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After reading this post awhile ago about oil, and manufacturers removing their anti-scuff properties I got to wondering what type of oil others are using?

I definetly dont want to use a 15-40, 20-50 oil like that guy seems to recommend. I've stuck with old Mobil 1 10-30 so far on a motor with about 1000 mi on it. What about you guys?
 

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Currently 10/30 Castrol on new motor with 500 miles and holding ...
 

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I like Valvoline Durablend. I use 10w30 in everything but the 69. I have 20w50 in it.
 

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Amsoil 10w30 in the Pony. 5w-30 in my truck and daily driver.
The oil FILTER is as if not MORE important than the oil.
 

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Mobil 1 full synthetic in everything I own. 5W-30 in my Ranger and Explorer, 10W-40 in my 92 Mustang. The '67 doesn't have an engine yet, or I'd run it in that too. :: I've seen an improvement in mileage (2-4 mpg) and I've been using this oil for years. No vehicle I've used it in have ever leaked a drop of oil or used any oil between oil changes. Good Luck!
-Greg
 

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I use Castrol Syntec 10W-30. Since i probably dont get more than 2000 miles on it in any cruising season, it probably doesnt matter all that much.
 

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71 Mach1, Mcode, AOD, 4 wheel discs, Ram air, Cragars in Vermilion Fire paint.
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has anyone used the castrol magnatec oil.
I've used it the last couple of years.
Not sure if it's hurting the (new) engine but I instantly noticed "NO" cold start noises.

any thoughts.

My biggest fear is that if they've changed their oils formulations in the last few years ...then none of us have a long proven record with the new oils. It's not like a motor's going to die in a year or two.

Has anybody used the new stuff in a non "cat" vintage engine and done eg: 30,000 miles.

cheers.
 

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Motorcraft synthetic blend in all. 10-30 in the '66 Mustang & '95 F150, 5-30 in the '00 Mustang, and 5-20 in the '03 Ranger.
 

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I've used Mobile 1 until now. This year, based on the informmatin about flat tappet lifters and the new reformulated oils, I'm switch to the Valvoline racing oil.

Phil
 

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I am using this. I'll have to look at the analysis report to see if Zinc and Manganese are listed in it. IIRC, they are...
https://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/images/tro_bottle_350pxh.jpg
https://www.amsoil.com/graphs/tro_4ball_2003_380px.jpg
 

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With my best Bill Murray voice... "Manganese, not many people even know what manganese is." - Carl Spangler
 

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The funny thing is that Mobil 1 is not a true synthetic. Its a regular oil that has been hydrocracked to make all the molecules appoximately the same size. They then are allowed to call themselves synthetic because it has the same properties as the real thing. This should appeal to you clone lovers.

Very few Motor oils are TRUE synthetic. Amsoil, Royal Purple, Redline, and believe it or not, Chevron Supreme Synthetic.
 

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Valvoline Racing 20-50. That is what my engine builder recommended, that is what I'm sticking with.
 

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I have always run the valvoline 20/50 racing oil in the boss, the last change I went with the Mobil 1. My oil pressure increased almost 20 psi on cold start up and under load. Once it warms up it idles about 10-15 psi less than with the valvoline.

I think my next change will be with the valvoline racing oil. My oil pressure with valvoline was about 60 psi under load, and on cold start up, and appx 40 psi at idle when warm.
 

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My oil pressure increased almost 20 psi on cold start up and under load. Once it warms up it idles about 10-15 psi less than with the valvoline.

I think my next change will be with the valvoline racing oil. My oil pressure with valvoline was about 60 psi under load, and on cold start up, and appx 40 psi at idle when warm.
I noticed about the same difference when I switch TO a Motorcraft oil filter. Not sure if it's the bypass valve or what.

Original poster: Valvoline or Castrol (whichever is on sale) 10W-40
 

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I'm running Redline 10W-30 in my 66. No oil burning or leaking so far, and 25MPG or more on the highway. :winkgrin:
Daniel
 
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