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Dimples
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Front disc brakes with a dual reservoir master cylinder.
3 point seat belts.
Good tires.
Upgrade headlights.
Keep fresh rain-X on the windshield to avoid having to use the crappy wipers.

That's all I can think of at the moment.
 

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Disc brakes, if you drive nutz like me, and absolutely any frequently driven Mustang should have the Arning drop. I would also add a 1" front sway bar and export brace. These mods are crucial to any Mustang using radial tires.
 

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I bought mine in '86, and didn't do anything to it for years and it was my only car. I put front discs on after about 10 years. And an export brace around the same time. Everything else has been done in the last 5 years, and it's no longer my daily driver.
 

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If you spend a lot of time in parking lots or needing to parallel park, power steering might be nice and if you live in the Deep South and don't want to be soaking wet with sweat when you get where you're going you might want air conditioning. I have neither. Been driving mine almost 30 years that way.
 

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Disc brakes, and absolutely any frequently driven Mustang should have the Arning drop. I would also add a 1" front sway bar and export brace.
I've done all those things. At this point I'd just get better tires for rainy weather because when it's wet BFG T/A's remind me of my water skiing days.
 

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Not a thing- there's nothing better than the feeling of 'being back in time' driving old cars. My '38 Ford Sedan had mechanical brakes, an AM radio with manual antenna, Armstrong steering, and a 5 speed (ok 3 speed, but it could get stuck between the gears pretty easily and still move!) Get hot- roll down ALL the windows ALL the way. Need to stop quick- use BOTH feet. Yup- it's a great feeling!!
 

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I daily drive a 65 Mustang Convertible in Southern California. It is a C code, C4 car. For a daily driver that has to go through stop and go traffic, my car has or I have made the following upgrades for safety and reliability. Obviously the list could be endless until you have an entirely new car, but I'm bring budget conscious on my beater driver.

-Pertronix solid state ignition and coil.
-LED exterior and interior lighting. Other drivers need to see you and the original incandescent bulbs are archaic. Also, the LED helps lessen the electrical load on the ancient wiring.
-LED headlights with relay harness. Most LED units are around 37 watts each, so you decrease your load compared to incandescent while improving visibility. You can get 4400k bulbs out there if you want warm light as opposed to the modern 6000 kelvin (daylight) balanced sources out there.
-Front disc brakes. I had drums on a car, but obviously stopping is important.
-Good set of shocks. I would also recommend upgrading to a 1 inch sway bar. My car has 620s and HD leafs which are a bit stiff, like most modern cars. However, the car handles and maneuvers very well.
-proper alignment for radial tires and steering wheels returns to center on its own.
-Radiator overflow tank.

-Electric radiator fan. This may not be as important on 67+ cars where it is easier to fit a larger radiator, but in city traffic I was having overheating issues with a 3 row radiator. problem solved with a 3000 CFM electric fan controlled by and adjustable relay. Car never overheats.
-Modern alternator. Due to e fan, I upgraded to a 3G, 150 watt unit. Most could go with a modern upgraded 1G alternator that puts out 60 amps at idle. The fan alone was pulling 19 amps.
-Depends on where you live, but if you are going to daily drive a vintage car including to and from work, air conditioning is a must. I installed a stock style under dash evaporator, but upgraded to a 134a system with Sanden 508 compressor and high efficiency heat exchanger within the evaporator. I get readings in the 40s off the evaporator.
-trunk emergency roadside kit - jack, extra motor oil, power steering fluid, spare fuses, small tool kit, lug nut wrench etc.
-If you drive a lot on the highway, I would recommend 4R70W or T5 for overdrive. This is the last MUST to do item in my situation. The 16 gallon gas tank doesn't get you far at 16-19 mpg.

-eventually I'd like to instal EFI, electric water pump, electric fuel pump, but not necessary on this budget build. I'll save those for when I restore the car and go 347. Otherwise, the car has not left me stranded or felt unsafe once as my daily driver. It has been very reliable.
 

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I wouldn’t mind AC but it’s a lot of stuff to add so I haven’t.

I have done 3 point seat belts, headrests, arning drop, 1” sway bar, open tracker control arms, export brace, Monte Carlo, tank armor, sub frame connectors, already had front disk and dual master cylinder.

Modified the AM stereo to FM. Added an electronic telescoping antenna, rear trunk electric opener original ford.

Also did pertonix and recurved original distributor.

Added Gear Vendors overdrive to the top loader, as someone else mentioned above I did replace almost every bulb with LED including sequential LED tail lights and I added H4 headlights with a relay kit. Car lights up well at night.

I am sure I’m missing some things.
 

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I was daily driving in Extremely dense Los Angeles rush hour traffic for a few decades and have been rear ended three times so I would get MUCH brighter stoplight bulbs.
I have drum brakes and use Porterfield R4-S carbon kevlar brake shoes up front. Car stops maybe 20 percent faster. Disc brakes would be even better when that Honda Civic cuts in front of you and ends up slamming his brakes.

One more thing:
Get M U C H Brighter Taillights.!!
 

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The only thing I see missing from the above posts is a metal trunk divider behind the back seat (for a coupe or vert). Not only does it provide a bit more protection from allowing gas into the passenger compartment in a rear-end collision but it really does help stiffen up the car. And it's cheap... easy to add... easy to remove...

+1 on the...
(1) Front disc brakes
(2) Bright LED taillights
(3) Headrests
(4) Shoulder belt or 3 pt seat belt
(5) Dual bowl brake reservoir
(6) Collapsible steering column
(7) Export brace
(8) Modern alignment (more caster) and Arning drop
 

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I don't drive mine daily but it could be. Pertronix ignition, underdash A/C w/Sanden r134a, Bilstein Shocks (huge massive difference) the export brace, electric choke. Things I would do if I was nuts enough to destroy it on my heavy traffic commutes....AOD tranny. The 3 speed C4 is just too high on RPM to do all the time to feel comfortable at anything over 65. Front disc brakes. I'm still 4 drum but they stop phenomenally with today's shoe technology so I'm in no rush on that one. I'm adding an under hood temp gauge with accuracy so I don't have to fret every time the needle spikes in hot weather. It's not very accurate. Car has never overheated even near or at "H".
 

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Dimples
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I like the brighter tail lights idea. I'm going to have to figure out a solution there for my daughter's car. I guess my car too.

For a daily, I actually don't hate the idea of adding an auxiliary CHMSL third brake light. It'd work especially well with a coupe. Sure it's not original, but it might keep your rear sheet metal original. Maybe do a quick-disconnect on the wiring for shows or whatever.
 

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I have not made many modifications to my `66 but the intermittent setting I installed on my factory two-speed wipers is wonderful when it is just spitting.
 

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This would be essential for a daily driver.

1. Fuel injection because who wants to mess with carburettors.
2. Power-assisted brakes as they brake with more force than standard brakes.
3. Mustang 2 front suspension as newer equals better.
4. Power steering as manual steering sucks.
5. Rack and pinion steering as the steering box is too vague.
6. A straight Monte Carlo bar as the curved ones bend.
7. 4 bar rear suspension as leaf springs are from the 18th century.
8. Electric fuel pump as the mechanical ones are unreliable.
9. Hydraulic clutch as the old clutch linkages require too much effort.
10. Rear disc brakes as the drums are inefficient.

And of course, this is just a bit of humour.
 
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