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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thinking about buying a 69' mach 1 with a 428 cobra jet motor. As far as what i've been told, what is not original is the interior which used to be red and the hood with the shaker. Has a mardi report that comes with it.
Also, it will eventually need a paint job, maybe sooner than later

Any help is much appreciated
 

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Buy it.
Drive it.
Looove it.
 

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As far as what it's worth, no idea. What is the asking price?

If I were to buy it, I'd drive it as is while making a game plan/securing parts for turning it back to stock interior and taking care of any of the the little fiddly-bits it needs. Then paint back to stock color.

Best of luck

John
 

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1967 GT500
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It will need some TLC real soon with that rust starting to pop. Also new paint job. Still probably worth $70k or so though. Restored are going for around $110k now
 

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You should go to the For Sale section of this forum and look at the asking prices of CJ Mach 1's.
Then you should go to BAT and do a search for 1969 Mustangs and see the "Sold" prices.

Then you should compare the cars that sold for 50K- 80K and compare to what you are buying.

IMO -- I was thinking 45K for this car. By the time you fix the rust (which means paint) and interior you will have 70K + invested. (and the original motor is long gone)
At the 70K point you are getting into really nice driver level CJ mustangs.

When you get over 100K the devil is in the details (MCA certification), and typically they are numbers matching cars which this one will never be.

To me this is the perfect car to have fun with -- Get it at a fair price, fix it as you go, have fun on Friday Nights. (There are plenty of these out there-- don't rush into buying one)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
As far as what it's worth, no idea. What is the asking price?

If I were to buy it, I'd drive it as is while making a game plan/securing parts for turning it back to stock interior and taking care of any of the the little fiddly-bits it needs. Then paint back to stock color.

Best of luck

John
The exterior color is original color but like in the pic's, will need a paint job at some point. Not sure what all it would entail to get the interior back to original red, even though I like the black
 

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The rear spoiler is not original.

Are you sure it is a CJ from the VIN?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You should go to the For Sale section of this forum and look at the asking prices of CJ Mach 1's.
Then you should go to BAT and do a search for 1969 Mustangs and see the "Sold" prices.

Then you should compare the cars that sold for 50K- 80K and compare to what you are buying.

IMO -- I was thinking 45K for this car. By the time you fix the rust (which means paint) and interior you will have 70K + invested. (and the original motor is long gone)
At the 70K point you are getting into really nice driver level CJ mustangs.

When you get over 100K the devil is in the details (MCA certification), and typically they are numbers matching cars which this one will never be.

To me this is the perfect car to have fun with -- Get it at a fair price, fix it as you go, have fun on Friday Nights. (There are plenty of these out there-- don't rush into buying one)
I will look at BAT since I didn't know you can sell at old sale's.

Why are you thinking the original motor is gone? (I'm new to the whole classic mustang world)
 

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VIN # 9F02Q146972 says it is a 428CJ and the Marti report(wonder if it can be forged)
The Q code is definitely a CJ. It is not worth as much as an R code but still has a good price.

It is surely worth $60k in its current condition. Assuming the floors, frames, etc are not gone.
 

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I should add that for a high value car you need to check everything carefully. A car of this value could be a rebody. Check sheet metal date codes against the Marti report build date. Check the hidden VIN's for correctness.
 

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You want some solid opinions ? Check with the guys at the CJ Registry. Brian
 

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How would you check if it still has the original motor?
The block is stamped with at least a partial VIN. I don't know where they are on the big blocks but on the small blocks it was at the rear of the block on a pad just behind the intake.
 

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Vin is supposed to be stamped on the rear of the block just below the drivers side cylinder head. BUT, a lot of them got stamped on the cylinder head. After a repair or a rebuild that VIN can appear on the FRONT of the passenger cylinder head.
 

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The car has staggered rear shocks so the Q (non- Shaker) appears to be correct with the 4 speed trans. As I understand it a Q or R code ordered with the C6 automatic did not get the staggered shocks.
I see some serious rust in the doors. It appears that one of them is actually de-laminating. If the door rust is that bad I'd be seriously concerned about the rest of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The car has staggered rear shocks so the Q (non- Shaker) appears to be correct with the 4 speed trans. As I understand it a Q or R code ordered with the C6 automatic did not get the staggered shocks.
I see some serious rust in the doors. It appears that one of them is actually de-laminating. If the door rust is that bad I'd be seriously concerned about the rest of the car.
Noticed that door where it seemed like it was splitting. Makes me wonder as well
 

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It looks like a good car but in need of restoration since all the tell tail signs of what is under the paint. You'd have to get it at a really good price to make the investment to restore worth while.
 
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