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Discussion Starter #1
How long does the upper control arms need to be in relation to the lowers?
 

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I guess it would depend on where your mounting points are at. It's the angles that is more important than length. The Fox/SN95 uppers also come adjustable for extremely lowered cars since really lowered cars tend to push the snout down creating D/S vibrations.
FWIW, there has beem MUCH discussion on the front bushings on the lower arms put out by the aftermarket. If you look at stock bushings they are not round but oval or diamond shaped. this is due to the axle actually pushing forward on one side when the car is in a turn up a hill at an angle. Such as pulling into a steep driveway. I've been running aftermarkets for a couple of years now and have not noticed a problem, yet. And my house has a steep driveway.
 

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As for bushings, yes, in the oblique 4-link design you MUST HAVE compliant bushings in the upper links and in the fronts of the lowers. OE rubber, or at least something that's free in rotation like a spherical bearing or a Currie Johnny Joint. Hard bushings mean lots of bind and unpredictable roll stiffness and maybe broken arms.

I'm not quite sure why one would want to build an oblique 4-link like the Fox anyway, the little tiny upper links result in pretty compromised suspension geometry for floorpan-packaging reasons (and all the damn Foxes crack at the upper link mounts, the lower link mounts, the seat track mounts, blah blah blah...)

There are better Satchell link designs out there (the GM A/B-car designs) that use longer upper arms but the basic layout is not as good as a 3-link or parallel 4-link with Panhard or Watts for lateral location, you're always going to have a certain amount of slop in your lateral axle location.

If you're going to start from scratch you might as well do a 3-link or torque arm. The Australian Falcons from the late '70s up through '98 (when even the taxicab/rental-grade versions went IRS) had a beautiful parallel 4-link with Watts that worked beautifully; Ford has NEVER had a stick-axle suspension that good in the US. The Detroit Speed GM retrofit 4-links use slightly angled upper arms and a Panhard for lateral location:

http://detroitspeed.com/1967-1969 Camaro-Firebird-Products/041701-quadralnk.html

If you really want to dive in to something like this, there's some cheap suspension-design software out there that works, and you probably need to be spelunking around over at pro-touring.com and corner-carvers.com (particularly with the latter site make sure you do your homework, lots of good info but also a few folks who carry the flamethrower ready for those asking questions that push their hot-buttons...) This is a non-trivial project that'll likely require a little experimentation to get it right.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Let me back up a moment. This is going into a truck so the cracking of the torque boxes is moot.

Im using a Rod ends with a swedge steel tube. The rear end that I bought on Ebay already has the mounts welded on the top of the pumpkin housing, and the lower ends of the housing.

All I have to do is measure the bottom mounts to where the leaf springs bolted, then install my new arms there, then I will have to make a crossmember for the top arms to attach from the upper 9 inch housing.

I will be using the Shockwave type air shocks which are like coil over shocks as well.

Hope this clears up the, why, of wanting to do something like a Fox type setup, as everything is nearly done if I do it this way. If I do something else I would have to cut and weld on the housing which would most likely warp it.

Also I do plan on making a watts link as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've considered going to the "Corner Carvers" site, but after lurking on there just a bit, I just don't think I would fit in there.
 

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i have pics of my rear 4 link on the sig file-- you can see how the arms are done
 

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i have pics of my rear 4 link on the sig file-- you can see how the arms are done
Have you had an opportunity to drive the car with that suspension setup under it? I wasn't sure from your website if the car was running yet. Great job on the suspension as well as the rest of the car.

Thanks,
Chris
 
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