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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I currently have a little small 6 cylinder Motor in my 1966 Automatic Ford Mustang Coup. I am really getting tired of maxing out at 75 mph on the free way! It's getting old and it has a little clunk sound to it. I really want to do a total restoration on my Stang and turn it into a Hot Rod Pure Muscle Car! I want to soup my engine up as much as I can with top of the line parts for the cheapest I can get them. I have close to none experience about Motors but I have the willingness to learn and experiment. If you guys could tell me what's the biggest Motor that will fit in my Stang and how much I can soup it up and what's the Most Horse I can get out of it, That would be Awesome! When I start my stang up I want everyone to know im getting in my Car! I want my Stang to run at ease on the free way going 75 and have room to pill out! I was thinking hood scoop. You guy's are probably laughing at me but im totally serious, I have a job and have the money I just need some good input from you guy's because I know your experts. Please Help me, Give me some good tips.
Thank you.
 

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Um... the biggest that will fit with your budget is a small block ford windsor, either a 289/302/5.0L, or a 351w. A latemodel 5.0 would be a good start if you don't want to start opening up the engine for more expensive modifications, but the cheapest of all is probably to "use what you can get". Expect to spend $2k or so just to get a v8 in there.

Your going to have to replace all the suspension first, which won't be fun at all, then again... yeah it can be fun, just takes a lot of time/work/money/planning.

Btw, i believe the correct spellings are-> supe it up (not sure on this one, but i know soup sounds wrong ;) ), and peel out. ::
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I currently have 6 Thousand Dollars saved to invest into this Motor and I can get more. I didn’t mean it as if I was broke when I asked for the best parts for the cheapest price, it was in a form of if you knew a good place to buy. I was thinking a 289 Like totally fixed up with top of the line Dragging Parts. The inside and out side of my stang is going to be close to show quality and I want the engine to match as well as performance. I want my Stang to roar when I reeve it in park and I want it to take off like a bat out of hell when I floor it. I am going to do all the suspension for it and have to get a new rear end axle. Do you know if there is a good reliable trustworthy place on line of where I can order the 289 block brand new along with all the other parts? Im going to scrap the whole 6 cylinder set up and replace the whole thing totally. Thank you for your response.
 

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I suggest spending 6 months writing a detailed plan of what you want, every part you need, and how much its all going to cost. Engines go anywhere from $200 used, to $6000+ for a built up engine. You could easily spend your entire budget on engine parts alone because you get blinded by dollar signs that are misleading.

Things to consider:
manual or automatic transmission (your going to need a new one of those)
positraction rear?
fuel injected, or carb?
Cheap suspension, or good suspension? (If your going to replace it all... might as well only do it once)
Disc brakes? (You should! at least on the front).

There are all these considerations while your redoing practically everything.

Also, your car is going to have at least 2 weeks, to 3 years (or longer) of down time, depending on how much you plan. Not having a car to drive sucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hum, well that's the thing; I don’t know what are good parts for performance. What's the Best stuff? So many brands so many modles... Which has more performance and better power? When I said I know close to nothing about motors I wasn’t kidding. If you could give me a list of good parts for a hot rod 289 suped up motor that would help big time. I got the money I just was wondering if you could lead me with it. I would probably be blinded by the dollar signs and just spend allot of money. That's why I need your help to save me from doing that. On the Automatic or Manual part, hum I don’t really know too much about manual. I don’t know how to drive Stick. Would a Manual pick up a whole lot faster then an Automatic? What are the Advantages and Disadvantages? On the Suspension part, I am going to put good suspension not cheap. About Disc.. Yes I am going to put Disc front and back. Yeah I know about the down time, I was thinking about just getting a motor rack and just building it on there in the mean time while I keep my 6 cylinder in my stang to keep commuting from home to work to college. Ill just build the whole thing on the Rack and just drop it in when im ready and complete. Thank you keep the posts coming!
 

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O/T last weekend I just missed V12 RR engined Mustang.
 

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Start figuring out the suspension/brakes first, the engine is the last bit to worry about :p
 

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Not that all of the information provided in this thread isn't valuable, but to answer your question about the biggest engine that will fit, that would be a 351C. However, in your case I wouldn't recommend going that route. A good 289/302/5.0 can make 350 hp, which is plenty for a street car. If you don't know what to do to the engine, I'd suggest buying a crate engine, which would save you a lot of work and research.
 

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How about stroking a 351W out to 408 or 427 ci. Try to contact dodgestang for his input into cost and performance.
 

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WEll, you could drop up to 5-6 large in a "complete" (with all appurtanences) 347 stroker. I have about 4500 in my 5.0 FRPP XE3 long block crate engine (list 3000) until I got everything on it I want. Then I added a T5z 5-speed bell housing and etceteras which added to that figure.

What the car can handle in physical size is a little different than what it can handle in terms of horsepower and torque. If you have an 8" rear end, with a good rebuilding using quality parts it may handle 350-400 flywheel hp depending on how you drive it and what size tires and how sticky they are...you may need a 9" if you want more power or intend on continually drag race the car, local to me 9" assemblies are going for 1200-2000 range (being this is a 6 cylinder car it may only be a 7.5" which would definitely need to be upgraded). If you have a 6-cylinder borg you may want to swap to a toploader tranny and if you have a toploader (by some miracle) you may want to consider a rebuild. The driveshaft may need to be gone over if it is tired and weak as well. Just remember you are dealing with a car that is 38 years old. I would ask the following questions first.

How is the uni body (not talking the physical body) and suspension. You may want to check your frame rails, floor pans, and all the typical places these cars rust (at most notably the cricial places) prior to sinking money into a hi-power engine.

If those check out move on to your brakes. Do you have front discs or drums? If you have drums plan on an upgrade to handle the power. If you have a weak suspension plan on upgrading that as well. When you drop in a new engine plan on new headers and exhaust system, 2-1/2" mandrel bent is typical. Is your engine bay detailed? You may want to spend some time and money cleaning that up as well. How is your fuel line and fuel tank? If it is original or 5/16" you may want to upgrade to a new 3/8" line. Same thing with your brake lines and hoses, you may want to be certain they are capable. 6 cylinder mustangs also came with 4 lug hubs and wheels. Most performance upgrades for these cars require (and original V8 mustangs came with)5 lug hubs, rotors and wheels. you also need engine mounts and will have to add a second exhaust hanger inside the car and under the rear seat to install a dual exhaust.

AS you can see it all snowballs. Some folks here on the board have a plan as one member noted above. Some of use are pre-emptive and when restoring a car, we restore a car by replacing all the critical pieces. Others drive the car and wait for things to break (a very small percentage).

What you bought into here is a lifestyle with this car, and nothing is cheap nor cost effective. Old cars require a lot of your time, money, forsight and perseverance.

And just remember, nothing goes as smoothly nor quickly as it does on TV.
 

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Quite honestly before I would put the money out to upgrade the car from the I6 to V8 I would sell the I6 car and find a nice V8 car. I'm not sure about the condition of your car but lets say you get $4,000 for it. For $10,000 I've seen some pretty nice V8 coupe mustangs. I bought mine for $6,000 (Could have gotten it for less...) and the car had a complete suspension restoration. My car needed some things but if I didn't go nuts like I did...for 4,000 I would have had a very dependable car for 10,000.

Changing a I6 to V8 car is a lot more work than even the people that have done it will care to admit ;).
 

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8 inch rear housing, pumpkin, seals, and bearings $800
New stock type v8 suspension $1,000
V8 Spindles $250
c4 Tranny $600
Wheel and Tires $1,200
Stainless Steel Disc Brake upgrade for front $900
Incidentals $500
Total $5,250


Granted this is a rough estimate for buying good quality new parts to convert the car to a v8 car. The I6 cars have a small rear end and tranny that will not take the abuse of a healthy V8. Additionally the front end has 4 lug spindles that are lighter weight than the 5 lug V8 spindles. So when you put a v8 in the car you need to swap in the new spindles and rear, which means your old tires and wheels won't work since you now have a 5 lug car. I estimated for nice new wheels and tires, you could shop around a save a bit there. You will also need to rebuild/replace the lighter weight suspension components. I estimated for a 'big kit' that will also include the steering parts you will need. I also took the liberty of recommending a SSBC front disc upgrade for stopping performance since you will also need to find v8 front drums it just seemed a good thought to throw that in there instead. You can same a LITTLE by going with a Grenada front disc setup, but I personally prefer the SSBC, I think it is overall a better direction and easier to boot.

As you can see just preparing the car using rough estimates puts the budget just above 5k before you even bought the motor. However, I believe you can assemble a nice little v8 for $2500 or less.

3 routes to go on this one as I see it considering you ability level

1. Late model mustang 5.0 wrecked with low mileage, pull it out of the junker (you can even steal the tranny too which might save you some dough) and install it in you car. Ditch the EFI since you are not the most mechanical person and put a nice Performer RPM, Carb, and mechanical fuel pump and you are good to go.

2. Second route would be to pay attention to the classifieds here, in the local paper and on ebay and purchase a motor that is fully assembled and running (notice I did not say crate motor). Local machine shops, part time engine builders and people with wrecked cars have to sell very low to no mileage motors all the time, but it is a question of being in the right place at the right time.

3. Locate a good core at a junkyard or via classifieds and pay local machine shop to rebuild the motor to slightly warmer than spec. Put in a nice little cam, good intake and carb, and you will have a nice little performing V8.

One thing to remember though (just as an FYI), if you put 8k into an I6 car, its still going to be an I6 car and you will not be able to sell it for 8k more just because it now has a v8 in it. You will not be building this car to ever get your money back out of it.

By far the CHEAPEST way to convert a car to a v8 car is to purchase a second mustang that has been totaled in some way that has a good v8 and driveline components and trasfer the usable stuff over to the I6 car. This process is getting much harder since there seems to be so many people out there that think their rusted out and totalled POS that just so happens to run is worth $25k (sarcasm in case you missed it).

And lastly the FASTEST way to convert your I6 into a V8 is to sell it and buy a 'c' code that came with the v8 originally. It is also usually the least expensive long term.

Good luck on your endevour. My first mustang was a 1967 Fastback that had originally been an I6 and was converted to a v8 with a hot little 351w in it ;)

I miss that car :(
 

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dodgestang's got some good advice there...

my car was originally a 6 cylinder that the PO changed mostly everything and did a pretty decent job, i just had to finish it. be careful not to bite off more then you can chew, as far as time and money.

btw, i got some v8 drums (2.5" wide) i just took off, free for the taking (+shipping)...
 

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Saw a Rolls Royce Merlin Inline 16 (?) engine out of a 1944 P51 Mustang fighter plane shoved into a 1966 Mustang Fastback. Car was cut between the firewall and shock towers and lengthened. Engine was governed to 2100 RPM, and I have NO IDEA what transmission was used. I've always felt he won the big engine competition.
 

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The 351C will not fit into your engine bay without adjusting the shock towers, it is a little wider than the 351W. The 351W is the biggest without doing any modification to the engine bay. You will need some headers that will fit on that and if you want some quality performance parts, look into Edelbrock, they make some good parts for cheap because of mass production. If you can, in the May 2004 issue of Mustang and Fords it has a engine build up guide with the 302, 351C, 351W, and a 428CJ. Also in the September issue of Mustang and Fords it has an engine fitment guide complete with weight of all the engines that will fit into an early Mustang.
 

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Also, when you sink all the money into the engine, please give me your number. I do a small business in buying wrecked Mustang's where the owner put all the money into making it go fast (engine) and nothing into the keeping it there (suspension) or stopping it (brakes) :eek:
 

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Mind if I ask how old you are? judging from your lack of overall automotive knowledge (and the fact that you can't drive a stick), I'm guessing you're still quite young. Perhaps the highest-horsepower, ground-pounding, muscle car isn't best suited for you...

At any rate - your money would be better spent simply buying a V8 car to start with (rather than converting a 6 banger).
 

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I had the same question back in 1980. I saw a '65 fastback at the 1981 Car Craft Nationals with a Cleveland in it. In 1984 I put a C in my '64 Falcon Ranchero and never looked back. The same motor is in our '65 coup. It doesn't cost any more to put a C in than any other motor and they look a lot better under the hood than a windsor in my opinion.
http://home.earthlink.net/~myradpc/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/turn71.jpg

John
 

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Hey, I was at the '81 Street Machine Nationals!
Sorry, but I don't remember seeing you there! ::
 
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