what radiator is that? I currently have a 4 row for a 64 impala in mine but ive had it about 4 years- things been beaten on a couple times between the cam swaps and dress up/pulley changes over the years.Not a great photo and kinda old but you get the idea.
ZSR 408 w/ AFR205 heads...no idea on crank power but it has 0 issues snapping the 275 tires in any gear so it's enough for me.
Gigantic radiator w/ 2 FlexLite electric fans
Air conditioning because i like to be classy but i'm here to party
It's a work in progress...
Nice looking engine bay! I'm pretty sure this is the first export brace and MC bar that I've seen on a shock tower delete. Did you drive it before and after? Could you feel a difference?
I dig this MC bar. I like that it's straight AND tucks in behind the distributor. Did you make this? If not, what brand?
It's a radiator for a big block car. I think a 70/71 if memory serves. The brand is "Be Cool". I can find the part number if you want it but looking at the price of those now, I'd probably have gone with a different brand. At the time, the price wasnt too bad and I caught it on sale. I did enlarge the opening to take full advantage of the increased surface area. With the fans, high flow pump, and a good 195 degree thermostat, the car stays within range pretty easily even sitting in traffic with the AC on. I rarely see it creep above 205 on the inlet temp.what radiator is that? I currently have a 4 row for a 64 impala in mine but ive had it about 4 years- things been beaten on a couple times between the cam swaps and dress up/pulley changes over the years.
It had a straight bar in it before I made the upgrades. I felt it flexed a little and I hated seeing the holes in the cowl where the old export brace used to be. I searched for anyone else who had the shock tower delete to see what they'd done and didn't really find anything, so I made it up from a combination of ideas. I do feel its stiffer when driving. I do not think the car gets the same stress as the standard shock tower set up does (its got a mustang 2 front install), but this triangulation seems to be much better than it was. And I like the more completed look much better too.Nice looking engine bay! I'm pretty sure this is the first export brace and MC bar that I've seen on a shock tower delete. Did you drive it before and after? Could you feel a difference?
Hey Guitarman, sorry - I thought Id got a private message from you and already responded. I didn't see the other question to me under this subject either, until I scanned the forum tonight. So here's my answer so others can see if they come across this. I made this up from a few ideas. I searched the net and found this Create a Custom Hydraulic Clutch System for T where he'd made his own brackets and mounts. Without shock towers, I wanted something to work, so I got the strut rods from the same place he did (or speedway - I forget), and then I contacted Total Control products and bought just the cowl bracket from them. I could have made it - but time etc and I wanted to get this done. I'm happy with the result and the look, and yes - I do feel a difference with the Expert brace now connecting to the MC bar.Where did you get that MC bar and firewall support bars? As someone with no shock towers I need to know!!!
Can you share with us the cause so we may learn and prevent the same? Although your engine bay looks GoRgEoUs now, and I congratulate you on a job well done! I am in the habit of turning off all current to my cars between drives...I had an electrical engine fire on 1/15/2020.
The main wiring harness that wraps the starter relay, ignition and engine sensors together were wrapped in black tape so you could not inspect them, but from the heat build up it was clearly the source of the fire. This harness is not fuse protected. I can only speculate that with the harness laying on the intake that a short developed and wasn't visible from the top. I keep my engine looking new always so I was shocked when this happened. For future, I made standoff's that mount on the valve cover bolts and suspended the new harness in the air so it was not laying on the intake.Can you share with us the cause so we may learn and prevent the same? Although your engine bay looks GoRgEoUs now, and I congratulate you on a job well done! I am in the habit of turning off all current to my cars between drives...
I love those little Holley/Weiand/B&M blowers. I had one on an off-brand motor cranked up well-past what they’re meant to put out, with water-methanol injection to try and cool it down. It was probably over 500hp, and it was pretty unassuming at idle with the hood shut.
Dude, totally digging the look.. especially your mounting choice for the fuel pressure regulator. Clean!Here’s mine. The stock C-code 289 fully balanced and meticulously assembled with a lot of carefully hidden modern speed equipment thrown in for good measure. Not exactly a sleeper, because a HiPo 289 was never a joke, but there’s way more there than you’d notice at first glance.
Believe it or not though, I’m getting ready to completely redo it...
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+1 on the Dynomax Race bullets. No need to imagine the sound. Though as I’m sure @silverblueBP can attest to, they sound WAY better at full song!
Bullitt Mustang Walk-Around Video