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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What was Ford thinking when they designed the 65/66 door hinge? Apparently they weren't. The engineer that desinged the hinge must have had his head up his ###. This has to be the poorest hinge design I have ever seen. I just spent the morning adding the catches and springs to both of my lower hinges because the goofus who mounted the doors on my 1965 didn't bother to put them on. I didn't even notice until my passenger door got caught by the wind and over-opened far enough to put a slight bend on the front door edge. I am extremely lucky it isn't worse than it is. Anyway, much to my surprise, it was amazingly easy to add the catches and springs without removing the doors. What ticks me off is that the rollers that ride on the edge of the catches don't roll very consistently when opening and closing the doors!! I spent an hour soaking each roller with WD-40 until they spun freely very nicely. What was Ford thinking? They should of at least put teeth on the roller and edge of the catch. This way, the catch wouldn't slide along the surface of the roller with a nice CREEEEEEEK. The strength of the spring is just too much pressure against the roller to allow it to roll. I have soaked them to death and they got a little better but geeez, this is ridiculous. Anyone have any suggestions to have smoother hinges?

This is a nice place to vent frustration. Thanks.

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/5400/Mustang/1965picT1.jpg

<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by shelby2 on 04/22/01 01:47 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hey I jsut did the same thing today but I had to cange the pins and roller on one lower hinge and it was ruseted so I yanked the door, now How did you install the spring after the door was on, Tools etc by yourself,


Thanks, thses cars are so poorly designed it makes me sick to own one.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Follow these instructions to install the springs and catches WITHOUT removing the doors:

1. Open the door to about the position it would be in fully opened with a working and complete door hinge.

2. Using both hands, put one end of the spring over the small flat-topped nipple that is on the inside of the hinge and put the catch on the roller. Make sure the part of the catch that is on the roller is the part that would be there when the door is in normal wide open position. Then, stick the other end of the spring on the catch and then using the catch as a lever, force it back until the hole in the catch aligns with the hole in the hinge. Then, with your free hand, stick the pin in the hole and bang it in with a hammer. It took me less than 5 minutes per hinge to do this. Forget about trying to compress the spring and getting it in there AFTER putting the catch pin in. It is impossible.
 

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Having grown up as a gear head in the 50s and owned a brand new 65 Mustang GT, I can assure you that the Mustang was every bit the equal in design and quality of their contemporaries. I'd be sick if I didn't own one, and wouldn't complain so much about a car whose base price was $2400 and has lasted 36 years! As far as the hinge spring is concerned, compress the spring in a bench vice, then twist a small steel wire through the spring to keep it compressed. Put the spring back in position and snip the wire.

66 Fastback
85 GT Hatchback
67 Coupe
82 GT Hatchback
 

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3,102 Posts
I compressed the springs in a vise and tied them with 2 Ty-Raps. They worked great; however the hinges were no in the car. I don't think it would have made much difference since they went in easily. Good Luck.

65 Conv., 65 & 66 Coupes and the remains of
a 66' Coupe with 6 cyl. engine and V-8 3 spd.
 

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Moderatly Old Fart
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4,428 Posts
They are welded on the door for one thing.

Second the pins wear out. You can purchase fixit kits but it is a PITA tp drill them out because of the lack of room. The 65/66 design is not bad in comparison.

Gene J

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1584519&a=12110688&p=43875040&Sequence=1&res=high.jpg
66 Coupe/66 Convert/84 GT Turbo/96 coupe

Gene's cars
 
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