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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The dreaded white dipstick. I changed the oil yesterday and I pulled the dipstick to check the oil level this afternoon.

In 2020 I changed the WP and intake manifold.

Last week I found a small puddle of antifreeze on top of the timing cover.

I'm guessing and hoping that the leak is one of the water ports between the head and manifold.

First thing I am going to do is put the torque wrench on the intake manifold bolts and see if any of them turn. I seem to remember torquing them to 22 ft lbs.

I'm not sure what I should do next.

$30 of Mobil 1 and my new Rotunda Gold filter down the drain.
 

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Don't get too rowdy cranking those intake bolts down! I've broken off a couple, and it's never fun. If none are actually loose, I'd buy an intake gasket set, and take it off. You may be able to see where it didn't make good seal, and why. I like to use a thin smear of RTV around both sides of the intake gasket at the water ports, to try and prevent this.

Not knowing about your engine, I'll mention one other thing: If you've milled the heads and/or decked the block, sometimes an intake may be touching at the china rails, and still not in contact with the head. To fix that, you either need to machine the bottom of the intake (not often possible), or the block itself, so it can sit down where it's supposed to, contacting the heads properly.

Adding to all this: often it's just the thermostat housing leaking! Or, it could be your water pump. Both will show on top of the timing cover on passenger side.

Edit: Can't be the thermostat making mayonnaise. It could be the timing cover though!
 

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delete....:cautious:
 

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When I was a young lad I learned the hard way from multiple failed head gaskets that you should lubricate the head and intake manifold bolts when you install them. A light coating of oil will give you better torque results. If the gaskets are already leaking, it's very unlikely re-torquing will help. The gaskets distort from the coolant squirting past them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
The PO rebuilt the engine 13 years ago, I have had the car three years and have put about 1500 miles on it. He said the rebuild had about 10k on it when I bought it.

He is an automotive machinist by trade and rebuilt the engine to stock specs. I don't know if he milled anything off the deck or heads.

Thinking back, IDK if I retorqued the intake after the install or not. I was having some health issues and the car was on the back burner for six months

I used a SS bolt kit for the manifold, if I did not retorque the bolts, that is probably the source of the leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I don't think retorquing the bolts will fix the leak, but it they are loose, at least I will know that is most likely the issue.

This takes the wind out of my sails, my new steering column will be here next week, the new radiator is here, I was planning on a summer of cruising with PS and AC.

It adds 2-days, if that is the issue, I just have to pace myself and not overdo it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I used Felpro MS901031 gaskets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
After reading through several threads I am going to order Felpro MS-90103-1 gaskets. My 65 289 has stock heads.

Ultra Black RTV for the ends, Aviation form a gasket around the water ports and MMC78 nickel antiseize for the SS bolts.

Should I also use the form a gasket around the intake ports as well?

Also, is there a p/n for the stud that the battery ground cable bolts to the block with?
 

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I put a light coat of rtv on both my intake gaskets, and some say to throw away the end seals and just use rtv. An intake job really isn't bad. One trick I learned with getting the intake on straight and true is to use some threaded rod just finger-tightened into the heads at the corners, set the intake down square, thread in the other bolts by hand and then replace the threaded rod with the corner bolts, and follow an even torque sequence like in the Ford shop manual. I've never had a leak from an intake, just a little one from a hose or thermostat housing.
NPD has the grounding hardware kit for a 65-66 289, and for a 67 I-6.
 

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Antifreeze in your oil is never good and once it starts circulating through the bearings and turning into mayo, it's even worse. One school of thought is just flush it with 1 or 2 quick oil changes and hope for the best. The other is to drop the oil pan and start pulling rod and main caps for a closer look and possibly new bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Antifreeze in your oil is never good and once it starts circulating through the bearings and turning into mayo, it's even worse. One school of thought is just flush it with 1 or 2 quick oil changes and hope for the best. The other is to drop the oil pan and start pulling rod and main caps for a closer look and possibly new bearings.
Wouldn't it be easier to pull the intake manifold and take a look before I start disassembly of the rotating assembly?
 

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You'll be fine because you caught it early, I blew a head gasket last summer, emptied most of the contents of the cooling system into the oil side of the engine while autocrossing at 6000+ rpm and the bearings were fine but I changed them anyway.
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When I was a young lad I learned the hard way from multiple failed head gaskets that you should lubricate the head and intake manifold bolts when you install them. A light coating of oil will give you better torque results. If the gaskets are already leaking, it's very unlikely re-torquing will help. The gaskets distort from the coolant squirting past them.
I light coat of oil makes the bolts spin easier and you can turn them further with the same torque setting. This results in a higher clamping force. You could do the same exact thing by just torquring them to a slightly higher value (with the dry bolt). This is why torque charts list two value for dry or wet (lubricated) bolts. Values are lower for wet. Both result in the same clamping force....which is what you are ulitmately after.
 

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Don't forget that the front cover to block is also another source of crankcase contamination due to corrosion around the water ports or porous castings. On the intake, don't forget some Aviation *** on the intake bolt threads.
 

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Wouldn't it be easier to pull the intake manifold and take a look before I start disassembly of the rotating assembly?
You already know you have mayo which means it's been pumped through the motor. Pulling the intake isn't going to tell you anything you don't already know. Putting eyes on the bearings now is what I would do because I've tried the other way and that didn't turn out too well. It's your motor and your call but from someone who has been down this road before, antifreeze doesn't flush out of the bearings very well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Don't forget that the front cover to block is also another source of crankcase contamination due to corrosion around the water ports or porous castings. On the intake, don't forget some Aviation *** on the intake bolt threads.
I have had good sucess using the MMC78 nickel antiseize on SS bolts. I want to be able to get them back out. Snapping off a SS bolt will really ruin your day.

Should I pull the WP and reseal it as well? The puddle on the timing cover reappeared after running the car about a minute. I put a black light on it but it is not showing were it came from.

I've got the battery, radiator, clutch, alt out anyway. It's not that much more to pull the WP. I replaced the WP the same time I replaced the intake manifold.
 

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I think you’re on the right path. Where you saw coolant earlier points to intake or water pump. If I were chasing this leak, I’d start with the intake and if you don’t see the failure there, move on to the water pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The compression blew my thumb out of the plug hole when the TDC mark was at 10 o'clock-ish.

I'm going to replace the balancer. All Summit has in Made in China, so who knows if what I get is any better than what I have.
 
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