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Started the conversion from power to non-power brakes






Still have to reattach the clutch cable, the rear brake line (adapter on the way), and the all fun of bleeding the brakes.


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welded up the fresher air cowl vents. Made the start of a mount for the airbag controller.. put sides on the new radio mount.
 

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I went to the last South Bend Region SCCA autocross event today, cold and damp, and beat the crap out of my car for the last time this year at the Tire Rack test track. I can't thank TireRack.com enough for allowing us to use their track in these times!
 

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why the conversion from Power Brakes?...
Honestly, this is one of those “addressing sins of the past” type of thing.

When I got the car, it actually had ok braking performance. Drums all around, with power assist. When I changed to a manual transmission, I had to change brake boosters, cause the one that was on it was too wide, taking up space where the clutch cable would run. I also changed to stock type discs in the front and explorer discs in the rear. So the new booster and m/c set that went in never felt right after that. Pedal was lower, and I had to press pretty far before it would start to brake. Bled the system a million times, still kinda so-so.

Then, I switched to a big disc brake kit in the front (From SoT). Braking performance improved, but still kind of a ****ty pedal feel, and the brake pedal still sat low, and didn’t engage until late in travel.

Additionally, last time I took it for a drive, I took temps of the front and rear discs. The rears were about 25-30 degrees hotter than the fronts. I think either the m/c or the distribution block has a residual pressure valve built in. So yeah, my rears are dragging unnecessarily. Or so it may seem. The distribution block is the same one that came with the car, and hell if I remember what MC i got 10+ years ago.

The power and manual brake pedals have different ratios.. the power pedal was sloppy (the fulcrum was worn pretty badly). And it could only come forward so far, because the clutch pedal fulcrum was in the way. Now, with the manual pedal, it rides on the same fulcrum pin as the clutch does. The pedal already sits much higher, in a better position than it was with the power set up.

Lastly, the Wilwood m/c that I got comes with a proportioning valve. So there’s no “accidental” residual pressure valve built in, and I can dial in brake bias to my liking.

I probably could have gone thru some diagnostics to properly figure out why I had the poor performance I was experiencing, but given the overwhelming love for manual brakes on this site, plus the fact that I don’t have much vacuum at idle anyway, I figure it’s worth the effort.

Fixing sins. Hopefully.

Sorry for the long post... you asked ;)


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I am counting the hours of my last work night (I DO love my work and try to make the most I can of it while here) but kind of wishing my life away til I can get to "off" days so I can drive my Mustang and work on my sons' cars. I'm kind of at the top of my game but I just can't help wanting to get back behind the wheel, under the hood, tools in my hands, and I wanna DRIVE for no reason at all.
 

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Honestly, this is one of those “addressing sins of the past” type of thing.

When I got the car, it actually had ok braking performance. Drums all around, with power assist. When I changed to a manual transmission, I had to change brake boosters, cause the one that was on it was too wide, taking up space where the clutch cable would run. I also changed to stock type discs in the front and explorer discs in the rear. So the new booster and m/c set that went in never felt right after that. Pedal was lower, and I had to press pretty far before it would start to brake. Bled the system a million times, still kinda so-so.

Then, I switched to a big disc brake kit in the front (From SoT). Braking performance improved, but still kind of a ****ty pedal feel, and the brake pedal still sat low, and didn’t engage until late in travel.

Additionally, last time I took it for a drive, I took temps of the front and rear discs. The rears were about 25-30 degrees hotter than the fronts. I think either the m/c or the distribution block has a residual pressure valve built in. So yeah, my rears are dragging unnecessarily. Or so it may seem. The distribution block is the same one that came with the car, and hell if I remember what MC i got 10+ years ago.

The power and manual brake pedals have different ratios.. the power pedal was sloppy (the fulcrum was worn pretty badly). And it could only come forward so far, because the clutch pedal fulcrum was in the way. Now, with the manual pedal, it rides on the same fulcrum pin as the clutch does. The pedal already sits much higher, in a better position than it was with the power set up.

Lastly, the Wilwood m/c that I got comes with a proportioning valve. So there’s no “accidental” residual pressure valve built in, and I can dial in brake bias to my liking.

I probably could have gone thru some diagnostics to properly figure out why I had the poor performance I was experiencing, but given the overwhelming love for manual brakes on this site, plus the fact that I don’t have much vacuum at idle anyway, I figure it’s worth the effort.

Fixing sins. Hopefully.

Sorry for the long post... you asked ;)


Sent from the interwebs... where else?
this was great info here brother...appreciate the wisdom. i am actually considering upgrading the rear end to a 8.8 with disc brakes from an explorer myself.
 

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Finally a day with pleasant temps and no hurricanes to worry about in Lower Alabama. Spent the afternoon cleaning the BFG Radial T/A RWLs. I know there are a lot of those that aren't fond of BFG but I have always liked the look of their RWL.....

Except this last set.

I bought these about 3 years ago and from day one they like to turn a brownish hue. This necessitates an often 2 hour scrubbing and cleaning to bring them back to what my old set, approximately 2010 date, ALWAYS look like.

Finally fed up, I fired off a message/complaint to BFG this afternoon and received a response to contact them during regular business hours to "discuss" this issue. I know am not the only one that has experienced this as I've read many different posts/complaints about it. We'll see what they have to say this week.

John

BEFORE:
View attachment 768822

AFTER:

View attachment 768823
A follow-up to my post regarding the browning of the RWL tires. I spoke with BFG customer service this afternoon and they opened up a case number. They are recommending replacement as this is not a normal condition. I have to go to a BFG dealer with the case number so they can verify the date codes of the tires and that they fall within the 6-year warranty time frame. According to the CSR I spoke with, once that is done, the dealer should be able to order new tires and swap out at no expense to me.

Again, I will do a follow-up post once I go to my local dealer and see what type of resolution is offered.

John
 

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@subpar63 , I had browning letters on my BFGs years ago, and my last two sets of tires I have gotten blackwalls on one and turned the white letters in on the other just so I haven't had to fool with it.
 

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A couple of months ago I located and reached out to who I believed to be the son of the original owner of my car on Facebook. I honestly didn't know whether to expect a response or not, my folks did buy the car from them 47 years ago after all.

Out of the blue today I got a response, not only was it his dad's car, it was HIS first car that he "bought" from his parents with lawnmowing money when he was in high school. He and his high school sweetheart/now wife dated in it. He had his dad sell it so he could use the proceeds as a down-payment on a '71 Charger. Couple of other stories were mentioned and will be followed up on at a later date.

We exchanged numbers and I agreed to keep him posted on major milestones during the restoration and he agreed to look for any old pics in photo albums that he might have of it.

Just happy to have some additional history for the 5-6 years of the car's life that were before we bought it.
 

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@Rhythim A couple of years ago, I found the number for and respectfully called the original owner of my 1966 Mustang. He was, of course, much older now and couldn't remember a lot about the details of the original purchase, but it was kind of cool for me at least to be able to say I spoke to him. I have the original title with his name on the front and a record of each owner since. I hope it's a long time before it changes hands again! Congratulations on writing a new chapter in your Mustang's history !
 
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It was a busy and messy day. I finished the body work on the cowl, ordered some shock mounts for the front. resanded the whole car, minus the fenders. Then made it all one color. Its primer, but it does look somewhat closer to done.
 

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My son was going to be late for school so I drove him right to the front and was going to drop his Mustang at his parking spot later. I love the car myself, so I decided to give it a quick bath for him. After I washed it, I rolled the windows down and opened the driver floor vent for some fresh air and a quick run to dry it. I got a face full and a lap full of soap suds!! The cowl didn't leak but the foam stuck around a few until I got the wind going haha !!
 
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Doing an oil separator for my '67 Mustang. Made a mounting plate that will mount to the two upper studs on the heater motor. I then made a clamp bracket out of 1/2" aluminum to mount the oil separator I bought. I'm happy the way it came out.
67 oil separator assembly.jpeg 67 oil separator bracket .jpeg 67 oil separator mtg plate.jpeg
 

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It was a busy and messy day. I finished the body work on the cowl, ordered some shock mounts for the front. resanded the whole car, minus the fenders. Then made it all one color. Its primer, but it does look somewhat closer to done.
What did you do after lunch?
 

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Topped the fluids, put air in the tires, cleaned all the dust off, and then went for a 9+ hour roundtrip to Phoenix and back. On the way home, got stuck in a 10 mile long traffic jam between Phoenix and Tucson while a construction crew resurfaced100 feet of roadway that's going to be torn out in a couple of years when the area is widened to three lanes. No problems with the car at all...fun doing that all in first gear the whole time.
 
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