would like it to be in the higher end of the RPM range as I personally wanna be able to hear it as I run it and not really concerned with it being too quiet
 

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Ahh, the 289...I have been super pleased with a .460/.472 cam that I chose from P.A.W. back in 1993. Nice and torquey for cruising with a C4, goose it and it will chirp the tires on the downshift and again on the upshift, stand on it and it will shift into second about 50 and into third about 82, and at part throttle it's super happy and just waking up at 2700-ish and 70 mph. Plenty more pedal. I have NO IDEA what top speed on the car is but I did take it to 140 once a LONG TIME AGO. Brian had a nice 90 GT with some mods and the old 289 got respect. Sorry, Mom, if you ever read this.
 
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22gt's specs are basically a shelby gt-350 engine. Stock iron heads with screw in rock studs, performer rpm or cobra intake, 600 carb. The main thing is a replica k code cam. They have them with solid or hydraulic lifters. At summit racing it will say nolstalgia cam, 271hp or hi po 289 with lift about .477 and dur at .050 about 228 deg. A hydraulic version is c90z-6250-c. Compression would need to be 10.25/1 or a little less. And distributor curved to boss 302 spec. I have been itching to build one myself.
 

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You really need to have an idea of what the budget will be.
Low budget, which is what comes to mind when someone say they have no budget, would be something like a Performer RPM, a Summit carb and headers assuming your bottom end is in good shape. With gaskets and hardware your closing in on $1000. You can certainly go cheaper with used parts, but this much will get you a fun package.
If you have no budget because you can spend whatever it takes, Then your going to start at $3000 and go up from there with new pistons, cam, lifters, rockers, misc. hardware, machine work to the heads and bottom end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You really need to have an idea of what the budget will be.
Low budget, which is what comes to mind when someone say they have no budget, would be something like a Performer RPM, a Summit carb and headers assuming your bottom end is in good shape. With gaskets and hardware your closing in on $1000. You can certainly go cheaper with used parts, but this much will get you a fun package.
If you have no budget because you can spend whatever it takes, Then your going to start at $3000 and go up from there with new pistons, cam, lifters, rockers, misc. hardware, machine work to the heads and bottom end.
Honestly, a budget for me would have to be in the 1000 area maybe pushing it to 1500. I tore it town and a bit and saw that the cylinders look clean and new, so do the heads. I will need a 4bbl intake though. I might be able to upload pictures of what I have uncovered .
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I honestly, do not know how to tell what I have as I am really new to this and would want to know more. I tore town a bit of the block, but I still have no clue what type of parts I have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
22gt's specs are basically a shelby gt-350 engine. Stock iron heads with screw in rock studs, performer rpm or cobra intake, 600 carb. The main thing is a replica k code cam. They have them with solid or hydraulic lifters. At summit racing it will say nolstalgia cam, 271hp or hi po 289 with lift about .477 and dur at .050 about 228 deg. A hydraulic version is c90z-6250-c. Compression would need to be 10.25/1 or a little less. And distributor curved to boss 302 spec. I have been itching to build one myself.
He was telling me about this and I have been looking into, I think this doesn't seem too bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Adding on to this I know I will need a new front end, a new transmission, and a new rear end. But since I am cheap I plan to get these parts from other cars. I have heard that you can a ford explorer rear end 8.8 and stuff like that. But there is too much for me to figure out. I do not know where to start because I want to make a parts list so I can total cost. This would be a 1964.5 170 to v8 289 conversion in the end.
 

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I wouldn't want to know the total cost. The way I look at it, you can spend a certain amount on the car with each paycheck. You can take your time buying one piece at a time and spend time refurbishing each one. When I was younger, me and my friends would do the engine in stages. We would drive it every day and add the carb and intake, later the dual exhaust, then the headers, then ignition, then the cam, pistons and associated machine work.
 

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I would do V8 undercarriage brakes, suspension, rear end first before even thinking of building an engine.

A V8 in a six cylinder car is dangerous. Spindles could break, springs too weak, read end blows outs, can't stop adequately.
 
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Agree. Order of operations for me is generally Suspension / Brakes / Drivetrain / Pretty stuff. I have always said FIRST it must STOP, or you'll be dead and the rest will not matter. And if the suspension is bad enough, 'stopping' can cause either ditch cleaning or ricochet off of oncoming traffic which is why it is first in my general list. Suspension and brakes are done concurrently if they need attention.
 
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