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Yes they did years ago
Thats what crossed my mind (the Qstn answered, but been that long, can't really remember) - Twisted Wedge (Inlet Valve) though ?? Or on same plane ? No x-spurt on those but a good way to UP compression, if you've still got or Stumble across a Smog pistoned 351W, from distant memory, With their Smaller 53-57cc Chambers (289/302/Trickflow 302)...

Kind offer further Up re the 351C etc low miles on o/haul, but for Others here, relying on internet/Utube etc for info etc, unless fresh oil wasn't filled before pulled/storage & the Bearings have some Acid etching/pitting, they SHOULDN'T need changing, pull the Sump, (Grab some Plastiguage Green from NAPA etc) & pull a couple of Main & B/E bearing Caps: Inspect & Plastigauge Clearance measure at Same time & IF unsure of bearing surface Cond, double check with local friendly Machine Shop & don't forget to take a 6 pack of something for their time for the lunchroom etc.

1 Best check for a mothballed engine & possible pre-start/Crankover is mixture 50:50 of Diesel & ATF down the bores, plugs out - turn over by hand with fresh oil in sump with some STP or Lucas Additive(Spin the oil pump with drill & extension, if YOUR eng will let you, for ptelubed Crank etc) & see if any hung-up or stuck valves NOT CRANKED OVER ON THE STARTER MOTOR & if all reasonably free, B4 popping some S/plugs back in, check for any suspect freeze plugs too & give it a Cold cranking Comp test (easily done with eng sitting on a Pallet even)IF compressions down but even, MAY have A CAM in it (OR SMOG RECONERS TIMING SET) BUT if Compressions All over the Place or EG down on some by more than 15-20 PSI, think about A Quality Set Of gaskets, AN AN500 Hone Stone OR better Yet Same In a BOTTLE BRUSH Type hone with VERY Fine Stone & Fresh Set Of the Std Moly Top Hastings etc P/Rings you see discounted or better Yet the 5/64" Mustang type (HO yrs) LightWeight Tension oil Ring, Ringset Ford Parts Cntr may have (NO PAW anymore) - That's MORE you have to Concern yourselves with, with a Stored Engine or Pickapart type deal with NO pre Pull history , Rather than bearings: Checkings fine, Blindly replacing is diverting $ from better usage/wastage, be more concerned with tired/stretched Timing Chain & dried crank oil seal/s too.
PLUS if NOT stalled with light oil DOWN CARB/INLET THROAT on Storage Shutdown w Eng running to Stall: Valve sealing/Face/Seat rusting & possible Valve-guide sticking/stuck valve IS a possible find (if so: A pulled Valve Cover, Penetrating oil down Valve stem & that Cyl Piston Down Bore & a mild Wack with Plastic Mallet on V/spring/Valve may Free without head pull & Piston slowly coming up bore should push it home, IF carbon stuck).

Re Extra Weight OF the 351W over 260/289/302/later 5.0W - many early 2V 351W's Came with Cast Iron Intake Manifolds: Up grade with an OEM Alloy 2/4 bbl or Aftermarket Inlet manifold - good used is Fine if Corrosion & Thermo lip OK, Saves a lot of that "Extra Weight" as Does an Alloy Carb/Throttle body EFI like, AFB/Edelbrock 4bbls/Some Hollies & Demons etc + the GD old Holley 450cfm Economaster smog/Perf Carb (mid 70's - mid 80's) Mech Sec.

Same For Ed/Speedmaster Alloy Heads for An upgrade BUT keep that Intake Port CC's CONSERVATIVE: U don't DRIVE a Dyno/Flow Bench & How Often DO those aftermarket suppliers offer up LOW LIFT FLOW FIGURES WITH 30° SEATS ? (on Intakes) ;-)..

Sorry extensive Reply - "Yikes MY eyes glazed over..TMI, 25 Characters only..." Covered 5+ bases.Go grab a tub ice cream!
HRTrev.
 
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