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Discussion Starter #1
I plan to get rid of my jelly jar and get a dual master cylinder while I change out the fluid. What year and which cars will have the MC I need for my 66? Also, I plan to keep the drums for the time being. Will I still need to get a prop valve?
 

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If there's any plan to put discs up front, I wonder if disc/drum MC would be the way to go. Maybe you can't do that. Obviously if you are not planning to go disc then just pick up a drum/drum MC.

I wouldn't think a prop valve is needed if you are not using discs. Hopefully others will chime in to help clarify which way you should go.
 
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You need a drum/drum cylinder from a 67 and you need to use your 66 pushrod. You can use the existing prop valve but you will need to tweak a couple lines
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the information. I will replace the front drums with disks in a few months, but want the dual MC now.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I remember reading that on here. Thanks for reminding me Midlife. I also went to the autozone web site and found that they sell the 67 MC for drum and another one for disc brakes, so that was a pretty good hint. I found a rebuilt drum MC at Autozone for 16.00 plus a 10.00 core charge. The new ones run near 80.00. Are the rebuilt ones as good as a new ones? Is there a drawback to getting a rebuilt one?
 

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Yeah, the drawbacks are poorer reliability/infant mortality. For stuff like brakes (safety critical), I would always buy new. Isn't your baby worth another $70?
 

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I have had to return several rebuilt master cylinders. I will always go with new parts when I can.

That is another good reason to bench bleed you master. It is much easier to return before it is installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What exactly is involved with a rebuild of a Master Cylinder? I guess what I am getting at is are those small non moving parts going to affect the reliability of the MC? I have no problem replacing the entire MC with a new one, but have a hard time understanding the thinking about replacing my jelly jar with a new two chamber if the rebuilt two chamber one will perform just as well as a new one at less than half the cost. Please educate me on the reasoning for purchasing a new one as opposed to a rebuilt one.
 
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here goes,

Rebuilders prize possesions are cores. Without cores they have nothing to rebuild. Because of this most will use cores that would generally be junk. Bores that are severly pitted, stripped threads etc. If they throw a core in the scrap pile that is money down the drain. I am in no way sayng that all rebuilt cylinders are junk. Its just like anything else say a carburetor. Sometimes they are good cores sometimes they are not. Say you just paid 40 dollars for what you thought was a good carb core. You get it home and find a crack or stripped threads. You have just lost 40 dollars plus your time. Rebuilders dont have/take the time to carefully examine each core. Make sense?
 

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cmayna said:
If there's any plan to put discs up front, I wonder if disc/drum MC would be the way to go. Maybe you can't do that. Obviously if you are not planning to go disc then just pick up a drum/drum MC.

I wouldn't think a prop valve is needed if you are not using discs. Hopefully others will chime in to help clarify which way you should go.
Can't do that. A disk/drum MC will have one large reservoir and one small (disks take more fluid to move). Also, you need a residual valve on each port that will service drums (disk brakes can't use a residual valve).

And, no, you don't really need a proportioning valve for drum/drum.

Playing devil's advocate, I'm sure that all the MC's in all 3 of our cars are rebuilt units, and they have all worked fine for many miles and years.
 
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