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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, gonna go on an adventure and build my first manual. I picked up WC T5 as a winter project. I contacted Tony at Astroperf regarding parts. We talked a good 20 min regarding parts and upgrades, and expectations, related costs (no surprises) First piece of advice was to disassemble and assess the tranny before ordering anything.

I've already assumed this "rebuilt" T5 was nowhere close to being rebuilt. So, what I see now that the tail is off and top cover off, it has had a basic ebay rebuild; fork pads, seals, etc, but wasn't cleaned or hot-tanked. Surprisingly there was no gear or spline damage but the front aluminum retainer is marred pretty bad, its gonna get a steel replacement anyway. At the bottom of the case I found these parts...(pic). Plastic and aluminum, no steel.

Please help me identify what they might be. What I can see, a broken fork pad, and maybe pieces of broken fork. My belief is fork and pads were replaced previously, but tranny was never completely gone through.

I'll include some more pics of the retainer and gears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
My next step is to determine if synchro's are worth a darn, and a closer inspection of the inside of the case and gears. Will need additional shims, felt like the input shaft end play was at least .010 or better. Any input and suggestions would be appreciated, an extra set of eyes and extra knowledge never hurts.
 

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I’m having a hard time loading the pictures you posted so I can’t see everything.

Once you get all the gears off the main shaft you’ll be able to look at the synchros. Take a hard look at the friction material. If in doubt, order new ones.
It seems that it was shifted pretty hard in the past so you should probably get new synchro keys.
A basic rebuild kit will include shims.

Excessive gear wear should be pretty obvious. Usually most noticeable where the input shaft meshes with the cluster gear.

Also get a new shifter with adjustable stops. That can prevent damage to the forks.
 

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+1 The common "gear wear" is a "line" on the input and cluster caused by excessive end play. The best synchros are the carbon fiber ones, They have no grooves in the material , and the lining is black and somewhat porous looking.
THE most important tip I can give you from my decades of rebuilding them is go for ZERO end play on the input/output and cluster. With the case being aluminum it GAINS end play as the transmission warms up. Even minimum end play becomes TOO MUCH and aggressive driving will slowly destroy the gears. I also "tap" the end of the input to ensure all of the shims and bearing races are fully seated. Care must be excercised and not add preload ( extra effort to turn in neutral) since the ATF has lower film strength than 85-90 gear oil.
Randy
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Perf question, I notice on the T5 the tail assy supports the rear bearing race, tail assy being aluminum, to me, looks like an obvious weak point for the main shaft and rear bearing. Is there an upgrade to provide better rear bearing support on the main shaft beyond the rear tail assy case?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Side note. I should be able to clean up and deburr most, if not all the teeth with a fine tooth file. I don't see any major damage to broken teeth anywhere. Just need a better understanding of what's crap and should be replaced.
 
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