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Discussion Starter #1
Parted with my '65 coupe to make room and build this '66 fastback from the ground up. Never taken on a project like this before so besides going back in time and not getting sucked in, where do I start?

She won't be a show car and won't ever be sold. What structures come first? What can be removed as a group...etc. What gets saved towards the end?

I'm not a pro, but I've got the basics down with a MIG. There also just happens to be a 351w also sitting in the garage, that's the direction I'm going. So any advice on extra support/structure is greatly appreciated.
 

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Pictures are too small to see very much. If it needs a lot of rust repair as in replacing the entire floor pan you may as well strip it down completely to a bare shell and work from the ground up as they say.
 

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I think that most people who have installed the full length floor pans on both sides regret that they didn't just buy the one piece complete floor pan and replace the entire floor.
 

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Parted with my '65 coupe to make room and build this '66 fastback from the ground up. Never taken on a project like this before so besides going back in time and not getting sucked in, where do I start?
Everything structural, which includes the quarter skin.


She won't be a show car and won't ever be sold. What structures come first?
Whatever is the worst.

What can be removed as a group.
Nothing. Each component should be replaced one at a time, to maintain maximum dimensional stability. That's why you do one at a time, worst part first. The biggest assembly I'd use is a fender apron/rail, and you'd leave the rad support and suspension bracket on the car while doing it. Also, a high-quality export brace should be on the car at all times.
What gets saved towards the end?
Anything cosmetic.
I'm not a pro, but I've got the basics down with a MIG. There also just happens to be a 351w also sitting in the garage, that's the direction I'm going. So any advice on extra support/structure is greatly appreciated.
Add front torque boxes, and Traction Masters™. You're going to need them. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
22GT, where are you in PA? And are you referring to the shock tower/front apron assemblies putting them in one side at a time?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If front frame and rear frame are equal in poor condition, is there a preference where to start first?
 

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It would likely be beneficial for you to build a jig (or rotisserie) that will ensure that all of the dimensions of the car are properly retained. That way you can replace bits and pieces and make sure that everything still lines up right. That's how my car was done when we had to chop off the entire rear end.

I'd start frame first, firewall/floors second, trunk/wheelhouses/front end third, quarters last.
 

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I think that most people who have installed the full length floor pans on both sides regret that they didn't just buy the one piece complete floor pan and replace the entire floor.
I agree.

I did the 1 piece floorpan in my 1970 Sportsroof. I was so glad I did that instead of the right and left side pans. It wasn't hard to do at all. Just a lot of spot welds to drill out. This was my first time doing metal work.




 

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I am at this stage in my build right now. Working a 1967 Mustang Coupe. You really need to strip the whole car down to find out what needs replaced. That way you can come up with a plan of attack and do one piece at a time to maintain dimensions. You can search for dimensions for your ride online. Adding some rigidity to the car while replacing certain items is a good idea. It was suggested to me that when I replace my firewall and torque boxes, that I weld 1" square tubing from the roof to the sides of the radiator support for a little extra support. Also, if you know the body is square, put it up on jack stands and take measurements (frame to floor, spring tower to opposite corner of radiator support, and so on) and mark the car what that measurement was so when things go back together they are in the right spot. When you purchase your metal, price compare between cj ponys, mustangs unlimited, and mustang depot. MU had side cowling that was the same thing but for $20s less that MD.

It all sounds intimidating, but if you take your time and plan ahead it will make it easier. Also, don't skimp on the metal prep. It will make welding much easier with good contacts. I just started shaving my drip rails and am having a ton of fun doing it. Most of the work is prepping the metal and lining it up.

This guy (jodaddy):
does a great job explaining repairs on the old mustangs and how they were built. He is the one that suggested that I support the car with the 1" square tubing. Remember, research first then repair. You wouldn't cut something without measuring it first, right?

Stang
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Awesome. Thanks for the pictures and link. Are you referring to a brace from the top of the roof line all the way across where the hood would be, straight down the middle? Any other suggestions to brace the rear or the B pillars?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Another question, whats the best product to use as a rust inhibitor/rust protection for things that wont be seen, like inside frame rails, inside wheel wells, etc?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
One more question and thanks for the help thus far, its about the full front apron/shock tower assemblies. The car is pretty straight so would the easiest way cut out and line up one side at a time with the existing apron and rad support? or should they be done both at the same time?

Anybody have experience with those complete assemblies versus just patching or fixing the spots that need to be repaired?

And should this all be done before front torque boxes or can it be done after?
 

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Mike,

I would replace one piece at a time if you can. If your front clip is straight and square then you should be able to remove one side and install, for example, a whole frame rail and then get the measurements back to what they were before and tac weld it in place. Double check everything prior to finish welding. I have not a lot of experience doing this kind of work but I have been doing research for months and this is the route I would take. I have been welding for years so I can trust that. All of the above suggestions should be used. Next week I will start ordering new metal for the front of the car and work my way towards the back.
 
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