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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So here is my first build thread here. I had posted last year about this car and it has a great family history I will recap a short version here in the thread.



My dad bought this 1966 Mustang in 1967 before he met my mom, they dated in this car and he drove it as a daily driver until 72 or 73 then it was a weekend car until 79 when it was parked. I have a photo of the inspection that shows 78-79. The car has not been running sense mid 80s when there was a engine noise while idling and it got turned off. Growing up I was always told my older sister would get the car once dad fix's it back up. A few years ago my dad helped me on restoring a 78 F150 and he saw I could do the work and get a car back on the road. In the fall(2018) he decided to put brakes on this car so when I got it we could move it around safely, well at 69 years old he can't really get down on the ground and rebuild brakes like he use to and he told me I could have the car. So sold my 78 and got the mustang delivered today to my house. My oldest son called "dibs" while the car was still on the trailer but I told both my boys "The one that has the most wrench time with me on the car is the one that gets it when I'm ready to let it go."



One more thing is my wife and I always name our cars not sure why but we have done it for 20 years so we have already named the mustang. Her name is Cindy in honor of my mom that passed away 11 years ago.



Cindy's details
1966 Mustang
289 4 barrel
3 speed in the floor
Arcadian Blue with white two color seats (Dad called them phony seats)
Mustang deliverd 6-12-2019 (1).jpg

Mustang deliverd 6-12-2019 (3).jpg

Mustang deliverd 6-12-2019 (7).jpg

Mustang deliverd 6-12-2019 (8).jpg

Car was wrecked in 67 or 68 and front driver fender and door got replaced from a yellow parts car. You can see in the photos it is the worst spot on the car the paint must have been thinner than factory.



Quick outline of my plan of attack on the car
1-Clean up the car and see what all I have to work with
2-Disc brake conversion on the front
3- Rebuild the drums in the back
4- Get the engine started and if it is bad rebuild it
5- Any small things so the car can be driven
6- Spring 2020 fly my dad up and let him drive the car.
7- Will do body work and undercoating on sections as I go and as time permits.



It is a lot of work to get done before spring but I think it is all possible, once dad drives the car I don't mind slowing down a little and getting body work finished so I can have it painted but want it drive able by spring.





I think we can get the clean up done this month and order the brake stuff around the 4th of July because guessing the online stores will have sales going on so maybe save a few bucks. While waiting for that I can pull the brakes off and do some work in all the wheel wells so they are ready for all the new parts.



Will be posting photos as we go.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks everyone.


Started cleaning on it last night and I'm really surprised how little rust there is.



Got the car up on jack stands, pulled the wheels and drum brakes off, removed the back seats and cleaned out the trunk. Going thru the front wheel wells they are very solid little surface rust but very very little. Did see a little on the driver front slash shield, going to deal with that when I pull off the fenders to adjust the doors and check to make sure no issues are hiding. Only real issue was the back seat floors both have a few small holes and for the price of new panels I don't see any reason to try and patch these just cut it out and drop in new ones.



I took some photos and I will keep taking more as we go.



Today if work slows down I'm going to try and get my rear brakes figures out so I can order them.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So here are some pics of the wheel well, rear floor pan and trunk area.



The trunk is pretty nasty but only surface rust so going to wire wheel that and paint.



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This car more so than my 78 f150 I think will be that car I get lost chasing rabbit holes all the time. Well if you are putting brakes on you might as well put new brake lines, well you have the control arms exposed you might as well pull those off and clean them all up, with those off might as well put new ball joints, ..... it never ends. Don't get me wrong I know it needs the work and I know now is the best time to do that stuff but it gets easy to get lost and once your lost its hard to finish the car.
 

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Not to help you out with the "while i'm at its" but those control arms most likely are the old rubber bushing style which has disintegrated. Makes for some exciting handling let me tell you...
As a stop gap, you can replace them with some more stock style ones that will get you by a few years. Otherwise, if you can swing it, swap them out for some rollers.

Love the story man! Good luck on the build!
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Small update. My youngest son (14yr) came out to help me last night on the car. It changed my plan from working on cleaning out wheel wells to teaching him about cars and how they work. He was able to take a few bolts out and it was nice to hang out for a few hours even if we talked more then worked it was time well spent. We pulled the spark plugs and put oil in the cylinders so maybe we can turn it by hand in a few days. My wife told me last night that our youngest told her "I really want that car" so she told him to come help me so he did. lol He has been after me to get him a late 70s firebird as his first car but haven't found one yet. Maybe he will switch to a mustang now sure we can find one of those and work on it as a first car.



We also found out why the car pulls to the driver side when accelerating hard. The motor mounts are jacked up, the driver side looks right but the passenger side the rubber section is all toward the back of the car it is about a 1-2" father back than the driver side one. And the engine is pushed toward the passenger side so it made changing plugs harder. So when it comes time to pull the engine it will be a good time to replaced the motor mounts and correct that issue.


Also ordered rear brake parts they will be here next so hope to start putting the rear brakes back together. Have a super busy week but I think I will have time.
 

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That rust where there are two pieces are spot welded is where the rust problem is usually going to bite you...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That rust where there are two pieces are spot welded is where the rust problem is usually going to bite you...
I'm planning on pulling the gas tank and cleaning that seam up, also the seams in the truck area I'm going to clean up and put new sealer on all of them. I can't remember what that stuff is called but I know I can buy new online.






Weekend update


Cleaned up the rear brake area and put new shoes, wheel cylinders, hardware and drums on both sides.



Got the seats and carpet out of the car my vac stopped working but will be it all vacuumed out this week.





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After all that work I started on the engine. I got new info and the engine was rebuilt in the mid 70s, in 78 the car got parked so it only had a few thousand miles on it. Well now the engine is frozen and won't turn by hand.



I have put Marvel Mystery oil and PB blaster in the spark plug holes hoping it will free up but it has been 5 days today and it still won't spin. I guess it is time to start taking the engine apart. I was thinking I would do brakes then engine but I really need to know how much the engine is going to cost before I spend all the money on a disc/power brake conversion and blow thru my budget only getting brakes and engine done. There are a lot of small stuff that needs to make it drive able so have to save some cash for those even if it means I keep drum brakes.


So plan this week is to pull valve covers and make sure the oil pump is turning, then pull heads off and find out which pistol is stuck. With the engine only have a few thousand I'm hoping I can clean it all up and put new rings maybe bearing and bolt it all back together and call it good for now. Maybe not the best way but if I can do that for a few hundred and make it run I can always rebuild it later.



Will still have to pull the engine to fix the motor mounts but if I can get it running and some brakes I can move it around easy and make pulling the engine a little easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
This weekend was very busy. Was up way to late friday night with friends, and my oldest had his Graduation party (high school) Sat so that was a short day. Sunday was a very slow lazy day trying to relax with the wife on the couch and went to other friends house for games.



Did get a few things done. Pushed the 2010 HHR (blown engine) out of the garage so I would have room to lay out the Mustang stuff better and have room for the engine "rebuild". Talked with a friend that knows some car guys that maybe one of them will do a engine swap on that car. Salvage yards want $200 for 4cy and if I can get them to swap it could sale the car for a lot more. I don't have time to do that project for sure so willing top pay someone to do that.



I posted in a different thread about the engine is frozen and won't turn I really wanted to get it freed up while still in the car but I don't think that is a option. Everything feels like it takes twice as much effort to do while in the car so went to Harbor Fright to get a stand and hoist. Got the stand but hoist they didn't have in stock so will go back next week and try again. My hope is I can get the engine out and freed up. Once that is done give everything a "refresh" with new rings, bearing, seals and drop it back in. While the engine is out I will clean up the engine bay. Thinking good cleaning, prime, paint, replaced brake lines, patch wires(found a few chewed thru) and replace motor mounts.



With no hoist next few weeks will be spent doing other things with the car, thinking cleaning up wheel wells and undercoating them, might not get all but can get started. A few years ago doing any body work scared me but now I find myself wanting to do body work because I have done it so much I understand all that. Never rebuilt a engine so little concerned that will be hard.
 

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It took me almost a month of putting a/t fluid and acetone in the cylinders of my 1964 falcon 289 before I could turn it over so don't be in a rush and a couple of months getting a stuck distributor free a couple years back. Patience will get it free.It is better when the engine is in the car as you can put more pressure on the bar or whatever you are using to try and turn it. Wes
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
So I have updated my outline.


Not going to put disc brake first new goal is to updated the steering and suspension, rebuild/refresh the engine, replaced front brakes with drums and get the car undercoated. Once all that is done I will look again at disc brakes I'm worried my budget will get blown doing lots of small things and won't be able to finish it all if I drop $1500 in brakes right off the bat. (That is $100 for rear drum, $125 new lines, $800 disc brake kit, $300 boosted MC, and plus other stuff I didn't count on.)


Over the weekend it was super hot in the garage couldn't work more then 30 mins without getting over heated so not a lot of progress this past week. Did get the front section removed and driver fender off. I got the driver fender area all cleaned up, primed and painted with under coating. The control arms should be arriving one day this week, was going to rebuild the control arms with new ball joints but after spending a hour to cut out rivets I decided to just buy new ones and save the time. Hoping to get them bolted on so I can remount the driver fender thursday or friday. Started to order the new bushing kit but if I replace the tie rods and control arms don't really need the full kit, so will just order the few other items I need to get all new bushings.



Still no hoist but should have a coupon coming in the mail for the 4th and will pick it up then. Once I get the hoist pulling the engine and will clean up the engine bay and repaint it all, once that is done I will pull the passenger fender and clean it like I did the driver side. I will take some picks of the finished inner fender tonight.



Still lots to do but being able to bolt something back on that is finished was a great feeling.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Got some photos of the inner fender I have cleaned up. When taking pics I didn't think about getting a true before and after shot I just took pics and keep moving forward.


I wire brushed everything to removed rust and dirt, then cleaned it all up all the dust off so I could paint. I then used a spray rust reformer on everything, then primed it all in a grey color, and finally painted it all with a spray undercoating. That last step added some texture to the flat areas but did run a little but I did it all pretty heavy knowing it needed to be pretty thick.


In the painted pics it does look like I painted over rust but that is old undercoating that really didn't want to come off so I left it and painted over.

Driver fender teardown (3).jpg

Driver fender teardown (4).jpg

Driver fender finish (1).jpg

Driver fender finish (3).jpg

Driver fender finish (4).jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Nicely done! It's dirty work for sure, but man, so satisfying to have it done.



Thanks


And I agree it is dirty and hot work but it felt really good to put the Outer shock tower back on after getting it all cleaned up. Really looking forward to putting the control arms back on this week also, with those in I can almost call the fender area finished that will be a party day for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
This was a long weekend with a lot of work on the car but don't think I got very far.



I did get the engine out so that is huge but it was way harder than is should have been. The clutch bar would not clear the steering box with the transmission attached.



With the engine out I could tell I have a issue with the driver side shock tower, it has moved toward the passenger side and that is what is causing my engine to shift that way too. Had 2 of the local Mustang guys stop by and they pointed this out to me, I could tell something was wrong but without knowing what things are supposed to look like I couldn't tell what my issue was. Going to start a new thread on that issue so I don't clog this one up but will updated here when I know what I need to do.



At this point the project is on hold until I can work out what I need to do next. Hoping to get a answer this week.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Today I will be moving forward again. I have spent some time measuring my frame and based on that info I think my frame, inner fender, and shock tower got tweaked years ago when it hit the rock. The car got repaired so it was drive able, then a few years later they put it on a frame rack and pulled it back into specs thinking that would fix the issue of it pulling when accelerating hard. When they did this the inner fender moved allowing the frame to get to the right spot but left the engine out of place.



Here are some pics of my inner frame and shock tower. I marked with a red line the areas that are out of place.



Mustang 7-4-2019 engine out (9).jpg

Mustang 7-4-2019 engine out (8).jpg


I know I can replace the inner fender and shock tower as one big unit but I don't want to cut that big of a section of the car out if I don't have to. My plan is to use a porta press to push the shock tower back to where is should be or at least closer than it is now. With the shock tower closer to where is should be my motor mount will be back to where is should be too this should fix the issue of pulling under acceleration. I have been working out how all this will happen and I'm pretty sure I can do it in a few hours got a buddy coming over today and we will give it a try. I know it might not be the "right" way to do it but based on tools I have access too it's the best option I have. If I fail I'm out $25 and a few hours but if it works I saved $600 and many hours so worth a try.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So over the weekend I have corrected most of the issues with the inner fender section in the above photos. I won't know for sure how close I got it until I start putting it all back together but I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. Started cleaning the engine bay and painting it. Tonight I hope to finish the transmission tunnel and start bolting the fenders back on.



I will post some pics once I get some. It was super hot over the weekend so could only work for about 30 mins before going back inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So everything got put on hold. I have a HHR that the engine gave up on so had to spend time dealing with all that. Short version is broken car is worth few hundred, shop wants $2,600 to rebuild engine, so I got a used engine for $400 and changed it my self. Hope to crank it tonight and be done with all that.


On the mustang I have most of the engine bay painted and started taking the engine apart last night. Lots of sludge in the oil pan but feeling thru it I don't feel any grit or metal bits so that is good. The fuel and water pumps look new and the gaskets could have been new too. Everything on the bottom end look very good only thing I see at this point is maybe some rings rusted to the cylinder walls. Plan is pull the pistons out this week going to mark each one so they go back into the correct holes and then need to figure out why the distributor doesn't want to move.




Really want to have this engine running on labor day weekend so not a lot of time but I think I can get it done.
 
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