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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am wondering when you know it's time to do a front suspension rebuild? When I'm turning in my 65 (especially during "spirited driving") I get some clicking/popping noise from the front suspension. I'm not really sure how to be more specific than this.

I bought this car only about 18 months ago so I really have no idea when or if the front suspension was last rebuilt. It appears that the rear leaf springs are fairly new however.

Any advice on the topic would be appreciated!
 

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Take a good look at all your suspension points such as anywhere there is a rubber bushing, lower control arm, etc. You can easily see if the bushings are dry rotted and cracking, oil soaked and squeezing out.

Also look at the ball joints/tie rods, try greasing them and see if it come squeezing out of every crevace, boots may be split/dry rotted. I would guess a popping on turning would be the lower/upper ball joints.

Turn the wheel all the way to one side and get your head in the wheel well and take a good look from that side also. Mine were obvious, it was all 40+yrs. old original...
Jon
 

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Meyer65 said:
I bought this car only about 18 months ago so I really have no idea when or if the front suspension was last rebuilt.
IMO if you don't know anything about the history of the suspension then the best thing to do is to replace EVERYTHING. Steering stuff also. That way you only do one alignment. Also if you try to piecemeal it and miss one bad part then it affects your steering an handling.

I find that most people who have "problems" with the handling and ride of the stock setup have never driven one with everything new. I would also have the steering box rebuilt (stangerssite.com) while you are at it. And use Opentracker roller spring perches.
 

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While it may look fearsome, the entire front suspension can be dropped by removing only a few nuts and bolts. Undo the 2 bolts holding in the shocks, undo the nuts holding in the upper control arms, remove the bolt holding in the lower control arm, remove the nuts holding everything to the spindles, unbolt the idler arm, unbolt the pitman arm, remove the nuts and bolts holding on the strut rods, support the spindles, and literally, you can drop the entire steering and suspension out as a big unit (caution on coil springs). Of the stuff that came out, almost all of it is wear parts, replace them as a batch, and stuff it all back up.

Rebuilding the steering gear box requires removing 3 nuts and 3 nut/bolt combinations.

Do a brake job in conjunction, clean up the wheel wells, spindles, etc. and you have a nice looking front end, ready for many more years, and just have to get one alignment.

Except for having to send the steering box off for rebuild, this is a 1 day project when all the parts are purchased and ready to go.

If doing the gear box, pay the core charge, and then after removing the old box, return for the refund.

Bob
 

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Just for fun try removing the sway bar end links from and wire the sway bar up out of the way, then see if you still get the clicking sounds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I won't be rebuilding the steering box anytime soon because there is zero play in it and it appears to be in excellent working order.

As far as the suspension goes, would you recommend the suspension rebuild kit that includes the upper control arms, or just this kit? I would also get the roller spring perches as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Okay, upon further investigation (i.e. digging up the file the previous owner gave me) he purchased and installed American Pony's "Real Big Kit," which included everything necessary to rebuild the suspension. I also remember him mentioning that the suspension was rebuilt. I would like to stress that I have driven a number of these old Mustangs, and mine is by far the best handling/steering. The only issue is the popping sound.

So, any new thoughts here?
 

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180 Out said:
Just for fun try removing the sway bar end links from and wire the sway bar up out of the way, then see if you still get the clicking sounds.
I agree. My daily would *CLACK* every time you hit the brakes, or went over any kind of bumps, and it turns out there was well over 1" play in the end links.
 
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