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Wagner PCV valve

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Looking for input/comments/suggestions, particularly if you’re cammed up and turning lots of rpm.
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A little light reading……..
 

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Just bought one. Installing soon. Hope it will help resolve a rear main seal leak on a fresh one-piece seal. Drips a little after engine shut down. No seepage when running. 5.0 HO SEFI, pretty stock at moment except for roller rockers, larger TB & Mass Air, windage tray & shorties.
 

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1968 Ford Mustang Coupe | 302 | E-Style
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Bought one recently to fix oil coming out of my breather - turns out I didn’t have baffles. Fixed that first, then installed, instructions are so easy to understand and the install was simple. So far, no more oil leaks - haven’t really driven the car enough to put it through the full test but worth the money IMO
 

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I bought on within the last couple of years and installed it. I think this is probably the first time I've been able to run my car without any oil drips. I have always run whatever PCV valve that would fit and never gave it a second thought.
 

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I installed mine this summer. I've never seen a product that was designed, made, packaged and documented with so much care. They obviously wanted it to be absolutely perfect. I installed it as a part of switching to a different (rebuild) carb, including tuning it, so I can't really tell how much difference it really made compared to the simple PCV valve, but I feel it was still worth the price.
 

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I only have two vacuum ports available on my manifold; from the number 4 cyl and the number 8. Both are currently used combined for the Power brakes. I wonder if I can split them and use one for the brakes and one for the PCV....
 

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In your situation, ideally, an oil separator would keep the chosen cylinder and spark plug cleaner. One of the members on here actually put the seperator first then remote mounted the Wagner. kip
 

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I get that part, it's the putting all the blow by gasses into the one intake runner that would concern me. kip
 

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Wagner does make an inline version of their valve. A 90* elbow from the right valve cover to the space behind the shock tower where there's plenty of unused space for a separator. From there the inline pcv to the intake. Wouldn't be highly visible and the separator when seen could look pretty trick, like the rest of your motor. kip
 

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1965 Mustang GT. 11.898 @ 113.646, all motor, three pedals
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Get (or modify yours) collectors with evac bungs, pipe and a couple Thermactor anti-backfire valves and have at it....

View attachment 868075
That’s an option I’ve considered. What I really need to do is a belt drive vacuum pump, but that’s big bucks. At some point I have to ask myself “where does it end?”

Answer: it doesn’t 😜
 

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It seems that at some level of increased performance, the original PCV valve spec does not flow enough air to relieve the crankcase of pressure. Mostly noticeable with any forced induction engine, but certainly a possibility on naturally aspirated ones too. Symptoms of insufficient PCV flow are obvious, usually leaks in numerous places and oil mist if you have open breathers.

One example I have is my old '79 Bronco which has an EFI retrofitted 400 engine. Originally, these engines didn't produce much power, possibly around 150 hp tops LOL. After I went through it, it's a solid 350 hp, 450 ft-lb engine and the stock PCV wasn't cutting it. I was leaking out of the oil pan gaskets, valve covers, every orifice you could imagine. I revised my PCV plumbing using 5/8" ID tubing (fully sealed breathers due to EFI) and not kidding, the engine stopped leaking completely. Bone dry. Runs extremely efficiently and makes power everywhere, probably because the ring seal is greatly improved.

If the Wagner dual valve assembly is what it says it is, it certainly couldn't hurt!
 

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1965 Mustang GT. 11.898 @ 113.646, all motor, three pedals
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It seems that at some level of increased performance, the original PCV valve spec does not flow enough air to relieve the crankcase of pressure. Mostly noticeable with any forced induction engine, but certainly a possibility on naturally aspirated ones too
That^ is exactly where I‘m at. There comes a point when your stuff simply doesn’t fit into the box it was originally intended for.
I just bought one of these Wagner valves, it’ll be here in a few days. It’s the quickest/easiest of the (reasonable😜) options I’m considering, so why not give it a shot.

I‘m just starting to gather parts for it, but I‘ve been bench racing a 363 build. That will require a lot more than just a slick PCV valve but I’m hopeful this Wagner deal gets me by until I’m actually swapping motors. Thanks all for your input 😎
 
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