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VIN Stamping Missing a number

4K views 18 replies 10 participants last post by  cougar70 
#1 ·
So folks I have a 67 Metuchen built S Code car, and am finally after 20 years of ownership selling the car. I've had the car registered in GA under te VIN missing the number 1 after the S engine code. I am not positive the stamping on the passenger side is there intact or shows anything different. I haven't wanted to pull it since the restoration and didn't know to look back then. The door tag I got years back from Marti with the report has the corrected VIN as they knew it should be there. I am trying to update the registration with the correct VIN but the state won't verify a number they can't see. Especially since the door tag is a replacement. Marti is out doing the auction tour so I thought I'd ask if anyone has been able to get a car registered under the correct VIN if their car has a mis-stamp. Reading up on this forum it looks like Metuchen is notorious for this. Any help or insight would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Marti says the car is "1 of 3" Raven Black fastbacks built with a blue interior so thus trying to get it corrected for sale.
 

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#3 ·
There are usually one or even two VINs stamped on the top of the fender aprons, under the fender lip. Use one of those to verify.

Odd they objected to using a "replacement" door tag. Usually they wouldn't know. Did you make a mistake and tell them? Don't do that.

Looks like you have no choice but to use the hidden VIN. Are they visually inspecting it, or simply asking for a pencil rubbing?
 
#5 ·
There are usually one or even two VINs stamped on the top of the fender aprons, under the fender lip. Use one of those to verify.

Odd they objected to using a "replacement" door tag. Usually they wouldn't know. Did you make a mistake and tell them? Don't do that.

Looks like you have no choice but to use the hidden VIN. Are they visually inspecting it, or simply asking for a pencil rubbing?
Can I get a pencil rubbing without removing the fender you think? The splash guards may or may not be present on that side.
 
#4 ·
They came out in person and to a consignment place. The officer had the hood open before I could get there to show them the door tag. I may pull the drivers side fender just a pain and I know the hood hinge holes were shot when we did the resto but I cant remember if that sheetmetal was replaced or not. It was 10 years ago. Back then I didn't know to look on the passenger side. I'm pouring through my restoration photos now but don't see the numbers on the pass side. I appreciate the insight. Need a cop that knows Vintage mustangs here in GA to help. Haha! Seriously though!
 
#6 ·
I know from owning a 68' that VIN on the blocks was only starting to become a thing for cars that were run-of-the-mill. But have you checked your engine block for the VIN out on the back? I'm a July 68 date of manufacture and mine has one on the back of the block. Less likely on a 67' but maybe since it's an S code 390 and/or a GT it will be there?
 
#8 ·
I went through something similar after I purchased my Metuchen built 67 S code hardtop and attempted to register it in Maryland. It is also missing the 1 after the S in the VIN. There are two VINs visible on the driver's side fender apron, but they are both missing the 1. The registration was also missing the 1 but the title had the full VIN listed. The DMV ran me around in circles getting paper work and tracings of the VIN for several visits with no luck. I finally went to a different DMV location and was able to register the car with no problems. That was almost 46 years ago. Still have the car. Several years later when I pulled the fenders there was a third VIN stamped on the driver's side apron and one on the passenger side apron that were both complete. I'm sure you'll be able to get your's straightened out, but you may have to pull back a fender enough to expose a hidden VIN stamping . There was no VIN stamped on the block in my car. I'm fairly certain it really is the original 390 engine.
 
#13 ·
I wonder if your car was built right before or after mine. In terms of that third stamping I think the pass side sheetmetal was rusted and repaired years ago but the third stamping on the apron can you tell me where that might be? Nearest the hood hinge or closer to the core support. It may be worth it to pop the fenders off?
 
#11 ·
Your "legal" VIN is the one missing the digit. Since you have the documentation that supports this VIN, even though it doesn't comply to the "norm", I'd leave things alone. It's no different than if the VIN was mis-stamped with an invalid character(s) for the body style or engine... it IS what it is.
 
#12 ·
Who is looking at the vin on the car?
Here when you buy a car you take the title and preferably the state form for selling a car to a private party into the sub courthouse tap on the screen at the entry of the waiting room that you are registering a car. It prints out a number then you wait to be called to one of the counters around the room. You hand them the paperwork and your drivers licence and they type and ask a few questions. Then they tell you how much it will cost you pay them then you get a reciept and will get a state title in the mail.
Then if you want to plate it you will have to have it inspected and then they will sell you a plate.

Now if you are registering a boat in TX good luck... Dealing with the parks and wildlife is a PITA as they don't know their own rules and what forms to use. In the case of a boat it's best to print and fill out the forms then mail it into Austin as you will easily get a title but go into the P&W and you will be extremely infuriated by the process.
 
#19 ·
Do a search of this Forum and see what has happened to others with this situation. Some jurisdictions might do something you don't expect. Like issue a new VIN and put a sticker on the car on the car with the VIN they issue. The VIN that they issue comes out of a computer and has nothing to do with a particular car. I think a title with an obvious error is better than one with a random computer generated VIN.
 
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