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Discussion Starter #1
I finally got the courage to tackle an exhaust leak on my '66 200 cid yesterday. The horror stories I've read and heard about breaking a bolt had me running scared for a while. I had been soaking the bolts in PB Blaster every night for a week and the manidold had a gasket installed, so I knew the manifold had been off the car at least once. I threw caution to the wind and all of them loosened but two. Of course the two I had problems with were the closest to the firewall. I've read some posts about leverage and the ears from either the head or manifold breaking off, so I only attempted them a few times before conseeding defeat. Yeah they scare me. I don't have too much mechanical experience though I'm wanting to learn. Am I using the wrong tool? I'm using typical 6 point socket with different extensions to get out past the manifold edge. Also, the manual said nothing about removing the starter, but it seems to be right in the way, not allowing me to get the socket on square with the bottom manifold bolt closest the the firewall. Any advice? Is a starter hard to remove and reinstall? I know these seem like dumb questions and probably elementary to most, but since I don't know, I have to ask.
 

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My Uncle once used a little propane torch to apply heat to the situation. This broke the corrosive bond between the bolt and the block. Don't try this without waiting for more advice though, he is known for being a bit "backyard" with his methods, alhtough this one worked perfectly for me.
 

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take a blowtorch and aim it at the bolt, but make sure you're not heating up anything else. heat the nut for 30 seconds and then try to get the bolt off. Make sure there is no pb blaster left around the manifold because it's flammable.
 

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I was in the same position as you a few years ago. The exhaust manifold removal on my I6 was my first big job as well. It probably had more rust than yours. I don't think it had ever been removed. I soaked the bolts with PB Blaster for a week, then I used a torch to heat them up. I bought a Craftsman Bolt Out set to help with the rusty, rounded-off bolt heads. That really saved me. I did not break any bolts, and I replaced the manifold with a dual outlet exhaust header.

If the starter is in your way, you can easily remove it. That is the first repair I did on my Mustang when I was 16.
 

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Yeah, try putting some heat on it. I soaked mine in PB blaster fro months haha and I still had a few bolts break off in there. It sucks, but the nasty sound of an exhaust leak sucks worse. once you break off a bolt you have to drill the old one out and re tap the hole. It's not to hard, it is just time consuming. When you put the bolts back in there MAKE SURE you use TONS of anti-seize on them. That way if you ever have to take them out again(which you prob will) they will come out very easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Guys! Since I could not get the last two bolt out, I tightened everything back up, thinking I might just take it to the shop and let them do it. I may try the steps you suggested with the torch. Do need to worry about any gas (residual) being in the intake manifold? After I tightened everything back up, I cranked it and the bolts began to smoke, as did the exhaust pipe where it connects to the manifold. I assume it's just the residual penetrant burning off. I wiped everything down and cranked it again and did this cycle several times with less smoking each time. I don't want to burn my car to the ground, that's for sure.

Dude, I too would like to use a header ($ pending). Which header brand and finish did you go with? Did you use the port divider that I've read so much about?
 

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I bought the header from Ford Six Performance. It was the first header they sold. The brand is Pacemaker. I chose the Jet Hot finish, but it did not last too long. It burned off at the end of the outlet pipes and in little spots here and there on the main pipes. It would have cost too much to ship it back to FSP and get it recoated. I think FSP should have been responsible for the shipping costs, but they wouldn't cover it.

I bought the port divider from Clifford Performance. I used Resbond 907GF epoxy to install it.
 

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Thanks Guys! Since I could not get the last two bolt out, I tightened everything back up, thinking I might just take it to the shop and let them do it. I may try the steps you suggested with the torch. Do need to worry about any gas (residual) being in the intake manifold? After I tightened everything back up, I cranked it and the bolts began to smoke, as did the exhaust pipe where it connects to the manifold. I assume it's just the residual penetrant burning off. I wiped everything down and cranked it again and did this cycle several times with less smoking each time. I don't want to burn my car to the ground, that's for sure.

Dude, I too would like to use a header ($ pending). Which header brand and finish did you go with? Did you use the port divider that I've read so much about?
Jeff,

You should always, always, always have a fire extinguisher near your car in the garage, or better yet, safely mounted in the car.
 

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I prefer to heat the iron around the bolt, since heating the bolt can cause the bolt to go from Grade 5 to Grade Nuthin'.
 

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Thanks Guys! Since I could not get the last two bolt out, I tightened everything back up, thinking I might just take it to the shop and let them do it. I may try the steps you suggested with the torch. Do need to worry about any gas (residual) being in the intake manifold? After I tightened everything back up, I cranked it and the bolts began to smoke, as did the exhaust pipe where it connects to the manifold. I assume it's just the residual penetrant burning off. I wiped everything down and cranked it again and did this cycle several times with less smoking each time. I don't want to burn my car to the ground, that's for sure.
The smoke is coming from the PB Blaster burning off. There shouldn't be any gas by the intake manifold since that's only where air goes in.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Dude, I have spent a good bit of time on the Ford Six site, drooling over the parts. Maybe one day I will be able to switch it out for the header. Right now, I think I'm forced to go with what I have and replace the gasket.

Lunarweasel, you are absolutely right, I should have that available. I will do that before proceeding. I'll check and see what the local parts house has in way of extinguishers.

22GT, I plan on replacing the bolts and studs with new hardware so maybe that will help in getting out the next time.

Guy's I really appreciate you all! It's great to talk with those that have experience and can help guide a novice like myself. I will keep you updated and let you know how it turns out.
 

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I broke off the last bolt closest to the firewall when I changed my son's out. Lots of PB didn't do a thing for that one...but it did for the others. I had to remove the starter, as well. I purchased the correct bolts/fasterners from NPD and coated the heck out of them with anti seize as mentioned above. The Sears extracters worked like a champ for those that got rounded. Had to drill and tap the broken one. Be very careful with that though. I was fortunate and took it very slow with the drilling. The tap simply removed the remaining metal out of the threads and it was a piece of cake at that point! Use lots of WD40 or other lubricant when tapping these things out and it will help out tremendously in getting it correct. BTW, my son exited the partnership on the replacement when his knuckles got ever so slightly skinned on the bolt removal! And that wasn't even the one that broke! Teenagers, what are you gonna do!!!??? This was 4 years ago and now he comes back to "re-learn" things from time to time! Gotta love him...and he loves that 66!

Al
 

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Be glad you're not doing this on a 390 while it's in the car! LOL
Stan
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Mustang Charly, sounds like heat won't help me then, right? If the metal expands, seems like the grip of the iron on the bolt will become tighter, correct? Just making sure I understand. With the presence of the residual PB Blaster, not sure I'm comfortable using much of either heat or more penetrant. I'm going to try to remove the remaining two as they are. Nothings going to get fixed by leaving it the way it is right? No guts, no glory!? May try it this evening, I'll let y'all know what happens.
 

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Mustang Charly, sounds like heat won't help me then, right? If the metal expands, seems like the grip of the iron on the bolt will become tighter, correct? Just making sure I understand. With the presence of the residual PB Blaster, not sure I'm comfortable using much of either heat or more penetrant. I'm going to try to remove the remaining two as they are. Nothings going to get fixed by leaving it the way it is right? No guts, no glory!? May try it this evening, I'll let y'all know what happens.
Youll be fine. Using a blowtorch will help. Its always helped me remove bolts. as long as you dont have a puddle of pb, youll be fine. It won't ignite. And youve already burned some of the pb off. That's why you saw some smoke.
 
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