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Discussion Starter #1
I'm wondering what grade and brand of oil works best in our winter climate. After I did my 4V conversion I changed oil to my old standby Castrol GTX 10-40. After oil change I noticed a difference (could be 30 deg weather also)...anyway at cold startup I get about 5 seconds lifter tapping which immediately quites down. I have bone stock heads and no real history on engine, except 67K no smoke no oil leaks and sounds good.

Likely this is somewhat normal, just more curious what others are running. I'm sure this will get into the ol synthetic debate...fire away. :biggrin:
 

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Mobil 1 15W-50 :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:
 

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All of my pre-2000 cars/trucks get stright 30w, usually Valvoline....never had a problem ::
 

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Discussion Starter #5
OK...I'll bite. Any of you synthetic guys have any issue with leaking seals? I run Mobile 1 in my Tundra 4.7L but figured I'd run dino oil in the Mach and change 2x per year...I would only prob. put 1500 on between changes.

Also...anyone change oil weight in winter?
 

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Any of you synthetic guys have any issue with leaking seals?
You think I'd let my car take, I mean have a leak??? Not a chance. That'd drive me nuts, and after what Mr. Schall went through at Pony Trails last year, no thanks. No leaks here. :biggrin: :biggrin:
 

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Castrol 10w30on the new engine . Will switch to Mobil 1 once I have a few miles on the engine . Expensive oil change since I have an aluminum cobra pan . Oh well .
 

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OK...I'll bite. Any of you synthetic guys have any issue with leaking seals? I run Mobile 1 in my Tundra 4.7L but figured I'd run dino oil in the Mach and change 2x per year...I would only prob. put 1500 on between changes.

Also...anyone change oil weight in winter?
Remember - synthetic oil's main advantage is the protection it gives at start-up.


I run Mobil 1 in all 5 cars, 3 of which are daily drivers. As far as leaks are concerned none of the cars have developed any leaks despite claims that if you put syn. oil in a high mileage car it will always leak. I sold a minivan to our neighbor that had 116k miles on the original engine when we bought it and I started putting Mobile 1 in it right away. We sold it 8 years later with 228k miles and it never leaked a drop. SWMBO's car is the only car we've used syn in since new and with 47k miles there are no oil related problems to report.

This is me and your practices may vary but I run 10w-40 in every car including the 65. I change around 5k miles (Twice a year on the 65) and I keep the same grade in the winter. Summers can hover above 100 and winters can stay below zero at times and I've never changed grades depending on climate.

change 2x per year...I would only prob. put 1500 on between changes.
That's a good idea. If you don't drive in the winter moisture can build up in the engine with repeated warm up and cool down of a shop or running the car for short periods and I would want it out before I put it on the road in the spring. And you don't want oil you've used all summer sitting in there all winter. Of course originally from Oregon I remember salt not being an issue so you guys probably get to enjoy your cars once in a while during the winter, don't you? :wall:

- Just my 2 cents worth.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Of course originally from Oregon I remember salt not being an issue so you guys probably get to enjoy your cars once in a while during the winter, don't you?
It's rare when they need to salt roads in this area....prob. happens 3-4 times per year tops in my immediate area. So far I usually can get out at least every 2 weeks without getting the car wet. I'm trying to not expose the car to any more of the elements then necessary. The whole synthetic deal doesn't seem to be worth it for a car that gets 2-3K per year...not cost effective...and as far as startup protection, well since its a fair weather car, it's not started often enough to justify IMO. But then again....when has cost been a factor with a classic. :rolleyes:
 

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Amsoil for my diesel and will do the same for the mustang after the break in period.
Careful with that Amsoil in the 6.0 Danno. Your Ford warranty specifically states "API certified oil", and Amsoil isn't. My understanding is it's great oil, but I believe there have been warranty issues with it's use.
 

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Mobile 1. I have no idea why. The stuffs real expensive, so that makes it good, right?
It goes without saying that just because something's expensive doesn't necessarily make it good. Study up on synthetic oils and the benefits they provide then consider that manufactures claim anywhere from 7k to 10k miles before a change is recommended depending on driving conditions. Now consider that you could feasibly go 3 times farther on a single oil change but for these purposes we'll say 6k since that's where I usually change mine after dragging my feet to do it.

Let's say you change your oil every 3k miles and use a quality name brand oil (add brand here) and it runs $1.20 a quart and you cars holds 5 quarts, that's 10 quarts for a total of 12 bucks and two 3 dollar filters - $18 total plus two visits in the garage doing the change.

Now using synthetic - I don't know about the PNW but here you can get it in the 5 qt jug for $20. So we change at 6k miles at twenty bucks plus the 3 dollar filter for a total of $23.

One visit to the garage and the added protection for five dollars more.

Independent studies have shown synthetic oil and conventional oils provide the same protection after start-up and while the vehicle is operating under normal conditions. Outside those conditions is when the benefit of synthetic is obvious.
 

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Dan is correct . Most diesels required a specific weight of oil and diesel oils also have thier own rating system . Make sure to use the appropriate oil if the truck is still under warranty .
 

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Danno, take a sniff of your amsoil in that diesel, I will bet it has a burn't smell. The heat generated by the turbo diesel seams to be more than the amsoil can handle from what I have been hearing. If you wan't to run a synthetic,check out Royal Purple 15/40.
Dave
 
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