Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
409 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
... my mood and wallet to be specific.

Happy that my transmission is painted and ready for install (sometime in August) I decided to take off the bubbling paint above my passenger roof rail. A 5 inch crack in the paint allowed the water in and the bubbles just started creeping upward. What flaked off didn't look TOO bad... I was hoping I could get away with some 40 grit paper on the drill, prime/paint and make it look decent from a distance until the money for body work comes around....

I took it to a recommended bodyshop and when he saw it his instant and only reaction was, "we'll have to cut that part of the roof out and replace it" :: Naturally I thought he was smoking something so I thanked him and decided to just do it myself and hope it came out alright.

Rust removing wheel and 40 grit later, the side slope of the roof looked manageable... but the rust kept going down :( I ended up cutting away some of the seam sealer and it looks like the water has gone down UNDER the sealer... and who knows how far forward and backward from there. I fear roof rail replacement but I wanted to post here first. Here's how it is right now. The bare metal is where the bubbles were, the rust is the side of the roof where I cut the sealant away. The whole thing is about 7 inches long.

http://home.rmci.net/passmore/kevinpics/roofrust1.jpg


Ok... is there ANYTHING I can do to hold off the rust.. maybe slow it down a little for a year or so? Some primer, fill the hole with sealant then prime/paint? There's other areas that are rusting that could use attention too, and I wanted to do all of it at the same time, but funds just aren't available right now. Not to mention this is a daily driver and I can't take it off the road just yet. The brown area above is solid, but well rusted... the chunks that came out were like dirt :: I had hoped to trade in the 96 on a 2005 when they came out, but at this point I'll probably have to drive the 96 into the ground so I can pay for the emergency surgery on the 66 :(

HELP!
 

·
Gone but never forgetten
Joined
·
25,239 Posts
Get all the rust exposed and at least very well wire brushed. Then go after it with the POR products. Use the metal prep, then POR-15, then tie-coat primer. Use some body filler over the top of that, prime and paint. That should get you by for at least a few years, possibly much longer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
409 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Ok... which would be better to replace the seam sealer: POR Patch or 3M Seam Sealer? While I"m doing this I might as well fix the crack in the paint between the rear window and quarter panel that's doing the same thing more or less.. drip drip into the trunK :(

Looks like the Super Starter Kit on the POR-15 site is in order. How important is the tie-coat primer? Will a regular spray primer work or will POR 15 reject anything but the tie-coat? I definitely don't need a full can (wish they'd put a sampler in the starter kit).

Thanks for the help... just wish I wasn't going away for 3 weeks tomorrow morning. Also wish it wasn't raining for the first time in 2 months tonight!! At least it's in a car port. Damn Idaho weather!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,960 Posts
JohnPro has the right idea EXCEPT I would definitely bead blast the area with baking soda.....(smaller media does a better job of cleaning crevices
especially important to limit the effects of rust)

once the area is clean, do the metal prep and use epoxy sealer on exterior part with Por15 on the interior side...

Hope this helps
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,060 Posts
CA pony has something there. Before any top coatings go on, treat the metal with metal prep to remove and kill the rust.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top