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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 66 Convert that I finally got on the road after a bunch of engine work. Once at highway speeds and large bump in the road sends the car swerving of the road....it's very sketchy to say the least. Any suggestions (Do I need a susp rebuild?) I have not messed with the suspension yet at all (Except new shocks up front). However, the engine mods have left my car about 75-90 pouns lighter up front. Now the body rests way higher (I am planning new coils with a 1 inch drop)

66 GT RagTop
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Discussion Starter #2
Bad rear shocks and poorly inflated tires will also cause swerving. Check simple things first.

Take my advice... I'm not using it...

Dan
Be a good dad to your kids and phone your mom twice a week...
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Since you've removed some weight from the front end, I would recomend getting a front end alignment right away, then you can plan your ultimate solution. I suspect that the alignment settings have changed a little, and it is causing the car to be squirrelly.



Steve Leslie, 65 coupe in restoration. 302, toploader, A/C, disc brakes, bench seat

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New bushings throughout (marerial is your choice), a 1" sway bar with polyurethane bushings and those new coil springs should help a bunch. Also, check for play in the steering linkage and control arms. Look for cracks if your control arms if they are originals. Good luck!

Shannon a.k.a. The ShanMan! /forums/images/icons/cool.gif
66' Vintage Burgundy C-code coupe
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Cars that are pulled around by ruts and irregularity in the road surface are quite often not aligned well. Too little caster can really make a front end feel squirrely. In any case, if it's been 50k or more miles since the last front end rebuild, I'd agree with the others - just suck it up and do the suspension/shocks/steering rebuild or replacement. It may cost you a grand, but that sort of thing is not to be taken lightly. It can kill you as quickly as bad brakes!

Glenn Morgan 66 GT Fastback 351w+toploader
 

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Alignment could be part of the problem especially if it's sitting high. However, if the front suspension is old, old, old, it could most certainly be that as well. Me thinks you need to inspect for loose inner/outer tie rod ends, Idle arm, ball joints etc., etc. And from your description, it needs to be done sooner rather than later, other wise you may be taking some unexpected flying lessons.

65 Hi-Po F/B (7 yr resto)
67 GTA F/B (small block) Mustang Owners Club of Austin (MOCA), TX
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Discussion Starter #7
This can be caused by a number of possibilities, but the lighter front is my bet. The original springs were calculated for the weight they were to carry. Now the front may not only sit higher, the spring-action is also different. The result is that when the wheel moves upwards because of a bump, there is less weight to keep the top of the spring from pushing the car upwards, if you know what I mean.

But there are lots of other possible reasons that may contribute to bad roadholding. Most of them have already been mentioned by the other posts, so I won't repeat them.
 

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I'm dealing with that same thing right now. Except, I've got sever inner tire wear, which means the camber is off (toed in) - an alignment problem. It is scary going 115 mpg and feeling like you're on the water.

Here's my plan, which tends towards cheap first then more expensive.

1. New springs (620 and lowered an inch). You may choose less stiff springs.
2. Alignment (one place already said it did not need it, but I didn't believe them)
3. Determine if the Power Steering Control Valve Ball Stud need replacing (the same guy who said he couldnt align it, said the ball stud was real loose.)

What that guy probably did not know was that the car must be running to check for play on the ball stud.

My .02



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66 vert, 5.0L custom roller motor
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Discussion Starter #9
Do you have PS?

Just get a front end rebuild over with, you will be glad after its in and aligned.
 
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