1 piece unit, much sturdier than the stock bracing. Sometimes very easy to install other times not. Best suggestion is to place car on jackstands to let the front sag, then install. Also may need to force shock towers out.
1966 Red Conv (200)
1966 White Pony Int.(289)A Code
1966 Coupe (289) C Code
The hardest part about installing the export brace in mine was scraping out the old firewall to cowl seem sealer that had been applied more liberally than mascara on Tammy-Fae.
I did it while the car was on stands and would advise doing the same. It's scary how much the door/fender gap increases at the top when you do so! When puting the export brace in, I gooped a bunch of seam sealer between the metal to prevent any water from getting trapped in there. It's not really a trouble area but worth doing I think.
I'm a fan of black as well.
"...your son has The Knack. It's a rare condition characterized by an extreme intuition about all things mechanical and electrical ... and utter social ineptitude."
"Can he lead a normal life?"
"No. He'll be an engineer."
Unless you car has ever had the front end "rearranged". My was when the car was just a year old. Consequently, I had to fabricate a tool to force the shock towers apart more than gravity was willing to help out with. Once I had spread the towers, the brace fell right into place. After that, getting the back holes to lign up required using a psuedo crow bar (big ass screwdriver). Lots of fun!
Shannon a.k.a. The ShanMan! /forums/images/icons/cool.gif
66' Vintage Burgundy C-code coupe
I might add that on my export T-5 there is an L shaped brace welded to the cowl and the export brace is then bolted to this brace. This provide additional support. The export brace was required in order for Ford to export the car to Germany. Shelby's also incorperated the export brace as well.