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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 1965 coupe with a mid 70's 302 in it, Holley carb.
I have been tuning the car and got her running great once warmed up, however on startup when cold she is rough and I need to engage the choke (car previously had manual choke which was not working properly) - with proper choke she starts right up.
I want to remove manual choke (disconnected in picture as it did not work smoothly) and install electronic choke (I don't think I have the setup for hot air choke).
Any pointers or suggestions on a kit for this car and the install?
Can someone tell me if it alresdy has a choke of some sort or if what I am looking at is the manual choke parts?

Appreciate any help.
 

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You should be able to install the electric choke kit just in front of the vacuum secondary diaphram.

Can't help but notice your carb is looking a little rough, my friend. You might want to order a rebuild kit with that choke kit. Nothing like bolting on a spiffy, shiny, clean and freshly rebuilt carb. :)
 

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Thanks, the holley carb list number is 1850-2, not sure of this carb can take an elelectric choke?
Yes, it will fit. Since this is a Holley, you can tap into the alternator stator terminal for power. This insures the choke has power only when the engine is running.
 
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You could spend a bunch of time and money getting that carb up to snuff. Or you could put it out to pasture. I'll sell you a Holley Street Avenger 670 (really an 1850 600cfm body) for $250. It already has an electric choke that works flawlessly. It's on my 306 now. Works great. Dyno and street tested. Only reason I am selling is because I am switching to a manual soon and I already got a Holley 650 XP Ultra Double Pumper to replace it.
 

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Looks to me like the manual cable is missing. I have a manual choke on my 302 and love it. Never, ever have to worry about it not working properly or having to adjust it.
 
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Looks to me like the manual cable is missing. I have a manual choke on my 302 and love it. Never, ever have to worry about it not working properly or having to adjust it.
My thought as well,add the $20 cable and call it good.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you! It dodnt
Yes, it will fit. Since this is a Holley, you can tap into the alternator stator terminal for power. This insures the choke has power only when the engine is running.
Thank you - on a forum in saw I can tap into this wire - see picture (believe it was 12v switched for the heater). Any difference where I go?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You should be able to install the electric choke kit just in front of the vacuum secondary diaphram.

Can't help but notice your carb is looking a little rough, my friend. You might want to order a rebuild kit with that choke kit. Nothing like bolting on a spiffy, shiny, clean and freshly rebuilt carb. :)
I just got the car from my father (he is still with us for the time being) and had low/rough idle - there is a ton of work to do.
After tuning with vacuum gauge and rpm gauge she is running pretty mint and afraid to open a can of worms.
Looks to me like the manual cable is missing. I have a manual choke on my 302 and love it. Never, ever have to worry about it not working properly or having to adjust it.
It has one on it but for some reason was never smooth or worked correctly. I like the electronic choke idea as dont have to worry about remembering to adjust choke. Car runs mint when warm but when cold needs that choke.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You could spend a bunch of time and money getting that carb up to snuff. Or you could put it out to pasture. I'll sell you a Holley Street Avenger 670 (really an 1850 600cfm body) for $250. It already has an electric choke that works flawlessly. It's on my 306 now. Works great. Dyno and street tested. Only reason I am selling is because I am switching to a manual soon and I already got a Holley 650 XP Ultra Double Pumper to replace it.
Appreciate the offer and seems like a good deal but I dont want to make to many changes for the time being, money first issie and second just learning this car (and classic car in general). The car is also running pretty mint, and afraid to mess with stuff unless necessary. Agree could use a rebuild, when get to that point will have to consider options.
Thanks for the offer
 

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I need to engage the choke (car previously had manual choke which was not working properly) - with proper choke she starts right up.
As already observed, the problem with the manual choke seems to be lack of an operating cable. The only malfunction I've seen with manual chokes is I occasionally leave them on too long.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
As already observed, the problem with the manual choke seems to be lack of an operating cable. The only malfunction I've seen with manual chokes is I occasionally leave them on too long.
I have the cable hooked up from inside to the engine but disconnected as it has a kink somewhere.
That is the reason I want electric, dont need to remember or touch anything, just start car and let warm off. Also, appears electric is better (I am uneducated so let me know otherwise) as it slowly adjust the choke as it warms up so at the right rpm the entire warm up (with manual higher idle speed for longer time).

Really appreciate all the input from everyone, I can see this will be an expensive endeavor bit already enjoying learning about this (and even teachingy dad a few things). Fyi thos car is a driver- would love to restore one day but with non matching numbers, and the amount of rust/bondo will likely enjoy it for what it is.
 

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Thank you! It dodnt

Thank you - on a forum in saw I can tap into this wire - see picture (believe it was 12v switched for the heater). Any difference where I go?
If you tap into the stator wire it only has current when the alternator is actually producing, meaning when the engine is running. If you tap into a switched source, the choke will receive current when the ignition is on. This means the choke will be receiving current and heating up even when the engine is not running. If for some reason the engine has a problem in starting, the choke will be receiving power and continue to open even though the engine hasn't actually started. This can lead to problems with cold starts. Ford has used the stator wire for years to power the choke on carbed engines. The stator connection has about 6 volts, but that really isn't a problem with electric chokes.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If you tap into the stator wire it only has current when the alternator is actually producing, meaning when the engine is running. If you tap into a switched source, the choke will receive current when the ignition is on. This means the choke will be receiving current and heating up even when the engine is not running. If for some reason the engine has a problem in starting, the choke will be receiving power and continue to open even though the engine hasn't actually started. This can lead to problems with cold starts. Ford has used the stator wire for years to power the choke on carbed engines. The stator connection has about 6 volts, but that really isn't a problem with electric chokes.
Awesome,will use that connection - thanks for the explanation.
Can you point me to the stator wire?(fyi going to order repair manual if have suggestions, still unable to get to the ID numbers on this 302 until I take some parts off but was told mid to late 70's. was hoping to ID then order but may should get one sooner).
here is the alternator - will be working on cleaning this up this weekend.
 

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Awesome,will use that connection - thanks for the explanation.
Can you point me to the stator wire?(fyi going to order repair manual if have suggestions, still unable to get to the ID numbers on this 302 until I take some parts off but was told mid to late 70's. was hoping to ID then order but may should get one sooner).
here is the alternator - will be working on cleaning this up this weekend.
You should have terminals labeled, B, F, S and G or Bat, Fld, Sta, Gd. Tap into the terminal labeled S or Sta.

You will have to remove that carb from the manifold to instal the electric choke, so you will also need a new carb gasket.
 

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On terminal labels:, B, F, S and G or Bat, Fld, Sta, Gd. That's Battery, Field, Stator, Ground. Also get the Electric Assembly Manual which includes electrical schematics.

Be sure to get the correct new carb gasket. Many generic ones at the auto store might not have holes in the right location or be the correct outside size and could cause a vacuum leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You should have terminals labeled, B, F, S and G or Bat, Fld, Sta, Gd. Tap into the terminal labeled S or Sta.

You will have to remove that carb from the manifold to instal the electric choke, so you will also need a new carb gasket.
Terrific.
Glad you mentioned i will order a gasket.
As far as gasket when I called holley they said it was a model 4160, so gonna get this one.
 

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Your spending a lot of time trying to figure out how to hook up the electric choke. You will still have to adjust it.

If you had gotten the new cable, you'd be done by now.

I've had all 3 types of chokes, automatic (ordinal Ford), manual, and electric. I just bought a Summit carb with the electric choke and got it working. I had to adjust it 3 times to get it right. So far, so good with it. Even with the automatic, it eventually needs attention. In the 15 years I've had the manual, I've never had a problem.

I love the manual....it's so old school. One more thing that make these cars special and different from the rest.

Manual choke can also act as a theft deterrent. Folks won't know how to keep the engine running.

Just sayin...
 

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I have the cable hooked up from inside to the engine but disconnected as it has a kink somewhere.
That is the reason I want electric, dont need to remember or touch anything, just start car and let warm off. Also, appears electric is better (I am uneducated so let me know otherwise) as it slowly adjust the choke as it warms up so at the right rpm the entire warm up (with manual higher idle speed for longer time).
Actually, I've always believed the hot air type to be superior. The electric cycles off according to a set amount of heat in the internal coil, regardless of outside air temperature. The hot air type cycles off based on the heat coming from the exhaust manifold or header. On cold days this will occur more slowly than hot days. Probably not a critical difference, I've driven both.

Of course, fixing your cable should be easy. I've recently done mine, it was getting pretty stiff. Disconnected it from the lever, and pulled the knob out. Lubricated the cable as I pushed it back in. Now it slides dead easy.
 
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