[R100RT]

Younger daughter just called. She went down south today. Her C4, which had been working so well before, is acting up again. Some of you might remember all the posts about no third shift, etc. Anyway, latest complaint is not going into gear when cold. Slipping betwen shifts. I wonder if the bands are slipping. Last fluid check, I found dark colored debris floating on the top of the stick. Maybe band friction material?
Tonight, I will check the band adjustments. Any other ideas?

 

[66conv6]

"Not going into gear when cold." Seems like fluid level is too low. My car does the same (cause it leaks) and slipping between shifts. Recheck the fluid level.

 

[R100RT]

Ya, I agree. Problem first showed last week. When I checked, it was quart low. I added fluid slow, with the engine at temp. I was below the don't add arrows and added maybe 4 oz. I checked again and the level was clear above the dont add whith lots of bubbles in it, (foaming).

 

[camachinist]

Eric,
You're checking on level ground with the engine/trans warm, running and in Park or Neutral, right? I assume you are but just wanted to throw it in for others..

Do you find the level goes way up after the car sits awhile? (Checking with engine off)...

Did you change the converter? (can't remember *G*)

It's also possible that debris have clogged the inlet screen, causing the pump to cavitate.....(long shot)...

Get back to us..

 

[R100RT]

Yup, checked level, warm, in park. I thought it was strange that the level would rise so far up the stick with just a little fluid added. /forums/images/icons/frown.gif

I check level with car off and see.

I will get under, tonight, and do a once over. My bet is loose bands.

It waont take a second to drop the pan as I installed a drain plug.

 

[Nedcrane]

If the fluid level and band adjustments don't help,it's likely that the internal seals have hardened,causing the slow reaction when it's shifted into drive.Don't waste your time pulling the pan,since that will only remove part of the fluid.Disconnect the pressure side line from the cooler and attach some 3/8 gas hose with a clamp,and route the hose into a drain pan that will hold 2-3 gallons.Put a funnel in the filler tube(have eight quarts or so ready),start the engine and let the fluid drain into the pan,and start pouring fluid while it's draining.If the fluid is dirty,and I think you'll find that it is,you'll see clear fluid after pouring about 8-9 quarts.Shut it off,disconnect the return line on the cooler,flush the cooler with some brakleen,then blow it dry with an airhose.Reconnect the lines and take it for a test drive.This procedure gives the transmission a complete"transfusion",rather than draining the pan and replacing a portion of the fluid.I've done this for years and gotten great results.It may not completely cure it right away but it will improve gradually during the next 200-300 miles of use.There are also some very good additives that can soften and restore the internal seals,but they're much more effective with new fluid.Let us know how it works out...