[Lypheus]

Ok, spoke with the Mopac guy (performance shop in Calgary here), and heres what he recommended for porting the 351W heads:

Intake Valves ( 2.02 ) - Recommended using Chevy valves here, says it very popular and good way 2 go.
Exhaust Valves ( 1.70 ) - Ford valves.

So what do you think, is the a good comination? I wanted to clear it by VMF before buying some valves, also recommendations on what kind of valves to ask for would be nice (he made his suggestions, what are yours, or is there really all that much too choose from?)

+--------------------+
1969 Mach 1 ( M-Code)

 

[Guest]

Manley Stainless Steel valves.


Greg B

 

[Jim]

Appropriate valve size depends on how the rest of the engine is built and how it will be used (ie- rpm range it will operate in). Can you provide more details?


The poster formerly known as JAV65

That's me on the left...
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1572917&a=11954864&p=43703237.jpg

 

[camachinist]

Now, Jim, that's a really funny picture....



Pat
http://www.jps.net/binay/webdocs/strtmstng002_sml.JPG

 

[camachinist]

Largest valves I'd recommend in a W head would be a 1.94 intake and 1.6 exhaust...you can use a Chevy intake and cut down a Chevy exhaust...

The ports really can't use anything bigger, even with porting work...

Aftermarket heads are a different story....

Pat
http://www.jps.net/binay/webdocs/strtmstng002_sml.JPG

 

[Lypheus]

I am aiming for:

300+ HP / 300+ FBT
Good Idle
Preferably lower end HP/Torque, I don't like to rev my engine past 4000 most times (I like to think I baby them, but in reality I'm probably not by keeping RPM's low?).

So ideally an engine that has neck snapping torque (but still drivable downtown without hopping and stuff), is capable of long distance travel and has good low end HP (so 300 HP @ 3500 - 4000 RPM would be awesome).

What I have to work with: 1982 351W HO, 9" Rear with 3.50 gears (I think the guy said 3.91 but I don't see that Mcode 69 Mach's came with that), Traction Lok and a 4 Speed Toploader.

I want to minimize cost for this first rebuild, since its my first, so that any mistakes I make don't cost buttloads of $ ... I don't mind buying siamese racing blocks, etc... the next time round, but for this one I want to keep it real.... DSSRacing has a $450 USD kit that has everything but gaskets, crank and block for a rebuild which sounds kinda nice ...

Chris

+--------------------+
1969 Mach 1 ( M-Code)

 

[Guest]

If your looking for 300 hourses from a 351W you should be able to get buy on stock 1.84/1.54 valves and a good porting job. Big valves are great for racing but for your application I think you'd be much happier w/ the smaller valves. These will build more low rpm torque than a 2.02 and should flow plent good up to the 4-5,000 rpm you might see. I would have your heads ground for the early ford 1.84/1.54 valves and port them. this should support the 300 hp your looking for and give excelent low end power.

-You can never have too much power, just not enough traction.-

 

[Guest]

There is an excellent possibility that your 2.02 valves WILL NOT clear the eyebrows on your pistons unless they are custom or cut special. Been there. Stock aftermarket pistons should clear the more standard 1.84/1.54 valves. Do your homework before committing on this one.

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