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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,
I just picked up what seems to be a complete '79 lincoln versaille rearend for my '68 coupe. My car currently has stock power disk brakes and I'd like to install the rear but I have a few questions I was hoping somebody might help me with before I start:
1) What master cylinder/ proportioning valve changes will I need to make?
2) I need to add a drain/fill plug since neither the rearend or the pumpkin I have for it has one. Anybody see a problem with drilling and tapping either one?
3) Is there a trick to getting the pistons out of the calipers? I've hit them with air with no luck. They get about 3/4 of the way out and stop. Any suggestions?
I don't have much money or time in it so far but with the way things are going, I'm starting to wonder if it's all going to be worth it!
Thanks for any help you can offer,
Tom
 

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Hello.
I'd either try a Versailles prop valve, or better yet, an adjustable valve from SSBC or Wildwood. As you look at the center section from the yoke end, the fill plug should be on the right side just above the center line. It sits pretty flush and has a recessed 3/8 square drive. Have you removed the parking brake stuff which is attached to the pistons inside the calipers? Good luck

'66 A-code Fastback (therapy)
'89 Town Car (SWMBO D'driver)
'87 Caprice (as req'd by Hagerty)
 

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If it were me, I'd ditch it. A lot of the parts are unique and aren't available. The rotors are specific for each side and the caliper is of a fixed, not floating style and can cause the rotors to crack because instead of the caliper moving, it causes the rotor to deflect.

Then there is the center section. It's not a 9" but 9 3/8 ring gear, not many ratios except highway gears. But the good news is that a regular 9" bolts in.

With the Versailles rear axle, it's not much of a bargian anymore and more trouble and expense if everything is not perfect from the get go.

Sell it, use the funds to buy a narrowed 9" housing with small bearing ends and re-use your 28 spline axles and backing plates along with a 28 spline center. This should be a cheap upgrade and plenty strong for a small block.

Tom
You can do anything you want to......ONCE!
aka "my 66 coupe"
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1575517&a=11977890&p=44194856.jpg

Hale Boppe comet shot off my roof. See you can use 100 iso at night with no flash!
 
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Discussion Starter #4
The Lincoln Versaille disc brake housing is an ez swap to a Mustang.....I did mine several years ago and it works great with my 67 disc brake system. I left the rear stock Mustang valve in place and went to an adjustable porportioning valve. I also now have drilled rotors from a late model Mustang. You will have to space out the calibers if you go with the drilled rotors, a short 3/8 inch spacer works fine. I drilled out the housing at the rear of the pumpkin housing and installed an automatic transmission drain plug for the oil fill. I also used the Lincoln spring perches and plates. Because the Lincoln had staggered shocks I had to re-weld the shock mount to the front of the mounting plate. However, you can use the Mustang plates if you like. There is a Mustang dealer in California that has all the Lincoln rebuilt/replacement parts you need to do your calibers and brakes. The "E" brake hook up can be a little tricky. Just make sure you use good cable splices.

Bob White (672nv)
 

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I posted a lot of info on the old board about the swap, I have a lot of web sites and information on it. I did the swap on my 65' FB. I have to agree at this point with the other poster. If I were goign to go back and do it again, I would save a few more bucks and buy a Perogie or Currie rear end or something like that with the new brake system, etc. The Lincoln rear was cheap, but by the time I found the missing parking brake arms and replaced the calipers, it began to get expensive. I still think the parking brake stuff sucks, you have to rig it up to work. Honestly, if my rear end takes a dump, ill tear it out and replace it rather then rebuild it again...but hey, cheap is cheap, but be prepared to buy some stuff. Calipers are 75-90 rebuilt from Napa. Hoses are expensive. And you MUST use the parking brake to keep the calipers adjusted. They are screw in/out type. Good luck.
 

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Let me know if you decide to sell that rear if its complete!
They are expensive to rebuild, but I have an inside track on parts...all legal. I think Joe public is going to shell out something like $300 or more just for calipers, rotors, and hoses. Add $60 for park cables...ect
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I too am playing with this swap, except I am using MK5 calipers. The difference between the GMV and MK5 calipers is where the brake hose exits the caliper. I am using an SSBC adjustable prop valve. I also found to swap the calipers from side to side in order to pull the park brake levers correctly. The statement that these calipers do not float is simply untrue. Mustang Monthly also wrote that. If your calipers do not slide easily, you have assembled them wrong! I agree this swap is getting more costly as the parts are expensive. Contact Mustangs Plus (www.mustangsplus.com)for more info on this swap.
 
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