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Like I mentioned earlier I don't know what's on there just that they are not original. Some PO swapped out the original drum for this setup.

I do like this idea...everything I need including dual bowl MC (I have single now)...Ford Kelsey-Hayes Type 4 Piston Caliper Manual Disc Brake Kit V8 - Manual or Power
I think what others have said is that you already have K-H 4 piston calipers with 2-piece rotors. Just get new rotors, rebuild the calipers and install good pads. Best of luck.
 

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Like I mentioned earlier I don't know what's on there just that they are not original. Some PO swapped out the original drum for this setup.

I do like this idea...everything I need including dual bowl MC (I have single now)...Ford Kelsey-Hayes Type 4 Piston Caliper Manual Disc Brake Kit V8 - Manual or Power
That's been on there A LONG TIME.
As others have mentioned, it's all you need unless you're club racing or exclusively doing auto-x or open track, etc.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 

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Like I mentioned earlier I don't know what's on there just that they are not original. Some PO swapped out the original drum for this setup.
They may not be original to the car, but its the Kelsey-Hayes (K/H) disc brake setup that was mounted by the factory on early Mustangs and Shelbys.
 

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Like I mentioned earlier I don't know what's on there just that they are not original. Some PO swapped out the original drum for this setup.

I do like this idea...everything I need including dual bowl MC (I have single now)...Ford Kelsey-Hayes Type 4 Piston Caliper Manual Disc Brake Kit V8 - Manual or Power
I think what others have said is that you already have K-H 4 piston calipers with 2-piece rotors. Just get new rotors, rebuild the calipers and install good pads. Best of luck.
i just noticed the picture you provided, you already have the good set up. you just need to rebuild what you have, upgrade thee pads, and upgrade the master cylinder, and perhaps the rear brakes, and you are done with the brakes.

like i mentioned, back in the day shelby used the stock front disc brakes, upgraded the rear brakes to the ten inch diameter 2 1/2" wide brake shoes, and upgraded the lining material to a semi metallic material, and his drivers beat the snot out of those brakes with few failures.

these days i would suggest going with the more modern F150 rear brakes with 11" drums and 2 1/4" shoes if you want to maintain the vintage look, but still be able to find parts easily. use the a fore mentioned porterfield pads and shoes, or check out the EBC yellow stuff pads and shoes.

as to the master cylinder upgrade, you have a number of options. the nice thing about ford master cylinders is that they all use the same bolt pattern through the late 90s, cars and trucks, so find a dual master cylinder you like, and it will bolt to the stock location. you will need to deal with the pushrod, bore size, and running lines, but those are easy.
 

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Like I mentioned earlier I don't know what's on there just that they are not original. Some PO swapped out the original drum for this setup.

I do like this idea...everything I need including dual bowl MC (I have single now)...Ford Kelsey-Hayes Type 4 Piston Caliper Manual Disc Brake Kit V8 - Manual or Power
Whether your brakes are original to the car, I do not know. But they are OEM factory Kelsey/Hayes four-piston Mustang disc brakes. What makes you think they are not original?

You said
"The plan is to have a nice weekend driver, maybe a couple cruise-ins and/or local shows. The car will have a little more zip than normal but nothing outrageous."

I have the same brakes on my car, which is equipped with a balanced and blueprinted 289 High Performance engine. I have run the car at time trial and autocross events with excellent brake performance.

I'm also confused- The kit you linked above,
" I do like this idea...everything I need including dual bowl MC (I have single now)...Ford Kelsey-Hayes Type 4 Piston Caliper Manual Disc Brake Kit V8 - Manual or Power " is the exact same brakes you have now.

Possibly you need to recondition the calipers. You may also need to recondition the proportioning valve. A relatively inexpensive do-it-yourself item. Frozen caliper pistons, or malfuntioning proportioning valve can reduce brake function drastically. I once pulled a fantastic restored 66 K code GT out of storage, and went over it for the owner. Changed all the fluids, etcetera, took it for a road test. Discovered quickly that the valve was stuck, which meant the front discs were doing almost nothing. Rebuilt that little sucker, and it would stop on a dime.

If the rotors are not worn below limits, and are not warped, re-use them. The 65-67 fixed-caliper rotors should not be cut, however.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Whether your brakes are original to the car, I do not know. But they are OEM factory Kelsey/Hayes four-piston Mustang disc brakes. What makes you think they are not original?

You said
"The plan is to have a nice weekend driver, maybe a couple cruise-ins and/or local shows. The car will have a little more zip than normal but nothing outrageous."

I have the same brakes on my car, which is equipped with a balanced and blueprinted 289 High Performance engine. I have run the car at time trial and autocross events with excellent brake performance.

I'm also confused- The kit you linked above,
" I do like this idea...everything I need including dual bowl MC (I have single now)...Ford Kelsey-Hayes Type 4 Piston Caliper Manual Disc Brake Kit V8 - Manual or Power " is the exact same brakes you have now.

Possibly you need to recondition the calipers. You may also need to recondition the proportioning valve. A relatively inexpensive do-it-yourself item. Frozen caliper pistons, or malfuntioning proportioning valve can reduce brake function drastically. I once pulled a fantastic restored 66 K code GT out of storage, and went over it for the owner. Changed all the fluids, etcetera, took it for a road test. Discovered quickly that the valve was stuck, which meant the front discs were doing almost nothing. Rebuilt that little sucker, and it would stop on a dime.

If the rotors are not worn below limits, and are not warped, re-use them. The 65-67 fixed-caliper rotors should not be cut, however.
Thanks for the info and advice from all!!. Looks like I'll do a refurbish of what I have now. The rotors are pretty worn so I'll get new rotors, new pads, SS brake lines. I have a dual bowl MC already so that won't be an issue. The reason I believe these aren't original is because of the distribution valve and proportioning valve install. Looks like a "side of the road" job. See pix. You'll notice the infamous mounting method of a nylon tie on the proportioning valve. :poop:
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it also looks like an aftermarket adjustable valve as well. grab one from a 67-70 mustang and plumb that in. NPD has everything you need

calipers and rotors, and brake lines


proportioning valve

 

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I have a dual bowl MC already so that won't be an issue. The reason I believe these aren't original is because of the distribution valve and proportioning valve install .
It all look to be the correct factory parts for the KH disc brakes. Are you sure it's a dual bowl MC? The small part shown on the pics looks like the stock single MC for disc, yes that one have 2 outputs.
 

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It all look to be the correct factory parts for the KH disc brakes. Are you sure it's a dual bowl MC? The small part shown on the pics looks like the stock single MC for disc, yes that one have 2 outputs.
I agree completely, just because some joker put a zip tie on the proportioning valve means nothing. The valve, the distribution block and where they are mounted, the steel lines (except the lower MC line, an obvious replacement), and large single bowl master cylinder just scream "factory installed" to me, and I've worked on, easily, hundreds of these cars. And FWIW, I was an MCA certified judge for 65-66 Mustangs.
 

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Looks like a factory "adjustable" KH proportioning valve, used on early Mustangs and on '65-'68 Corvette ordered with a heavy duty brake option.

It all look to be the correct factory parts for the KH disc brakes. Are you sure it's a dual bowl MC? The small part shown on the pics looks like the stock single MC for disc, yes that one have 2 outputs.
Strangely, the 65-66 Mustang and Corvette had the same master cylinder and proportioning valve. Even the Delco Moraine Corvette calipers were nearly identical to the Kelsey Hayes calipers used on the Mustang.
 

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Strangely, the 65-66 Mustang and Corvette had the same master cylinder and proportioning valve. Even the Delco Moraine Corvette calipers were nearly identical to the Kelsey Hayes calipers used on the Mustang.
Disc's was kind of new tech in the mid 60s, the engineers probably only had a very limited range of parts to choose from, so some of the same brake parts was used by GM and Ford. The KH disc brake setup was also used on A-body cars from Chrysler.
 

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Thanks for the info and advice from all!!. Looks like I'll do a refurbish of what I have now. The rotors are pretty worn so I'll get new rotors, new pads, SS brake lines. I have a dual bowl MC already so that won't be an issue. The reason I believe these aren't original is because of the distribution valve and proportioning valve install. Looks like a "side of the road" job. See pix. You'll notice the infamous mounting method of a nylon tie on the proportioning valve. :poop:
View attachment 756702 View attachment 756703
That stuff may have been added to your car but it's the same OE equipment that was used when a disc car went down the assembly line.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 
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Thanks for the info and advice from all!!. Looks like I'll do a refurbish of what I have now. The rotors are pretty worn so I'll get new rotors, new pads, SS brake lines. I have a dual bowl MC already so that won't be an issue. The reason I believe these aren't original is because of the distribution valve and proportioning valve install. Looks like a "side of the road" job. See pix. You'll notice the infamous mounting method of a nylon tie on the proportioning valve. :poop:
Don't know what you know, so excuse the simplistic information. For 66 V8s the spindle was exactly the same part for drum and disc brakes. Your PO might have removed the drum brakes and installed factory disc brakes. This is a rather simple bolt-on change. There are, however, differences with the brake lines, both the metal line and the hoses (IIRC), as the drum brake cylinders and disc brake calipers have their fittings in different locations. There might also be differences with the master cylinder. Just a "heads up." One never knows exactly what a PO did to the car!
 

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If you need to also put $ into your MC or hard lines, using Granada calipers might save you some $ over name brand calipers.

But I don’t know if Granada calipers can just bolt up to Mustang spindles? (I’m sure someone will chime in...)

Case in point, my car came with Granada spindles and Granada calipers plus a 2nd pair of new in box Bendix made Granada calipers. Also it had a Wilwood proportioning valve and a leaky OEM Ford 15/16” master cylinder (and likely sludge in the hard lines).

I’m replacing most of the brake system with all new NPD stainless pre-bent hard lines (~$100), a Wilwood 15/16” master cylinder ($180), Bendix Granada calipers ($0 free for me), Porterfield pads ($80), Street or Track braided steel Granada lines ($75), and Raybestos R Line vented Granada rotors ($75).

For ~$500, I feel like I’m getting a lot of decent performing brake components for the money,
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Well...now for a different dilemma...I believe I have two different rotors. It looks like I have a "one piece rotor" on pass side (the one that's off) and a "two-piece rotor" on the driver side.
Are my eyes deceiving me or am I correct?
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You are correct.
Odds are good that the 1-piece design is the updated unit. (replacing the OE 2-piece)

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1991-1995
 

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Yes. You have a new style rotor with an integral hub on the passenger side and an old style rotor with removable hub on the driver side. As long as both rotors and hubs are in good working condition your car will drive and brake normally.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Yes. You have a new style rotor with an integral hub on the passenger side and an old style rotor with removable hub on the driver side. As long as both rotors and hubs are in good working condition your car will drive and brake normally.
Both rotors are shot, grooved, and beyond tolerances so I'm getting new ones.
 
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