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Discussion Starter #1
So I finally got my 67 coupe together and running after about 19 years. The car has a 331, T5 and a Detroit locker diff with 3:89 gears. The suspension is from Mustangs Plus. The rear suspension has the 5 leaf springs with the mid-eye front mount. The rear shackles have poly bushings and there’s also a 7/8 rear sway bar. The car has some serious wheelhop under wot in 1st and 2nd. It’s not a drag car, but I want it to do nice clean no-hop burnouts, or just hook. 1st gear is pretty much worthless as far as traction is concerned.

What have y’all done to fix wheelhop in our early Mustangs?
 

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As mentioned, Traction bars would be the least expensive and most effective device. Summit Racing® Traction Bars SUM-770501

I installed Traction Master Under Ride bars, many do not like them stating binding issues. I have had no problems with them for the year that I have had them on the car. These are a little more expensive, require welding but as less visible.

I hope to give them a little workout at the 2020 PITS little Auto-X event.
741086
741087
 

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I remember years ago I did a 2D computer simulation of the rear axle and leaf spring to simulate wheel hop on my Mustang. It was hilarious to watch the spring wrap up like spaghetti and the axle hop up and down like a basket ball... hilarious to watch on the computer screen, but oh so violent when you are in the car thinking the rear axle is gonna fly through the trunk!

I originally installed the shelby underride traction bars. Then proceeded to tear the front mount in two. I then switched to a damped telescoping type of my own design very similar to the slide-a-link type bars, and haven't had any issues since. The underride style traction bars need a soft bushing to allow the axle to move up and down without binding, but a stiff bushing to keep the axle from twisting under heavy acceleration... so you have to sacrifice one for the other with that type of bar. A slapper bar would work fine, but they can be unsightly. A half leaf would also work well, but may not be enough depending on how much power and traction you are dealing with. The telescoping type is adjustable (preload, over all shock load) but is pricey and might be way overkill depending on the planned usage of your Mustang. There are many ways to skin this cat, so your intended use, budget, and bling factor all come into play. Choose wisely ;)
 

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^^^^that should be the first consideration. What are the #rates of these "MustangPlus" springs? 125# or maybe a bit more if lucky? Plus any rubber deflection. If MM considers 165# as "race" then I am very happy with my SD springs listed as 155#, Heco en Indio and under $200. Prol 50% less power than the OP but I felt like I could rip out the entire rear on the old OE leafs.
 

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Old school slappers

They go around corners too
Yeah, lot of more elegant, modern solutions but they still work, are much quicker to install and cheaper than other solutions. I ran them on very warmed over Boss 351 and they made BIG difference.
 

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@Huntingky so what happened to the Boss?
Divorce and life in general. Made a choice between it and the 65. 65 had the sentimental value, was less temperamental and over all more fun. That built motor sounded like a lot of fun in the beginning but the reality was it expensive to put hi dollar octane booster (the real stuff) in a car that got 12 MPG. It liked to blow header gaskets. Competition clutch and pressure plate that was a left leg workout. Sometimes I want to kick myself for letting it go but the guy that got it and restored it to factory was much more knowledgeable and had the tools to do it and the humbling harsh reality is that the 21 year old kid I was at the time wasn't ready for a project like that.
 

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I have yet to drive the car, but I put in some CalTracs with the hopes of minimizing wheel hop. Have a 408 stroker in a convertible with AODE and 9" 3.5 rear end
741212
 

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I haven’t personally used them but the number of people running and recommending Caltracs is crazy, they’re very popular.
 

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If you are cheap (and poor) you can also engineer a reasonable facsimile of them for much cheaper with help from the mighty Google.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for the replies everybody, been down with the flu.

I’ve always liked the vintage look of slapper bars. Any time I see a guy roll up in a leaf spring car with a set of Caltrac bars it’s usually a sign the car is fast. I was hoping to keep the car as sleepy as possible, but like someone above said, ‘it feels like the diff is going to come through the floor”.

Second question: what’s everybody’s opinion on pinion angle? What’s an ideal range to be in?
 
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