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Discussion Starter #1
Please list off you weight reduction modifications, in order from least expensive per pound lost(i.e. $0/lb driver losing weight or pulling carpet) to most expensive per pound ($4400/-65lbs=67$/lb for aluminum block).
 

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The least expensive is everything you can remove, pull out, unbolt, cut off, or burn off with a torch.

Everything else is too expensive. ;)

Sorry, I had nothing of real value to add, just trying to be humorous.
 

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Two things you need to think about are where you are taking the weight from and what affect the weight will have. A chassi engineering book I have states the following:

weight not attached to the drive line is a 1 to 1 weight ratio
weight rotating at wheel speed is 1 to 3 effective weight ratio
weight rotating at engine crank speed is a 1 to 15 weight ratio

for example changing a flywheel from stock to aluminum may save you 20 pounds, but will enhance performance more like a 300 pound reduction.
 

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And moving weight around will help too. As in moving the battery to the trunk or even moving the engine back an inch or two.
Then there is the old Ford Thunderbolt trick. Remove all the seam sealer and acid dip the body to make the steel thinner. Back seat deleat. Fiberglass bumpers and fenders, hood and trunk. Replace glass with lexan.
What is your goal? Are you building a race car? or just want a light street car?
 

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What are your goals? That will allow us to suggest what direction to go with weight reduction.

ex. Removing interior items is easy, but do you want passengers?
 

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Taking off weight is easier than the need to add weight :)

Aluminum intake and heads remove about 90 lbs on a small block.

Adding a 9 inch adds about 40 lbs
Adding Versailles rear disc brakes adds about 40 lbs
Adding a scattershield adds about 25 lbs
Adding a TKO 600 adds about 40 lbs
Adding frame connectors adds about 25 lbs
Adding traction bars adds about 10 lbs
Aging has added 40 lbs to me.
 

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...
Adding frame connectors adds about 25 lbs
Adding traction bars adds about 10 lbs
Aging has added 40 lbs to me.
hahaha, So then going on a diet would also be an effective weight reduction method lol.

Next would be striping the whole interior aswell as ones clothing. Just wear gym shorts and flip-flops.

No, but really. Anything made out of cast iron, that can be replaced with aluminum would be an effective route. Especially removing the weight from the front end, that's where the majority of the mustangs weight is at.

fiberglass or carbon fiber hood, fenders, bumper, up front would aide there. Aluminum intake, Heads, Flywheel, Brake calipers. Relocating the battery to the rear, that would all effectively better distribute the front to rear weight ratio. Just alone in battery would be pretty helpful, you pull 20 pounds from the front to put it in the rear, making a distribution of 40 pounds to the rear.

I like what MUTANG stated, that is pretty interesting. Makes me want an aluminum fly wheel that much more, My gf civic si she purchased from some dude, came with an aluminum fly wheel, it helps rev alot faster, compared to the stock si I've drove before.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The least expensive is everything you can remove, pull out, unbolt, cut off, or burn off with a torch.

Everything else is too expensive. ;)
Words to live by.

Mainly curious what others have done, and if it was worthwhile.
 

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Depends on what you want from the car, is it a track slut or do you want streetable amenities?

Do you care more about absolute weight reduction (dragstrip-type application) or are you trying to move weight off the nose (for balance)?

By the time you've got aluminum heads, intake, tubular headers, an Odyssey PC925 in the trunk, fiberglas hood, etc. - and then you run 12in or 13in discs, 225/50-16 or 235/45-17 tires, an oil cooler, some structural reinforcement and decent seats and you've gained back every pound you took off and then some.

My '65 convertible has all of the above, plus Vintage Air AC, probably another 100lb of steel in the structure, and I have no doubt that it's going to be 250lb heavier than stock once everything's wrapped up.
 

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Considering all the race-oriented questions you're asking, I suggest you read these books...

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection1.asp?Product=TO WIN

I'm in the same boat, in that I'm in the early stages of a racecar build (I'm assuming that's what you're doing considering your questions), and these books are awesome resources, and do a great job of giving you some fundamentals of racecar building and tuning.

You really need to know where you're going to race the car, though...as rulebooks differ on what can be removed, what materials you can use for certain parts, etc. It's impossible to give pertinent advice without knowing this, and very difficult when you throw pricing of each component into the equation...in building my '70, I'm not keeping track of things like weight savings per dollar. I'm not even sure what many of the discarded/replaced stock components weigh...many parts aren't being replaced for the purpose of weight savings, but for safety, performance, reliabilty, and ease of maintenance (basically, they're inadequate or not ideal for race use).
 

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Hey amorrow02, do you have a pic of your weber induction system on your engine under your hood? I love CAR PORN!
 

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In two words, Aluminum Heads. You take off weight on the front end and gain power. That is the simple answer, the longer more involved answer comes later...just watch this thread!
 

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In two words, Aluminum Heads. You take off weight on the front end and gain power. That is the simple answer, the longer more involved answer comes later...just watch this thread!
Aluminum heads, intake, and tubular shorties are the no-pain (that is, no other loss of features required) way to do it. I *think* (absent any real-world data) a single 4bbl is going to be lightest, with Webers, Weber-like independent-runner EFI , and late factory-type chefs-hat EFI somewhat heavier.

Moving the battery to the rear passenger footwell/trunk next to the fender/trunk behind the fender (take your pick, all have their adherents) is another easy win, though it doesn't result in a net weight reduction unless you also run a smaller/lighter battery (15ft of 2AWG welding cable has some heft to it.) For a real track car you can run an Odyssey PC680 which weighs 15lb or so, but it won't do the job in street use; an Odyssey PC925 will as long as you're not in the ice-belt and don't sit around running your stereo with the engine off.

An aluminum radiator will save you a couple pounds, that's about all.

From there, to get weight off the nose you've got to start throwing stuff out - front bumper and brackets, power steering, AC, etc. Some aftermarket front suspension combos will be lighter than stock, but most brake upgrades will be somewhat heavier.
 

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i don't know about $/lb, but some things I've done on my 65 include:

1. Aluminum heads and intake manifold.
2. Aluminum Radiator.
3. Custom aluminum crossbrace (convertible only)
4. Aluminum space saver spare wheel/tire.
5. Relocated Battery to rear.
6. Headers.

Of course, I've added a lot of weight too:

1. A/C
2. 4R70W in place of C4
3. Stereo system
4. Ralley Pac and extra gauges
5. EFI system
6. Subframe connectors.
7. Racing Crossmember.
8. Bigger front anti-roll bar.
9. Bigger wheels and tires (although since they are aluminum, that might be a wash).

Phil
 

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Words to live by.

Mainly curious what others have done, and if it was worthwhile.
I put my 65 fastback on a rather expensive diet but also selectively added weight. The largest and most effective weight reduction is in the front of the car, mostly engine. Also, there are overlapping benefits: weight reduction, weight redistribution, less rotating mass, more power, better cooling, etc..

I don't remember the exact weight or cost but this should give you an idea.

1. Aluminum Block -65-75lbs, $5k, (a bit extreme for non race cars)
2. Al heads - 45lbs, $1500 (good mod.)
3. Al intake - 25lbs, $170 (good mod.)
4. Al flywheel -20lbs, $300 (engine revs up quicker but is harder to launch. BTW, 15x=300lbs equivalent seems optomistic)
5. Al radiator -5lbs?, $200 (little weight, but in a good place and may help cooling)
6. Al water pump - 1-2lbs? (might as well if you have to replace the wp)
7. Al drive shaft -5lbs, $300 (engines spins up a little quicker, less vibration)
8. Mini starter -5lbs, $200 (better header clearance too)
9. Fiberglass hood -20lbs $300 (do this mod for appearance, not the weight savings)
10. FG front fenders -20lbs, $500 (I don't recommend this. Poor fitting for little saved)
11. FG front valance -3lbs, $150 (again, appearance over weight savings.)
12. Remove fold down rear set -40lbs, $250 because I replaced it with FB package tray)

For me the best bang for the buck is Al heads and intake. This is a quick 70lbs+ reduction where you need it most plus they can add considerable HP to the engine.
 

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4. Al flywheel -20lbs, $300 (engine revs up quicker but is harder to launch. BTW, 15x=300lbs equivalent seems optomistic)

Not my figures, Chassis Engineering, by Herb Adams. Page 109.. Good book, check it out.
 

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Aluminium Flywheels and Aluminium Driveshaft only work in the 1 and 2 gear very good later it´s not interesting you can say it so

1 gear it´s like you loose 300 lbs of car weight
2 gear only 150 lbs
3 gear only 75 lbs
4 gear only 30 lbs

I dont know how I can explain it better because my english is not perfect. But I think you know what I mean with this. Going down with the car weight is more effective for handling and for the acceleration in lower regions. So find a compromise between hp gains and weight reduction I think the best ist really to make the intake and cylinder heads beacuse you get hp gain, less weight in the front end and so better handling and traction in the rear. Greets Kent
 

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4. Al flywheel -20lbs, $300 (engine revs up quicker but is harder to launch. BTW, 15x=300lbs equivalent seems optomistic)

Not my figures, Chassis Engineering, by Herb Adams. Page 109.. Good book, check it out.
Just checked my copy and sure enough that's what he says. He also shows it's equivalent to a 32 HP gain. That is far more than I would have guessed by the seat of the pants.
 

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A light flywheel is also great for braking/slowing down. I see in SVRA some go with smaller multi-plate clutches that allow the use of much lighter flywheels...not a good idea for a street car, though.
 
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