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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings, I have a 66 vert that has a 68 302 in it. About 15 years ago I put in a high-volume water pump. Every once in awhile I noticed I have a leak on my timing chain cover.
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So I took the water pump off and discovered that where I had put gasket sealant on the backing plate the sealant had etched into the metal and rust had started a form and that's what caused my leak.
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So I was wondering if anybody else had ever experienced this? Also by the way these backing plates are a little hard to find for a small block. I could only find one seller on eBay and another from who I bought it from called dead nuts on.
I really wasn't having any overheating problems but it looks like I went a little crazy with the RTV.
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And lastly, I took the timing chain cover off while I was at it and do you guys use any threadlocker or anti seize on water pump or timing chain cover bolts?
 

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That is way too much sealer on the gasket as you noticed. Only a thin layer is needed. Just sand the rust off the backing plate, replace the gaskets and start over
 

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I've not had the rusting form before as you have around the sealant and gasket area. Permatex makes a specific water pump and thermostat sealant. I normally put some on my fingers and then just rub a slight coat all over the gasket and then install it. I didn't use any form of thread locker or thread sealant and have not had any troubles.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, I picked up a couple of tubes of what you are recommending in the link. I did not use thread dressing the last time and did not have any corrosion issues so I probably won't use it this time.
 

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So just at the top of your red circle in the first picture,the bolt for the water pump is to long and the black one looks like it is too long as well.
 

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One of the reasons why I loathe RTV silicone.... My sealant of choice, especially for water pumps, is Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket. It can also be used as a thread sealant and will let you obtain a proper torque reading vs. "dry" threads.
 

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One of the reasons why I loathe RTV silicone.... My sealant of choice, especially for water pumps, is Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket. It can also be used as a thread sealant and will let you obtain a proper torque reading vs. "dry" threads.
Yeah, you have to be careful with RTV, some ( many ? ) release Acetic Acid while curing. The red High-Temp is especially bed, it can actually burn your nostrils.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So just at the top of your red circle in the first picture,the bolt for the water pump is to long and the black one looks like it is too long as well.
The threads are striped on the top three bolts so i just drilled them out and put a extra long bolt and backed it up with a nut and lock washer. I put everything back together today. I use homemade dowels to line everything up. Took it easy on the rtv this time.
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The threads are striped on the top three bolts so i just drilled them out and put a extra long bolt and backed it up with a nut and lock washer. I put everything back together today. I use homemade dowels to line everything up. Took it easy on the rtv this time.
View attachment 741513 View attachment 741514
Did you use the balancer to align the cover to the block before tightening the bolts? Also, FWIW, copper is not a good solution for automotive fluid lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes I put the balancer on there to Center the timing chain cover. My transmission lines are nickel copper. It's stronger stuff than copper but at Bends a little easier than steel. Never heard of this stuff till I discovered they're using it for brake lines and transmission lines now. Thanks, mike
 
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