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Discussion Starter #1
Feeling a little more motivated to try and replace my clutch myself.

Last one was pretty new < 3k miles.

Need a recommendation for a 10” clutch for 289 mildly modded,

Nothing too crazy but something that can handle son (and dad) occasionally starting “quickly”.

Thanks Rodney
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks mustang Steve has already put in roller bearings:

Do I need a new flywheel? Or if it was new before can I just get it resurfaced?

Does installation of clutch release rod require taking out the steering column?
 

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Do I need a new flywheel? Or if it was new before can I just get it resurfaced?
How old is your flywheel? How many times has it been cut? Any cracks? There is a service limit for cutting them. Each time you cut the wheel the clutch assembly moves closer to the engine and away from the clutch fork fulcrum. At some point you will reach a point where the range of travel will be compromised and will not be able to fully disengage the clutch. When you start to weigh the cost of cutting the wheel and a new ring gear you’re going to be close in cost to that Speedway flywheel that is a quality billet steel SFI rated. I’m running that one and it’s a very well made flywheel. The safety of your feet are worth not taking a chance on a old cast iron flywheel IMO.
 

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I’m using a FMS King Cobra clutch kit only because it was free. Otherwise I would have used something like a Autozone or like my previous, a Rockauto close out special.
 

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Last year I also put in a new ram clutch like the one patrickstapler mentions. It works really well and is reasonably priced. As for doing the work yourself I had never even watched someone do this before and successfully got it done. As long as you have a good place to work on it and access to the tools you need and are mechanically inclined you can do it. With the internet and forums nowadays you can do almost anything if willing to put the time in researching, watching videos, etc. I did buy the $80 transmission lift from harbor freight and it worked just fine for my light 4 speed top loader.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Here is the update.

Wrestled the top loader out with minimal gear oil spillage. I did notice some motor oil on the bolts that hold it to the bell housing. Hope it isn’t a main seal problem because I had that replaced when my motor was rebuilt.

Didn’t get the bell housing off yet but did see lots of something burnt of the input splines to the top loader.

I’ll try and post some pics later when I remember how to upload them to google photos.

Thanks Rodney
 

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I'd put in a diaphragm clutch, not a 3-finger long throw clutch, much easier on the leg. And remove that huge "assist" spring under the dash.
I have the old 3-finger with a full roller/hemi-joint z-bar clutch mechanism from Opentracker (https://opentrackerracing.com/product/roller-z-bar-clutch-rods-big-block-v8-1967-1970-mustang/), removed the assist spring, and it is great.
Warning though, if you're going to use your old flywheel be sure the bolt patter for the new clutch pressure plate matches the bolt holes on the flywheel. There are three different patterns. New flywheels are usually machined with all three patterns giving you options.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Spent my Easter morning taking out the old clutch.

The good news is the bell housing seems fairly dry and not soaked in oil.

The bad news is that there was a ton of "burnt steel wool" type material which I assume is the old clutch pad.

What causes this and what are my next next steps?

Any advice to give to a 17 year old on how to do a proper burn out?

Thanks in advance. Rodney





 
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