Not to be flippant, but I think any shifter handle would work. That said, I recommend one that has plenty of angle to it. I got a Hurst shifter handle and it's a high quality piece, but ultimately, it's a little short. I'm tall and have my seat moved back, and I have to lean forward a little bit to shift. Not enough to justify a new shifter (I'm cheap), but if I had it to do again, I would get one long enough with enough backward angle to mimic the stock shifter. Just to be clear, I like the Hurst brand, I just ordered the wrong length/angle.
I’m using the Hurst shifter/Tri-ax handle from my 92. I made a plate that offsets the handle rearward. I have the factory a/c console (c4 originally). I used NPD’s cheap manual plate for a driver. Contours slightly off but decent quality. I was able to easily cut the plate for a/c console with portable bandsaw. I used painters masking tape to minimize scratching and minimize chrome chipping...it will be covered by the trim cap anyway.
I will add that you will want an aftermarket shifter for the t-5. One option is the summit brand shifter with the handle of your choice. Mine came with a Steeda handle and I would swear it is a Steeda shifter for about $50 less. Works much better than the stock one.
I don’t know my specific shifter, but I have a Hurst handle and cue ball shift knob. For the boot, I modified a stock 4 speed boot and bolted it directly to the tunnel and cut it slightly to fit the new arm. Then I bought a leather boot that fits loosely over the rubber one but tucked it underneath the console. I love it and it works perfectly.
OK, I have a Non-AC console and went with an MDL recommended shifter. It's designed to "pop-up" through the existing C4 opening and it does/did. I purchased a bezel kit designed for a manual shift in a car with a console. It integrated well within the console. However, the corrugated rubber boot did not fit well and would "hangup" 2nd gear at times. So, I went with a nice leather shift boot on it and it's worked nicely.