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Discussion Starter #1
I've read through a lot of the post here about water pumps, and I'm getting a little confused. Back plates, gaskets, and few other things I saw.

My water pump just died on me, and all be needing a replacement asap. Something that will bolt right on with no modifications.

So on to the specs:

1966 Mustang Coupe built on July 18th.
"C" code with original water pump and timing cover.

My options are 1) getting a replacement from NAPA, Checkers, or AutoZone. 2) This Milodon water pump.

Will the Milodon bult right up? Do I need a gasket or something? It says a high flow thermostat is highly recommended. Umm will 180 degree due?

Opinions appreciated as always.
 

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I'm assuming you have the cast iron water pump...

Personally, if your engine is stock or mild, I'd just get a standard rebuilt water pump and normal 160-180 degree T-stat (if yours needs maintenance; temp depends on location and climate)....I've run performance vehicles for years (including the race car) with OEM pumps and parts with no problems.

Keeping a good coolant package on board and keeping air out of the system with a properly functioning radiator cap and overflow recovery get top billing in my book, as long as the rest of the parts are in good shape...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I just replaced the t-stat(180) and housing. Upper and lower hoses are next while replacing the pump. I live in AZ.

Mods:
Edelbrock Performer Intake
Edelbrock Performer 600CFM Carb
1" Spacer
MSD Ignition

Is there anyway to test the radiator cap? Do I need a back plate? AutoZone asked me that.
 

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Yes, you'll need a backplate. The new water pump will probably come with a gasket for you to use. Also, when removing the old one, take note of where the bolts come from because there are a few different size bolts used and it becomes a puzzle to figure out what goes where.
 

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Is there anyway to test the radiator cap?

I would imagine radiator shops might have a mule to test the caps on (pressure/vacuum tank with guage and cap bung) but IME caps are pretty reliable....I just replace them every couple of years, usually when I service the cooling system.....since you're doing the vast majority of the system anyway, might as well replace it if it hasn't been replaced recently.

Also, try using distilled water and coolant if you can afford it...cuts down on mineral deposits...
 
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The backing plate confusion is only an issue for '65 cars. They changed the timing chain cover/water pump late in the 65 run so some cars have the backing plate and some don't.

The early 65 cars don't have the backing plate but starting in early June (I think) they made the change.

'66 cars should have the backing plate (unless the engine was swapped). You shouldn't even have to mention this when you as for the pump because when they go to check the part number there won't be a bunch of footnotes in the book like there is for the '65s (64 1/2, early 65, late 65).

I simply ordered a standard rebuilt pump for my stock 65 C coder and everything is fine. I even ended up with an original Ford part. It came with a gasket and I used it.

Someone visited my water pump replacement page last night and I suspect it was the original poster but I'll post the link anyway in case it wasn't and for the curious people out there.
 

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Is the backing plate visible? I know the 289 in my '65 is not original and I have not decoded its date coding. However, the pump bolts directly to the timing cover. Are the pumps with backing plates similar to (pardon the example) a small block Chevy that stradles the timing cover?
 

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If there are no holes in the middle area of the pump, AND you have two bolts through the water pump on the outer edge at approx. 7 o'clock and at 6 o'clock then you have the early pump and timing cover (no backplate). If you have two bolts through the water pump (next to the snout) at 5 o'clock and at 7 o'clock If there are no holes in the middle area of the pump, and the holes at the bottom edge feel like they have bolts coming through from the back, you have the later, '66 and up pump (with backplate). There is a third alternative, but I doubt that it applies.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, NAPA and AutoZone don't have one in stock. Plus they want me to come down and pay in advance for something I have never seen before.

Checkers has one for $29. That seems a bit cheap to me.

hmm /forums/images/icons/frown.gif
 

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Try Advanced Auto parts or partsamerica.com. I paid about $25 for a new (not rebuilt) water pump from Partsamerica.com (with the plate) before shipping.

They generally stock our water pumps. Have you determined which one you need?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I think that is the same one Checker has in stock for $29.

Partsamerica = Checker online store

Probably what all end up getting. The same one you have.

No problems I assume? Is says W/AC, but I don't have an A/C currently. Is this pump still compatible?
 

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No problems at all. The with a/c part is just a catch-all for cooling capacity flow (i assume) my car did not have a/c originally. It comes with a gasket between the plate and the housing, and the gasket for W/P to timing cover. Seal both with RTV (have remove the plate for this). I painted mine to look like aluminum, but to each his own. keep track of the bolts, and remember that your timing cover is aluminum, so be careful not to strip the threads. Clean the surface of the T/C thorougly.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks...

I belive the T/C is Cast Iron. Engine is a 66 289 and I belive they stoped with the aluminum at 65. Coudln't tell you for sure. Still has the factory paint on there.
 
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