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I'm starting to look at new manifolds if need be. I see Summit has one for 200 CID 6 cyl but the years of application listed are for 1964-67. Is the 68 manifold different?
Yes, the 68-73 manifold has a larger outlet, and the exhaust system was a larger diameter.
 

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Why do you think you need a new manifold? If in doubt about the "flatness" of the sealing surfaces just run it down to your machine shop and have them surface the flanges.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Why do you think you need a new manifold? If in doubt about the "flatness" of the sealing surfaces just run it down to your machine shop and have them surface the flanges.
Once I get it off I plan to do that unless it has major cracks. I'm just looking at options ahead of time.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #24
How good are those bolt extractor sockets? I've been watching uTubes on them. I'm going to try to wire wheel the heads I can get to today and see if I can't get a 1/2 inch 6 point on them but if not maybe I'll try those extractors.
 

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Don't be afraid to hammer a socket onto the bolt head. Usually a 12 point works best for this. Maybe a 13mm 12 point would get you there. Go down to your local hardware or home improvement store and pick up a couple varieties of socket around that range. I find that sometimes one socket will work, but the identical size in another brand won't. Once you have the bolt out, you can clamp it in a vice and lever the socket off.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Well it's off. 5 Bolts broke off. Three I think are long enough to get out but one is only about 1/8 inch out and one is flush. I'll try an easy out with those. Worse case scenario I'll have to drill and tap. What is best way to get the studs out that stick out a bit? One is 2 inches, one is 3/4 inch, and one is about 1/4 inch out. I've doped them all up with more Liquid Wrench now that I can get to them better.

The manifold looks pretty good still but probably will need resurfacing and truing up.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
It looks like those exhaust manifold bolts are 3/16 diameter. What size easy-out should I plan to use? The Irwin #1 uses a 5/64 drill bit. Is that too small?
 

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Well it's off. 5 Bolts broke off. Three I think are long enough to get out but one is only about 1/8 inch out and one is flush. I'll try an easy out with those. Worse case scenario I'll have to drill and tap. What is best way to get the studs out that stick out a bit? One is 2 inches, one is 3/4 inch, and one is about 1/4 inch out. I've doped them all up with more Liquid Wrench now that I can get to them better.

The manifold looks pretty good still but probably will need resurfacing and truing up.
On the short studs..and the flush one... weld a nut on to what remains. Use a wrench to spin out.
 

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It looks like those exhaust manifold bolts are 3/16 diameter. What size easy-out should I plan to use? The Irwin #1 uses a 5/64 drill bit. Is that too small?
Yes. I would use a #2 spiral extractor (7/32" bit). Frankly, I'd try and avoid using a screw extractor at all.... if you break one of THOSE off you're really (pardon the pun) screwed.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I'm afraid of doing damage to the head if I try to weld a nut on. Especially to the ones that are flush. I don't see how to do that and I expect my weld wouldn't hold anyway. I have broken off an easy-out before and that is a pain. I'm finding the ones long enough to grab with a pipe wrench are still not coming out easily. I haven't put enough pressure on it yet to snap off the remaining bolt. I keep dowsing them in penetrating oil and maybe I'll try heat next.

Once I'm ready to reassemble, can I use grade 5 bolts from the hardware store or should I stick with a set of manifold bolts? I don't think the ones from CJ in this pic are exactly like I need. The six 1 inch ones are correct but I have five 2 1/2 but the ones in this pic look like three 1 3/4? and 2 odd longer ones. I'm sure those are for some accessory I don't have.
 

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You weld through the center of the nut. You can also weld through the center of a large fender washer, then weld a nut to the fender washer.

I'd use the proper manifold bolts vs. trying to match up what would end up as a bolt too short or too long for the application. Make sure you chase the threads and clean out the holes of any debris before putting new bolts in.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I just went to the machine shop and he said my manifold is beyond repair. The end that had the leak has burned the metal away to the point he said he would not be able to machine it off enough. So I guess I'm in the market for a new one. Oh well that will give me time to play with getting the broken bolts out. Fortunately this is my wife's car and she seldom drives it.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I'm going to try welding nuts on. At least onto the shot stubs sticking out. Do I need to do anything else like remove the carburetor or make sure there is no fuel close by?

And if I try to weld onto the flush studs, how do I hold the nut or washer on there? Magnet? I don't see any way to clamp it down.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Welding nuts on was a bust. I could not get the stud to melt. I guess my little 110v Miller doesn't get hot enough. It melted the nut fine but never would fuse to the stud properly. I think it would have just twisted the stud off anyway. I think I'm going to have to drill them out and re-tap.
 

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Welding nuts on was a bust. I could not get the stud to melt. I guess my little 110v Miller doesn't get hot enough. It melted the nut fine but never would fuse to the stud properly. I think it would have just twisted the stud off anyway. I think I'm going to have to drill them out and re-tap.
Grind the end of the stud clean, and drop some weld onto it by itself. Take a nut that'll fit over the welded stud and weld the nut to your weld.
 

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Since your welder doesn't get hot enough to weld to the broken bolt a way to remove them is to heat the bolt to orange color just before it melts and let it cool. Heat again and cool. This breaks the rust bond between the head and the bolt. A propane torch won't do it- you need an acetylene torch.


I wouldn't try to drill out the broken bolts that are flush with the head on the engine. The bit will "walk" off to one side and you'll ruin the drilled and tapped hole in the head. Just remove the head and take it to the machine shop if necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I have been able to drill and tap 3 of the 5 so far. To get around the potential walking problem, I bolted on the manifold and in the hole I inserted steel spacers that I used as guides for the drill bit. The spacers are 3/8 OD and 1/4 ID. I had to wrap a couple of winds of electrical tape to make them fit snug. Then I used a 1/4 inch pilot point drill to start a small hole in the center of the bolt. I then used a 1/8 drill bit to drill out the center then followed that with 1/4 inch. That worked well for 3 of the broken bolts. The last 2 I have the 1/8 inch drilled out but I cannot get any 1/4 inch bits to bite. I wonder if someone used grade 5 or 8 bolts in the past.

Any suggestions on what type bit to use? I've tried split point, pilot point, red helix; DeWalt, Milwaukee and Bosch.
 

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I have been able to drill and tap 3 of the 5 so far. To get around the potential walking problem, I bolted on the manifold and in the hole I inserted steel spacers that I used as guides for the drill bit. The spacers are 3/8 OD and 1/4 ID. I had to wrap a couple of winds of electrical tape to make them fit snug. Then I used a 1/4 inch pilot point drill to start a small hole in the center of the bolt. I then used a 1/8 drill bit to drill out the center then followed that with 1/4 inch. That worked well for 3 of the broken bolts. The last 2 I have the 1/8 inch drilled out but I cannot get any 1/4 inch bits to bite. I wonder if someone used grade 5 or 8 bolts in the past.

Any suggestions on what type bit to use? I've tried split point, pilot point, red helix; DeWalt, Milwaukee and Bosch.
135* split-point HSS bits should work fine. Cobalt is a plus. Try a 1/8" bit to drill a pilot hole first.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
135* split-point HSS bits should work fine. Cobalt is a plus. Try a 1/8" bit to drill a pilot hole first.
I don't know about the 135* or HSS but I seemed to have best results with 1/8 inch DeWalt split point but I can't seem to find a 1/4 split point. All the local stores have in DeWalt 1/4 are speed tip. I found a 1/4 split point on Amazon and ordered it but what I got was a speed tip. But get this, the product number - DW1316 - is the same. In the pic on Amazon it is split point but on the package they sent me it is speed tip. I emailed DeWalt but haven't heard from them yet.
 
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