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i know there are some extremes-- take another 6 cyl car and put your serial # on it (illegal) but its happened before.. and will again.

at what point is the car considered a rebody> for example say this is a shelby.

i saw a car with new firewall- floors- doors- quarters- wheelhouses- trunk floor etc.. with the firewall being replaced its hard to tell where the original car was.. or is

the inner fenders have been welded back on (why?) was it just the firewall replacement?-- ( now the sticky point)
i dont know if the inner fenders are from the car where the roof panel is used.. i also dont know if you could ever tell now --

so at what point does a restoration become a rebody..
i do know there were 2 cars and now there is 1. as the registration didnt match the inner fenders- thats easy enough to get corrected though.
 

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It's a fine line......
I've often wondered too at what point is a "repair panel" more than a repair panel.
 

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Boy! I have wondered this too!! I mean all you have to do is take the three fender aprons off a K code and put it on a good shell. Who would know, but you??? then crush the other car....

Who says this is Ileagel and why? Why is this just not Good rust repair work? Where is the line drawn?
 

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Yeah, tough one. Looking at how little is left of the car I started on, it is really quite amazing.

When it is done, the only original sheet metal visible from the outside will be the decklid, the two outer rockers, and the roof. Even the back edge of the roof will be replaced.

From the inside, the dash, firewall above the toe boards, center of the lower cowl, inner fenders behind the shock towers, PS inner fender in front of the shock tower and one strut bracket in the front. The front halves of the rear frame rails and the floor under the rear seat and over the axle hump are all that is left in the back. Unless you count the rear trunk corners, lol.
 

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Yea, just ask the guys building the '67 Shelby continuation cars.....Change a door plate and get raided by a fully armed SWAT team!
 

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Rebody IMO is like an age old question: "How high is up?"

My 68 vert is 90% original original mechanically. 70% original body. Guys like Jay Leno want a car like a Mustang to be low mileage (like under 5000 documented) and 99% original. My guess is he would consider a replaced but NOS fender to be like a rebody!

Others would spend $50,000 on restoring a big block fastback 68 VIN number and be happy!

It's like how much is a car worth? IMO it's worth what a buyer pays!

My personal code is this: Anything I know about a vehicle I'm selling I document. If the buyer still wants it ok.

Slim
 

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SAAC has, I believe, 4 classifications:
1/ All original
2/ Restored original. All VIN's are original to the car and the body for the most part is original from the factory.
3/ Repaired original where VIN's have been removed, the repair made, the VIN replaced, major replacement of body panels. Basically an original Shelby base but much fabrication on top.
4/ Air car. The car never was a Shelby but has a Shelby VIN on it.
 

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SAAC has, I believe, 4 classifications:
1/ All original
2/ Restored original. All VIN's are original to the car and the body for the most part is original from the factory.
3/ Repaired original where VIN's have been removed, the repair made, the VIN replaced, major replacement of body panels. Basically an original Shelby base but much fabrication on top.
4/ Air car. The car never was a Shelby but has a Shelby VIN on it.
In that case this would be a "2/3". The aprons, towers, and rails were good, but an inch past the firewall it was rotten. Floors, rails, and quarters. Basically, the reinforcement around the rear seat was OK, but even the cowl and dash were bad. So over half the body (by weight) was replaced, but all the VIN's are untouched original steel.

 

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Boy! I have wondered this too!! I mean all you have to do is take the three fender aprons off a K code and put it on a good shell. Who would know, but you??? then crush the other car....

Who says this is Ileagel and why? Why is this just not Good rust repair work? Where is the line drawn?
ahhhh but then theres the sheet metal date codes the must be within a few months of the build date,late 65 cars dont have the chrome windshied wiper screw on trim things, 65 has screw on windshied & rear glass moulding clips and 66 has studs(like me) that are permanently mounted. btw that ahhhh i started out with was me taking a drink of my Folgers instant coffee with french vanilla in it ! its mountain grown in an instant !:shocked::loco:
 

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Yea, just ask the guys building the '67 Shelby continuation cars.....Change a door plate and get raided by a fully armed SWAT team!
sending in the swat team was beyond excessive ! 4 or 5 police or sheriff deputys would have ben more appropriate with a news van to report it !
 

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By the time I'm done replacing all my steel (hopefully the last of it is going to be done very soon), the only original steel on my car will be the roof, cowl, door frame area, rear torque boxes, part of the rear frame, and rockers. Luckily for me I haven't had to mess with the area where my VIN is. I don't really see how my car is any different than a Dynacorn body at this point other than I have an original VIN attached to the original cowl.

 

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To me "rebody" is taking the vins off one car and attaching them to another separate car. Replacing a bunch of sheet metal is not the same because there is not another car involved.

Cars with untouched original unibodies will always be worth more than ones that had a lot of sheet metal replaced. But if it is a rare car and that is the only option then so be it.

I had to replace a lot of sheet metal on my 68 vert but it is a 428CJ car of which they only made 34. I'd have spent the rest of my life looking for a "nicer" one.
 

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To me "rebody" is taking the vins off one car and attaching them to another separate car. Replacing a bunch of sheet metal is not the same because there is not another car involved.

Cars with untouched original unibodies will always be worth more than ones that had a lot of sheet metal replaced. But if it is a rare car and that is the only option then so be it.
I agree. That's about as close as we'll get to a workable definition.
 

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I KNOW there are many '67-'68 Dynacorn fastback bodies that are now wearing a FORD VIN from a rusty or wrecked car, I'd be willing to bet money that more than 1 high end Shelby has been re-bodied with a donor 6cyl body, and with the introduction of the '65-'66 Mustang Convertible body by Dynacorn I'll bet there will be PLENTY of them built using FORD VINs too
Folks out there who are honest and wouldn't think about rebodying a car for legal reasons sell off the rusty/wrecked cars and someone else who is not so honest will grab it and run with it all the way to the bank!!
 

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I KNOW there are many '67-'68 Dynacorn fastback bodies that are now wearing a FORD VIN from a rusty or wrecked car, I'd be willing to bet money that more than 1 high end Shelby has been re-bodied with a donor 6cyl body, and with the introduction of the '65-'66 Mustang Convertible body by Dynacorn I'll bet there will be PLENTY of them built using FORD VINs too
Folks out there who are honest and wouldn't think about rebodying a car for legal reasons sell off the rusty/wrecked cars and someone else who is not so honest will grab it and run with it all the way to the bank!!
Right now, for the 65, you could buy the "whole" floor assembly, the left and right shock tower frame rail assemblies, both 1/4s, fenders doors, deck lid and all the front end sheet metal and put that all together in your garage. All you would need from the original car is some of the sheet metal around the rear seat and the windshield frame. Is that really different than buying the whole dynacorn body?

I guess I just restated the initial post that started this thread, lol...

Where does it stop...
 

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Right now, for the 65, you could buy the "whole" floor assembly, the left and right shock tower frame rail assemblies, both 1/4s, fenders doors, deck lid and all the front end sheet metal and put that all together in your garage. All you would need from the original car is some of the sheet metal around the rear seat and the windshield frame. Is that really different than buying the whole dynacorn body?

I guess I just restated the initial post that started this thread, lol...

Where does it stop...
One thing to consider is the laws in some states. In SC I can buy the Dymacorn body and then build around it and take it to the DMV and get it titled as a kit car based on a 19XX year car and use what ever drivetrain I want.
In CA the same project would be considered a 2011 car and would have to meet 2011 emission standards with a modern dirvetrain.
Once again, Govt. regulations (be it at the state of federal level) are driving people to become criminals because the loopholes are impossible to jump through.
FWIW, GM stepped up to the plate and is offering complete engine, transmission, exhaust an all emissions and proper fuel tank vents over the counter that meet CARB regulations for car builders in CA. I wish Ford would step up the competetion a little for the Coyote engine.
 

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Let's just be honest about this. If it's a Dynacorn, Scott Drake ot anything other than a Ford produced Mustang, it's not a Mustang. The reproduced body is just that, a reproduction of an original. If you rebuild a car using the complete floor pan,doors,fenders,quarters,hood,
and trunk lid do you still have an original car. I don't think so. But if you retain the aprons with the serial #s then it's OK to call it original. I don't think so.
 

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You guys would probably really hate my fastback. I've been documenting the complete build with my sony camera. I gotta say you guys, this car came complete, with the rear fold down seats, all glass, a 66 'stang 289 4v engine, A 67 fairlane 4300d (wtf ?), c4 auto, an 8" rear with the original tag on it 5 lug, no door tag, and the hole front end was replaced( firewall forward from another mustang), all numbers match on body (so panels were reused they were plug welded back on from what i can see) possibly do to front end damage. They even reused the from passenger side battery apron, which looks like crumbled foil. So maybe its original?

The side vents are silver under the primer, the door jams are blue, the floor pan is silver, the ash tray is wimbeldon white, The front end fenders are also silver with black prime.

Obviously someone has done extensive work on this car. All parts are from ford, and its all dated 65. But i think i remember some structural parts in between the rear 1/4 with the 66 date code, maybe between years?.

What if I have a 66 A code, but some one took the vins off and door tag and put it on a C code 65.

Either way IDGAF like the other guy said, Its worth what its worth to me, and Im not to fond of turning it back to an automatic 2v 289. An A code would be tight, But No A code vins.
 

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It's my understanding that the Dynacorn bodies are being issued Ford Mustang VINs that are very similar to the original Ford VIN. This came from a friend with a hotrod business who went to SEMA this year and was told this by the Dynacorn folks in their booth.
 

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I don't know how that is possible since Ford put the engine and assembly plant in the VIN. But similar is similar :)

I saw a 69 Mustang Dynacorn VIN about a year ago and I don't remember it being that similar to the Ford VIN. The Dynacorn VIN was down on the passenger rocker.
 
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