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Incorporated Sell Out
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Well.....the final tally after $460 :: spent at the dyno shop.....290 rwhp at 5700 rpm and hovered in the 325-335 ft lbs range from 3100 - 4400 rpm. And techincally Art had the closest numbers, but he only rattled them off in chat so they don't count ;) Cloney said 287 rwhp/300 ftlbs and 7d said 310 hp and 330 ft lbs (I think he and I are gonna have to have a face to face so I can figure out how he is getting 430 rwhp :: )

Ok, so lessons learned....

1. anything but real world dynoing is absolutely worthless, and from now on if any one qoutes me a horsepower number, I will kindly ask if it was really dynoed ;) (and if I am feeling really miserable I'll say "lemme see the print out" ;) )


2. I dunno if it was the place I went to or not. But apparnetly 8:30 appointment means we will get around to strapping the first car on the dyno at 9:40 and then run it at around 10:00...then quickly strap the second one on that is getting tuned get first round numbers and then spend the next 3 hours dilly dailying between the dyno and other things for a total of 5 runs. In all honesty, Joe did a good job tuning.....the first pull netted me a wooping 230 hp (see attached graph). He changed the springs in the dizzy, re-timed it, and jetted the carb down for the final numbers...there was a pull of 295 in there, but he didn't print it off for some reason :( But we didn't get out of there until after 1:30 pm.....and then I got charged the $225 test and tune flat fee...and for 2 hours of labor...I was so tired I wasn't going to dispute the fast that he had less than an hour under the hood tuning according to my watch :(

So.....here is were I am at.

The car runs phenomenolly. With the latest bump in performance (230 to 290 hp) The whole way home on 95 I passed most people less than half throttle in OD......4 sec 2k to 4k (or 50 to 100) and on some occasions down shifted into third and got sucked into my seat at half pedal.

So here is my quandry. There is no doubt the car is fast. And right now it idles smooth like a puddy cat and it putting down almost 300 RWHP. No doubt with only a larger cam swap (since the car ran to 7100 or so on the dyno all day long) I can get a few more horses to the rear, and moaybe some porting and polishing since the heads are essentially bone stock in that area. Is it even worth adding these item to the list of things to do to the car in the near future, or just leave it as it is. Right now, the car feels and acts like it could be a daily driver. It starts right up anytime. It just drove home in stop and go rush hour traffic for 2 hours with out ever getting past 1/2 in the temp.....what are all your thoughts?

Right now I am leaning towards the drive it, get used to it, see if the car is still able to cash the checks the motor writes now. Install the stereo I have, add a radiator, put in the seat belts, maybe add those too cool streetortrack struts, and enjoy the car every pleasant day for the next 6-12 months.

http://users.zoominternet.net/~dodgeram/dynoresults.jpg
 

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I have always dynoed all of my engines, and I have always told all of my friends to do the same. But, I usually do it on an engine dyno......The same thing applies..I always make the same bet with my friends. I always bet them that they will pick up at least 25HP and typically around 50. If you have a big block something, it isn't unusual to get 75hp by spending a few hours on a dyno. Well, I have never lost that bet.........It is always a well spent $500 (except when your racing partner owns 2 dyno's, and you don't have to pay much)

Gary......::
 

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Hmm, not as high as I was expecting...

My 0.0002c worth would be to have fun with it for a while. You spent ages building it, would be a bummer to put it away for a while and rip it apart. Enjoy the Summer, then tear into it over Winter...

Oh yes, of course you need to add those 'too cool streetortrack struts' right NOW to enjoy your driving even more! :p
 

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Nick,

Looks like you have great power everywhere in the rpm range. I'll bet that car really puts you back in the seat ::. Peak numbers are great, but power under the curve is what gets the job done, especially on the street.
 

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If I figured this right, you should have around 447 ft-lbs at the flywheel... and the torque curve is very broad. I say give it a chance for a while & enjoy it. I have no doubt it runs very strong & it sounds well mannered from your description. My project had no drivetrain when purchased, and I've been working on it as time & money allow for 4 years. I'm getting pretty close to re-assembling everything & getting it on the road, but have never driven it to date - so here's one vote to keep the Pony on the road.

Doug
 

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I would also agree that it would be a good idea to enjoy the car for awhile.....and save some money for them high port heads ;)

I would agree with Gary that spending time on the dyno is time/$$$ well spent....I have seen alot of engines pick up close to 45 ponies by fine tuning.....it is also a good time to find any problem areas....leaks etc..

The AOD does sap some power so the numbers reflect the drivetrain loss.....the final result is still a respectable sum of torque. I bet that bad boy moves!!!

I'd keep the heads stock and do the above....aluminum high port heads.
Shaves weight while providing better port design for higher port airflow velocities throughout cams powerband.

How does DT handle now? And how does the car take the power with the low profile tires? It sure looks good!!
 

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Incorporated Sell Out
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Discussion Starter #8
One of the things that was suggested to me was to swap out the high stall converter for a standard type converter and see how the car responds. I have a 22/2500 11 inch converter now. If I can find a 10 inch model down in the 1200-1500 range (very close to stock) I should be able to run on the street a little better and probly have a longer power band since all my components are supposed to start making power at about 2500 on a 351 (the 410 cubes moves that power band a little lower), because of the stall Joe just ran the dyno charts from about 3100 and up to make sure he didn't get any bad reading. Anyone know if the sell a 10 converter with that low of a stall? The smaller diameter will also let a few more ponies into the tires ;)...my converter is also a lock up converter. ONce it is 3rd gear it is locked so there is no slipping and at 1500 in 3rd with it locked, the car pulls the same as 3500 in third.

The car handles pretty good, its got a little bump steer that I know the new struts will cure. It corners well, has wonderful throttle response on the highway and after it gets above the stall numbers it runs well on the small streets.
 

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You were a little off from your prediction last night in the chat room....

Quote;
dodgestang65: So my offical prediction is 400 rwhp and 408 ft lbs at 6150

Time for a pair of stickies and white shoe polish! ::
 

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1. anything but real world dynoing is absolutely worthless, and from now on if any one qoutes me a horsepower number, I will kindly ask if it was really dynoed ;) (and if I am feeling really miserable I'll say "lemme see the print out" ;) )
I could not agree more! I've seen plenty of hp claims around here lately but not many dyno sheets. Bench racing can be fun, but lets call it what it is.

Congratulations on your "awakening". :) I've been saying since my first dyno last year that it's the best and quickest way to dial in a given engine.

Now that you know where you are, you can figure out where you want to go.

Good luck. ;)

BTW here's my dyno sheet from yesterday. ::

http://a7.cpimg.com/image/E3/62/21501667-f67c-0200018B-.jpg

Click my sig for the info on the car.
 

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It is just like everyone you talk to has or had a ten second
car quarter mile.Most people do not understand what it take to run fast,it is not just horsepower but the total package.And yes I always ask for a time slip,shuts them up real fast. Robert
 

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If you have an 11" converter now and want lower stall, you'll be looking at a larger converter not smaller. Switching to a 10" unit would probably put you at >3000rpm.
 

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Wow, I really thought you would be much higher in both hp and tq. :( With my W(.030 over, World Sr heads, Comp Magnum 292), last December on the dyno it pulled 267hp @ 5800 and 273ft lbs tq @ 4400. I would have expected much more out of your stroker. I guess that is my inexperience talking.

Maybe I need to rethink my next powerplant?? :: ::
 

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Nick, your car made good power for the cam you're running. You pick up a lot of HP and drivability by getting it dynoed. The amount of money you spent on the tune is cheaper than most parts people try. This is the only true way to know. The way I made 428rwhp was with a solid roller cam that .244 @.50 and .623 lift. The Jessel rockers gave me about 20 more. Before them it was about 409. The cam is the secret. My heads are 1970 closed chamber with no port work at all. If I were you I would drive your car and enjoy it. With that cam it will be very streetable. My car is very streeable too, except for the idle and gas mileage. Enjoy it and if you decide you want to go faster you can always make a change in a year or so.
Are you coming to Hatboro tomorrow??? RAY
 

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Hehehe.......Now, I could remind DT what my 289 made on the dyno about a month ago.......But, I won't!

Gary........::
 

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Discussion Starter #19
hehhe.....I might remind someone what my monster truck can do to their army of clones ;)


but I won't.

j/k

I will have more power out of it soon enough....but look at my nice flat torgue curve....I mean common on thats gotta be worth something ;)
 

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1. anything but real world dynoing is absolutely worthless, and from now on if any one qoutes me a horsepower number, I will kindly ask if it was really dynoed ;) (and if I am feeling really miserable I'll say "lemme see the print out" ;) )
Couldn't agree more.

2. I dunno if it was the place I went to or not. But apparnetly 8:30 appointment means we will get around to strapping the first car on the dyno at 9:40 and then run it at around 10:00...then quickly strap the second one on that is getting tuned get first round numbers and then spend the next 3 hours dilly dailying between the dyno and other things for a total of 5 runs. In all honesty, Joe did a good job tuning.....the first pull netted me a wooping 230 hp (see attached graph). He changed the springs in the dizzy, re-timed it, and jetted the carb down for the final numbers...there was a pull of 295 in there, but he didn't print it off for some reason :( But we didn't get out of there until after 1:30 pm.....and then I got charged the $225 test and tune flat fee...and for 2 hours of labor...I was so tired I wasn't going to dispute the fast that he had less than an hour under the hood tuning according to my watch :(
Too funny. I was scheduled for an 8 am dyno run on a monday morning, BAD idea. They told me to get there at 7:30. I did to find 2 trailered cars waiting for the gates to open (luckily they broke that Sun at the races and only needed repairs). The workers start showing up and then bring out donuts. Donuts & bench racing (story time) commence and the gates open at 8:40. The broken cars are pushed into the repair bays and they tell me to pull into the dyno bay. Finally my run is at 9:59. More bench racing, etc... before they write me up and I leave about 11:30. Can't complain though cause they were a great bunch of guys and I had a blast. 338.9 rwhp & 335.5 rwtq with lots of room for improvements ::
 
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