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Discussion Starter #1
Valve seals replaced, and valve adjustments completed. Not an easy job as those springs will resist compression. Especially when covered in motor oil. Plus the keepers just don't come out easily. However the old 200, which had minimal deposits on head is running much better than before. However, the idle is much faster now. Already have a Pertronix II with Flame-Thrower wires installed. Plan is to add hotter coil, replace the plugs, distributor cap, and advance the stock timing. It has been suggested to put in hotter plugs. I have Auto Lite BF-82 in place. What can I go to for a hotter plug? Also, is that a good idea?
 

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If they are BF82's, they would be Motorcraft plugs. Cross referencing them, you would run an Autolite 46, which is the hottest plug of that configuration that Autolite sells. I don't think you would need to go hotter.
 

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I stand corrected. I just discovered that there was an OEM Autolite BF82. It no longer shows up on Autolite's heat range chart. New BF82's are manufactured under the Motorcraft name.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just pulled one of the plugs. They are actually Motorcraft BSF82C. Thanks for the input.
 

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You have the correct plug, if all else is correct, and they are colored a nice light brown after a hard run.
What's going on with the idle?
 

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A result I am guessing of valve/lifter adjustment. Only other consideration is that I unbolted the carburetor and moved it aside to create room to remove the valve stem springs for #4 cylinder. Now idles at about 750 rpm's. Actually not bad, because helps with bear of a clutch that I have been living with for some time. I see that you have a t-5 transmission. How does that work for you?
 

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As Kenash says, you have the correct plug. You don't need a "hotter" coil or a "hotter" plug or need to widen the gap. I would check for a vacuum leak around your carburetor base or spacer.
 

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Valve seals replaced, and valve adjustments completed. Not an easy job as those springs will resist compression. Especially when covered in motor oil. Plus the keepers just don't come out easily. However the old 200, which had minimal deposits on head is running much better than before. However, the idle is much faster now. Already have a Pertronix II with Flame-Thrower wires installed. Plan is to add hotter coil, replace the plugs, distributor cap, and advance the stock timing. It has been suggested to put in hotter plugs. I have Auto Lite BF-82 in place. What can I go to for a hotter plug? Also, is that a good idea?
A result I am guessing of valve/lifter adjustment. Only other consideration is that I unbolted the carburetor and moved it aside to create room to remove the valve stem springs for #4 cylinder. Now idles at about 750 rpm's. Actually not bad, because helps with bear of a clutch that I have been living with for some time. I see that you have a t-5 transmission. How does that work for you?
As to the idle, does the RPMs change with adjusting your Idle adjustment screw, up or down? If not, re-check your linkage is not hampering the adjustment?

Am assuming you are referring to my T5? I'm have been very pleased with it since 2010. This was a C4 conversion of a 5 bolt block. I purchased all of mine parts from MDL as it guaranteed all of the parts would play nice. I chose a heavy duty version of the "Z" bar clutch actuating assembly as it's simplistic. If I had to change any aspect, I would have omitted the under dash clutch helper spring. However, I had gathered a complete clutch pedal box assembly before I committed to the conversion. But, this is being "picky".
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks all. Will check for vacuum leak.
 
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