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Volo Auto Museum/Sales. You bought that? Supposedly it was meticulously restored including all steering and suspension components. Can't imagine how it might sag or wander if like new but maybe it's a question of that touchy/sensitive power steering they had back then, and the rear leaf springs may not be exact OEM spec. Marti Report S Code and GT Option Group. Looks pretty nice from the pics I saw.
 

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Rear height looks fine too me. Have the alignment done and add more Caster. Install a 1/8" shim in the front upper control arm bolt on both sides to help with the caster gain without pulling the lower control arm so far forward with the strut rods as to bind the bushing. Get as much Caster as you can something in the 3 to 5 degrees will work and set the Camber close to negative .5 degrees and 1/8" total toe in.
 

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a. Bias-Ply Tires?
b. Loose suspension components?
c. Too little (or none) positive caster?
d. Too little (or none) toe-in?
 

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Tire pressure, misaligned axle, loose lugs (It can happen), broken belts in tire or tires...
 

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I've seen cars with loose U bolts on the rear springs, allowing the axle to shift. Scary. And of course those do look like bias ply tires in the photo, and a bit of wandering is normal for them.

But certainly checking every bolt, and of course the wheel alignment is critical. A friend of mine bought a 66 Corvette one time, as said above, a seller, not a driver. We drove it home 5 hours. And it rattled and wandered. After wheel alignment, we put it on a lift, and virtually every bolt on the car was loose. That was 35 years ago, he still has the car. And it's rock solid.
 

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Looks normal to me. Most 67 'stang squat like that.
The wandering: either alignment is off a little or it has Bias ply tires. Bias plys "crack walk" while you are driving.
Ignore the comment about adding shims. 67/68 don't use any.
 

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Looks normal to me. Most 67 'stang squat like that.
The wandering: either alignment is off a little or it has Bias ply tires. Bias plys "crack walk" while you are driving.
Ignore the comment about adding shims. 67/68 don't use any.
Ignoring my advice on adding a shim to the front bolt on the upper control arm of the 67-70 Mustangs shows how little you know. You may want to research that common mod on the 67 and newer cars. If you read my post again you will understand why it is done when trying to gain Caster.
 

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Ignoring my advice on adding a shim to the front bolt on the upper control arm of the 67-70 Mustangs shows how little you know. You may want to research that common mod on the 67 and newer cars. If you read my post again you will understand why it is done when trying to gain Caster.
Ever notice those large nuts on the strut bars?? THAT is where you adjust the caster.
 

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Ever notice those large nuts on the strut bars?? THAT is where you adjust the caster.
I will try and explain this to you. First I will give you a little background on myself. I actually own a computerized alignment machine and work out of my shop at home. I have worked for Ford and Honda doing collision work for many years of my career. I have a pretty good understanding on alignments considering I was the guy who did all the suspension work for Ford and Honda fixing bent and twisted cars. So I understand how to align a 65/66 Mustang and a 67-70 Mustang and what the difference is between the two. What you fail to realize is on the 67 and newer cars is you can add a shim to the front bolt on the upper control arm to gain positive Caster without having to pull the lower control arm as far forward using the strut rod. If you would slow down a bit and read my original post you will see I explained that. Take a step back do a little research and you will see this is a common mod that can be done when looking to get more Caster.
 
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