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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve started in on dad’s pony. It’s a ‘67 C code that has 74429 original miles. The car is 100% complete and 98%+ original and has been in storage since 1977. It was rear ended in the drivers side corner in the early 70’s. The bumper, tail light lenses and some trim were replaced in a dealership fix so I believe the parts to be correct oem replacements from Ford. I’m still very tempted to go for a concours restoration. My first question for this awesome forum is about the engine. Much of the original Ford blue lead paint still exists (see photos). While the valve covers are in good condition the intake manifold shows more wear. When the engine is balanced and rebuilt would judges score higher an engine with untouched original factory paint....even with large areas missing paint? Would they prefer to see the factory original parts restored to like new condition (media blasted and new paint)? Or would they prefer something akin to a conservation restoration....all the original paint is kept and the bare areas would be carefully filled in with as close a matching color paint as possible. I threw in the warranty plate for future questions. Anyway I’m really looking forward to your thoughts. Thank you.
 

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Survivor or restored. French or English scoring? Paint nothing or everything. Ok paint the block if you need to...
 

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I can’t advise you on what judges think but if the rest of the car survived the times as good as those valve covers then I would definately consider a conservation type of restauration. Clean, adjust and repair/replace only what’s broken and you’ll have a great car. Much cheaper too! Again, judging from the condition of the valve cover.
 

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It all depends on the class you choose to put it in. Some are a "completely" restored, some "original" and the means the original factory paint and not touched up.
Also depends on your pain $$$$$ level. NOS parts require deep pockets, deeper everyday. If you plan on restoring to original as much as possible, take pictures of everything, especially factory color QC marks.
Your intake? I'd have it sandblasted, and repaint to 67 engine color. The 351W engine and trans I found, was completely untouched. Even had the carb ID tag on it. Usually first thing that gets thrown away. Another jewel on "contours" is the factory engine lifting plates and the vehicles tiedown plates.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
‘Survivor or restored’....it’s like damned if I do damned if I don’t. Fortunately nos parts aren’t my problem. But I’d like to touch on ‘original’. Forgive my ignorance (it’s why I’m here) but the guiding standard I’d like to use is as delivered to the original owner by the destination dealership. Seems original could mean as a percentage of parts and finishes. But in that case wouldn’t the most original car always win regardless of aesthetic appeal. When restoration begins that 98%+ originality of the car will decrease. After 40+ years the carb, water pump etc. need to be rebuilt. Hoses, gaskets have become brittle, etc. And don’t almost all cars competing in original classes have some degree of unoriginal parts to remain drivable? I mean, is a car that is 99% original always going to beat a car that is 89% original? When the oil filter is changed for the very first time, or tires, doesn’t the ‘original’ nature of the car change? It seems original could also mean ‘like as new’ in which case that 351W intake would fit into the definition well. I could just clean the car. But a touch of paint here...a stitch or two there...while not original, will certainly bring the car closer to the visual condition in which dad bought it from the dealer and replaces nothing.
 

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Looks like a great car to keep as is and I’m sure many would agree with me.

Even it will probably turn out great if restored, it will be one of many. Cars that survived the times like yours are much rarer.
 

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I highly recommend that you post this question on ConcoursMustang Forums - Index

There are a lot of threads already on the topic of cleaning and preserving.

It is a beautiful car.

Regarding the intake manifold suggestion for sand blasting - I would steer away from that. There is a baffle (basic part# 6524) attached to the bottom of the intake with "screw-drive" fasteners (part# 92060). If sand or other media gets in there during cleaning, and then it finds its way out when you are operating the engine at a later date, it will wreak havoc.

770779
 

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I personally like survivors, restored and custom cars are a dime a dozen. A truly unrestored car is extremely rare. I would advocate leaving it alone. You can buy concours level belts and hoses, nobody will ding you for making your car drivable. My car is a rat but I keep things on it that came from the factory as best I can in the interior. The drivetrain and suspension is modified but the body and interior, I rebuild original motors and fix original parts as best I can. I used some NOS and used parts but mostly have been able to fix most everything. Personally, I would clean it up and bolt it back together as is. Its cool and tells a unique story...
 

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I personally like survivors, restored and custom cars are a dime a dozen. A truly unrestored car is extremely rare. I would advocate leaving it alone. You can buy concours level belts and hoses, nobody will ding you for making your car drivable. My car is a rat but I keep things on it that came from the factory as best I can in the interior. The drivetrain and suspension is modified but the body and interior, I rebuild original motors and fix original parts as best I can. I used some NOS and used parts but mostly have been able to fix most everything. Personally, I would clean it up and bolt it back together as is. Its cool and tells a unique story...
^^^+++
Make sure the brakes, steering and suspension are good. Fix any leaks. Change all the fluids. Tune it. Clean it. Drive it. Oh, my!!
 
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It's only original once.
Replace only what you have to, like a battery, belts, hoses, tires...I would use NOS if I could afford it and it wasn't rotten also, high-quality reproduction if available, or AT LEAST Motorcraft to keep it all-Ford under the hood. And there are reproduction radial tires made to look like the old bias-ply tires of the day. Way cool. Then, I would drive it with the biggest cheese-eating grin you've ever seen on sunny days on nice roads !
You also only LIVE once!!!
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Thank for your replies. This forum is excellent. I read an article that basically said long term storage is bad for cars. I tend to agree. Few have the means or wherewithal to preserve a car properly for 40 years, my dad included. Having said that your comments really have me thinking about a different direction. I’m just beginning so I will go to the concours forum you recommend.
 

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You can always start with just cleaning it and make it drivable while making up your mind. Please post some more photos, we'd love to see more of your car.
 

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Thank you for your kind words Helmantel. I am reading up on creating a restoration photographic record and hope to present better photos. But....again 40+ years of improper storage....so many issues. I haven’t really detailed the problems yet (and they are legion) but will when I sign up with concoursmustang. Please look for more photographs detailing the cars problems there in the near future in the 67 section.
 

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Concourse restorations on a run of the mill coupe will always vastly exceed value.

A one owner well maintained survivor is a great cat to have.
 
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In the pictures you posted what is the plan for the 1968 engine shown on the trailer?
 

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In the pictures you posted what is the plan for the 1968 engine shown on the trailer?
That would be mine. 69 351W/4spd (with Ford shifter and linkage)out of a Mach1. All original untouched. From the air cleaner nut to the drain plug and from the out put shaft to the damper pulley. Including all the ID tags and everything is date matching. Sold to last month.
 

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