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Can't read the ad :) Does he claim it runs fine or does he give a more detailed description of the mechanical condition? Without getting answers it is hard to say. Could be a money pit, could be reasonable. I actually like the patina look on it :)
 

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You need to get some photos of the underside of the car, the floors, & the front & rear frame rails to see what shape they are in.
 

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Sorry to say but as an "old fogey" I wouldn't give a $10,000 classic to a teenager. But, depending on the drive train & interior, I'd say that $10K is a bit high as the repaint could easily run into several thousand alone.
 

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An optimistic and generous $1500 car in the US max! NOT from the sunny parts of CA. Look at the door bottoms and at rust from the air on the interior leads a guess to it having Flintstone floors. Not one pic of the engine bay nor word about it running. Its gonna look worse than the outside.
That car would make a poor teenager into a poor adult before it was put into service.

Had to edit the $$ down- See the rust on both sides of the A pillar and at the bottom of the windshield. VERY bad news. The kind of car I would go look at only so I could laugh out loud in the face at the dealer.
 

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You asked for my "thoughts". Here they are:

Th car appears to be a 1966 model, not a 1965;
Reference to the car being a California car is really of little value. There are a number of cars here in California that I call "beach cars" which live in a salt air environment close to the ocean. That is as destructive as driving on salted roads in the upper Midwest. Further, the inference of a good life in California is inconsistent with the physical appearance of this car and the faded parking permit from Meridian, Mississippi on the front bumper.
The car is clearly neglected, so assume it needs most everything.
For a first time project, I suspect you would be in way over your head financially so this car would not likely be my first choice for a first car.

Be patient and keep looking. A much nicer car should be out there at or near that price.
 

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That would be a $500 parts car here in the US.
It appears to be a complete rustbucket that would cost 5 times as much money to rebuild as it would ever be worth. For $10,500 you can buy a decent driver Coupe/Hardtop over here. It will cost $2000-$3000 to ship it over in a container. I have no idea how much you would have to pay in Customs, Duties and Fees.
I helped a VMF member buy and ship a '66 Convertible to Spain almost 3 years ago. His second US purchase is on it's way to him now. Contact "josep" on this forum for more information.
 

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Nay........An educated buyer can assess what the costs and time would be to fix the car up to one of several levels. If you just want that car to run and drive, and the needed components on the car will do that with a little refurbishment by you, that's one thing. but if you want a shiny, safe, fast, reliable, really nice car...well, that's something different. I have a 15 year old Dutch/American grandson in Amsterdam that is also starting to get into cars and I hate to dissuade anyone from getting into an old car, but you need a place to work on it and money to fix it up,, then there's the whole safety aspect of this old car for an inexperienced new driver (you) no air bags, abs brakes, well designed structural integrity such as crumple zones, etc etc. Sure, you can add disc brakes,3 point seat belts, new tires, better lights and so on but, for 10,000 euro I am sure you could get a decent 10 year old car that you could enjoy more than this old car. I would love to find an Amsterdam built mustang and bring it back here to the states...but at 61 I have the resources and skills to completely rebuild a car such as the one you are looking at. Even doing all, and I mean all the work, I think in parts and materials I would have over 20,000 in it, then add the purchase price...It would be difficult to sell it for more than 20..thats why they call cars like that a money pit...if you have to pay someone to do the body and paint work, the mechanical work, well, its just not practical at all...When I was 16 I did buy an old beater and proceded to hot rod the heck out of it...I think I paid 500 dollars for a running 56 f100 that was a lot of fun and I was able to work on and improve as the years went by. Stel het goed!
 

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Yes, it's a '66. Here, a very nice '66 Hardtop V8 could be had for $20,000 US. That car will need a minimum of, IMHO, $18,000 US to make it worth $20,000 US so I'd figure its worth about $2,000 US... if it were HERE, of course. Being in the Netherlands means that while it might be worth MORE, initially due to location, parts and labor needed to make it roadworthy will, undoubtedly, be much more than what they'd cost here.
 

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Well so far I see...
Fenders
Quarters
Doors
Hood
Bumpers and all trim
Probably the deck lid
With the rust I see most likely a cowl replacement
Ditto above then floor pans
Complete interior

Basically what I see is a bare shell that needs floors and cowl and a whole bunch of scrap metal still bolted to it. And Not a clue about the drivetrain yet.

Start adding up all the parts you need and then figure in what it will cost for you or someone else to do the work then add that to the sale price then see what you can get in better condition for that price range.

If I were buying that as a project here in the US I wouldn't be going into the 4 digit price range knowing what it is going to take to rebuild it unless it was something special.


Oh on the upside it has an unmolested radio and radio holes.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well so far I see...
Fenders
Quarters
Doors
Hood
Bumpers and all trim
Probably the deck lid
With the rust I see most likely a cowl replacement
Ditto above then floor pans
Complete interior

Basically what I see is a bare shell that needs floors and cowl and a whole bunch of scrap metal still bolted to it. And Not a clue about the drivetrain yet.

Start adding up all the parts you need and then figure in what it will cost for you or someone else to do the work then add that to the sale price then see what you can get in better condition for that price range.

If I were buying that as a project here in the US I wouldn't be going into the 4 digit price range knowing what it is going to take to rebuild it unless it was something special.


Oh on the upside it has an unmolested radio and radio holes.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Can't read the ad :) Does he claim it runs fine or does he give a more detailed description of the mechanical condition? Without getting answers it is hard to say. Could be a money pit, could be reasonable. I actually like the patina look on it :)
He says the following about it:
The Mustang has not been an active part of the traffic for some time and will therefore receive some technical attention. If I am not mistaken, the engine did run when it came to us.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
An optimistic and generous $1500 car in the US max! NOT from the sunny parts of CA. Look at the door bottoms and at rust from the air on the interior leads a guess to it having Flintstone floors. Not one pic of the engine bay nor word about it running. Its gonna look worse than the outside.
That car would make a poor teenager into a poor adult before it was put into service.

Had to edit the $$ down- See the rust on both sides of the A pillar and at the bottom of the windshield. VERY bad news. The kind of car I would go look at only so I could laugh out loud in the face at the dealer.
Haha thanks!
 

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Not that it really matters but I don't know why he's calling it a '65 when it has all of the '66 features such as the grille, gas cap, side ornaments, instrument panel and engine paint. Maybe he has a title for a '65 that is not the title for this car.
Seriously- that is a $500 parts car here in the US. A basic V8 Coupe like that one in "driver" condition is barely worth $10,000 and that car is NOT in "driver" condition. It will cost you $20,000-$30,000 just to return that car to "driver" condition.
Keep looking.
 

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In picture 65 the front floor support is quite wavy. The front appears to be lower and the rear portion is pushed up as evidenced by the floor pan. The rear of this piece is held in place by the seat support so that piece is also bent and the drivers seat is most likely pushed up because of it.

Picture 69-70 that quarter is really nasty from being hit in the rear.

Picture 82 of the rear frame rail you can see lots of dents in it from being jacked up by it probably hundreds of times.

The biggest hassle I see repair wise is that front floor support. It is a pain to remove as there are lots of spot welds to drill and they are in hard to get to positions. And hope there isn't an issue with the frame rail and fender apron. replacing the frame rails in the front is a royal pain to do since we don't have measurement documentation. The floor in that area at least will have to be replaced.
The cowl if bad is the other biggie repair.

Basically what I see including my previous post... I see a car that needs everything that bolts on or screws on replaced or repaired when possible. It needs to be taken down to a bare body and rebuilt. It is basically a total redo unless you like the worn look then just fix that floor support and floor and get it driving.

After more pics I would have to go with it being a $500 car as well. As Awhtx just posted as I was writing a driver car isn't worth 10K here. There are so many mustangs still around they don't have the value of other cars. But that makes it a great hobbiest car as parts are cheaper than any other US car out there.

I think you would be much better off buying a car here in the US and having it shipped there though there are also really good deals in England often better cars for less $ than here in the US. The shipping and import costs would be worth it IMO.
 

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Not that it really matters but I don't know why he's calling it a '65 when it has all of the '66 features such as the grille, gas cap, side ornaments, instrument panel and engine paint. Maybe he has a title for a '65 that is not the title for this car.
Seriously- that is a $500 parts car here in the US. A basic V8 Coupe like that one in "driver" condition is barely worth $10,000 and that car is NOT in "driver" condition. It will cost you $20,000-$30,000 just to return that car to "driver" condition.
Keep looking.
Interestingly my car is a 66 and from the California title it appeared to be a 65. As I recall the California title indicated the year as "year of manufacture" (it's been 30 years since re-titled so forgive me if recollection of exact wording is wrong). 65 was the correct year of manufacture as it was built on 9/16/65, but most definitely a 66 model year as stated by the VIN. When I moved to Michigan and went to title the car they started to title it as a 65 and without my correcting them it certainly would have had been titled as a 65 with a 66 VIN. Point being, it is entirely possible to have an incorrect year on a title.

As for the value of the car in question, not $10k in the US for sure. I agree with the others suggesting to keep looking. BTW, remember the cost of gas. A V8 might not be the economical solution.
 
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Well, definitely a 66 model car. I am sorry to say that but I will first shoot myself than buy this car.! It is a crap, forget it, pass. I’m sure you will find another one in much better condition (not difficult, this is easy!) and probably around the same price.
I have seen this website in the past and have always amazed me on how high the prices are.!
I see you are also in The Nederlands, look around and do not hesitate to look also in Germany, many Mustangs there and not far.


Josep
 
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Interestingly my car is a 66 and from the California title it appeared to be a 65. As I recall the California title indicated the year as "year of manufacture" (it's been 30 years since re-titled so forgive me if recollection of exact wording is wrong). 65 was the correct year of manufacture as it was built on 9/16/65, but most definitely a 66 model year as stated by the VIN. When I moved to Michigan and went to title the car they started to title it as a 65 and without my correcting them it certainly would have had been titled as a 65 with a 66 VIN. Point being, it is entirely possible to have an incorrect year on a title.

As for the value of the car in question, not $10k in the US for sure. I agree with the others suggesting to keep looking. BTW, remember the cost of gas. A V8 might not be the economical solution.

Year of manufacture and model year are two different animals. The change over month is usually August but it varies depending on brands and car line. Right now Kia is still building 2019 Tellurides when normally around the end of august those would have been changed to 2020s.
Heck I can build a brand new 66 mustang from all new steel and then go register it as a 66 because it is a 66 model year. (no nice they changed that law a couple years back for repica cars in Tx)
 
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